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Discussion Starter #1
350,000mi on my truck and boosting about 35 max psi for the last 200,000mi. Turbo bearing has started to get a little play in it. Just ordered the Barder Turbo Service "UPGRADED REBUILD KIT" with the 360deg thrust bearing. Anything else should I be doing while I have the turbo apart?

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Phillip
 

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Ebpv leaking? Delete it or get a deleted pedestal, it also makes turbo removal much easier. Could get the ww2 and 1.0 exhaust housing too.
 

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Ebpv leaking? Delete it or get a deleted pedestal, it also makes turbo removal much easier. Could get the ww2 and 1.0 exhaust housing too.
I've been without an ebpv for a decade or better. 1.0 housing wouldn't be big enough for what my truck is putting out...but what is the ww2 about?


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Phillip
 

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I've been without an ebpv for a decade or better. 1.0 housing wouldn't be big enough for what my truck is putting out...but what is the ww2 about?


Thanks,
Phillip
Quicker spooling, pulls harder up top is what I noticed when I put mine in. Still hazes at wot though with my 160/100s. Would probably be perfect with your baby swamps.
 

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1.0 A/R and Baby Swamps is ideal for a lot of applications and well worth the effort especially if your are already there. Ran it with both E40D and ZF in 97 with 140/146 swamps injectors and also in my 96 CC with Swamps Babies. Thinking the billet WW2 would be a nice addition with the 1.0 and might try it short term just for giggles running 175/80 injectors hopefully by end of this month. I vote for a 1.0 and Billet WWII on your rebuild.

jrc
 

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Discussion Starter #7
1.0 A/R and Baby Swamps is ideal for a lot of applications and well worth the effort especially if your are already there. Ran it with both E40D and ZF in 97 with 140/146 swamps injectors and also in my 96 CC with Swamps Babies. Thinking the billet WW2 would be a nice addition with the 1.0 and might try it short term just for giggles running 175/80 injectors hopefully by end of this month. I vote for a 1.0 and Billet WWII on your rebuild.

jrc
I'm already boosting 35psi on the top end (spooling pretty fast), and my EGTs can get a little bit up there when pulling trailers. Not sure if the 1.0 would work that well for me.

Seems like (back in the old days) guys with 1.0 housings were all swapping back to stock housings once they upgraded injectors and programming. Has something changed?

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Phillip
 

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Might not be for you, my experience with the 1.0 on a number of configurations (3.55 gears, auto, ZF, 265 to 315 tires) have been all good and for me can't see going back to 1.15 housing.

In terms of what's changed I think programing has made significant progress in the last couple years (albeit my files are guessing 5 yrs old) and availability of lower cost aftermarket HPOP's.

Following link speaks to 1.0 more....

http://http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=282706

jrc
 

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I think SOME of the problems with the 1.0 and EGT have changed as things developed. In my case the problem was getting under the turbo and running up EGT. If you downshifted and ran the crap out of it it brought EGT down. Unfortunatly I swapped back to the 1.0 and installed the WW2 at teh same time.
I had taken the 1.0 out due to EGT, but I'm not sure it wasn't worse with the 1.15. Each truck is different due to so many gearing combos and uses.

So for me, the 1.0 works great with WW2, intake, exhaust, Stage 1 injectors, DP tuner tunes, Swamps IDM, ZF5, 3.55 and 35" tires. They hadn't made the 360 thrust yet when I rebuilt my turbo last but it was still tight 50,000 miles or so later and it will peg the 35# gauge (faster and easier now)

So I had stock turbo, .95 ATS wategated housing and 1.0. Now with WW2 and 1.0.

I think leaking intake manifolds had more to do with EGT's than anything else!
 
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