[Blue-Truck-Nut97]

Jax,

There are a set of spring "fingers" inside the master piston that hold the end of the pushrod in. I took a tube that had a about the same ID as the Od of the pushrod and cut it in half. You then put the halves on the push rod and push them up into the master cylinder where hopefully they will push the fingers out of the way and allow you to retract the pushrod.

Cj

Same principle as an A/C or a fuel line fitting. For those of us that are visual learners.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

 

[Jax]

I hate to do it, but I may just change out the master cylinder. I changed out the slave when I built the truck. The current master has those two broke shims and a piece knocked out on the bottom.

Watch this spot to see me bitching about having to bleed the stinking thing!

 

[cjfisher]

Watch this spot to see me bitching about having to bleed the stinking thing!

Oh we will

 

[Jax]

I took my phone to O'reilly's and compare this pic to the clutch master cylinder. The bottom of mine has a "teat" broken off, and it has a hole in the upper right. It is also missing a large grommet. I have a new one, and will mod the new push rod.

 

[Jax]

There I was . . . pulled out the old one and looked it over. Looked at the new one. Compared the push rods - the new one was smaller! I hemmed and hawed and the damage on the old wasn't as bad as it looks in the pic, so I decided to keep the old one.

Cut the end off the push rod, dremeled it smooth. Tried to fit the replacement part. Mmmm no. Used a filed, and the dremel . . . hmmm. Time to grab the calipers.

Mind you, the clutch master cylinder is still connected through all this.

Pull out the trusty calipers, and the push rod end is .3996 inches in diameter.

The part is .3765 in diameter. Oh, f***.

Here come the drill bits. Of course I don't have one between .390 and .409.

Anyway, the part is on. It's going together smoothly. It's Carhartts insulated coveralls in the morning and regular coveralls this afternoon. Except the $%^&*() master cylinder will not twist the 45° it needs to go into the clutch support bracket. It is square, and if you twist it 45°, it will be square to the bracket and slide into place, and then twist back and lock in place. Arthritis is a incredible handicap.

Break time for an adult beverage, and back to trying to install it.

 

[1970something]

take a nap, and decide tomorrow is another day.

 

[Jax]

Nope, no nap. I really need some HELP, TIPS!!!

I finally got the Clutch Master twisted and into place, but I cannot push it all the way in to twist it back so it locks in place! I've been struggling with it all afternoon. I ended up tying back the harness with paracord because it was getting in the way. I only need it to move in another 8th of an inch.

Ideas?

 

[Jax]

I've asked a friend to help, since I don't apparently have the hand strength.

 

[Jax]

In case anyone stumbles in here looking for instructions.

 

[Jax]

Yeay, my Army bestie came over, shoved it in and twisted. Done in about five minutes!

I need to tie up the neutral safety switch harness because it rotates the switch around. Otherwise, everything is A-OK!

 

[1970something]

i guess army grunts ARE good for something! 😁

 

[Jax]

Well, dagnabit, I put injector cleaner in the tank. Cleared all the codes. These came back.
(WARN) [10:58:08.194] Test completed, found DTCs: P0269, P0284
What are the Possible Causes of the Code P0269 Ford?
Dirty Fuel Injector 3
Faulty Fuel Injector 3
Plugged Fuel Injector 3
Fuel injector 3 harness is open or shorted
Fuel injector 3 circuit poor electrical connection

What are the Possible Causes of the Code P0284 Ford?
Dirty Fuel Injector 8
Faulty Fuel Injector 8
Plugged Fuel Injector 8
Fuel injector 8 harness is open or shorted
Fuel injector 8 circuit poor electrical connection

Number 8 was changed out in El Paso, when it started firing funny.

Number 3 is new.

I have a spare injector. Should I go ahead and swap out #3 after checking the wiring?

 

[1970something]

yes to all questions.

 

[Jax]

Thanks, Aloysius .

I need to redo the Pig's oil cooler so she is "up" before I do the Beast. Darn it.

 

[1970something]

I now identify as Aloysius, and will no longer answer to other names. 😁

 

[Jax]

@1970something - Aloysius - didn't you once say that FORScan often throws codes on cyl #8? Do you think they both could be going south?

 

[1970something]

Not that FORSCAN throws codes on 8, but that it seems almost all scanners see a code on 8 even if nothing is wrong.
Some type of gremlin in the system.

 

[Jax]

How does one test an injector without removing it? Can it be done?

Results of the KOER Cylinder Contribution Self Test

P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0541 Intake Air Heater 'A' Circuit Low [Deleted]

Both trucks are running on a tank full of diesel with injector cleaner. No changes.

I have both trucks functional right now. I am trying to decide if I swap out the Beast's #3 for the spare injector I have, or to keep the Beast running and swap out all 8 of the Pigs' with new glow plugs, UVCH, etc.

The Pig isn't throwing any engine codes.

 

[1970something]

move beast #3 to another cylinder. if the code follows the injector it is the issue. if it stays at #3 the issue is electrical.

 

[cjfisher]

The #8 cylinder misfire often shows up in these engines. If you look at the firing order #6 fires right before #8 which can leave #8 a little starved for oil. The reduced pressure causes #8 to push less that the commanded amount of fuel which typically shows up as a #8 contribution code.

Cj