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Discussion Starter · #3,961 ·
YHGTBFKM!!! This is all they have on removing the Clutch Pedal
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!
 

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99 & 00, F350s, manual and auto, Ext & Crew Cab, 4x2 & 4x4, need more room!
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Discussion Starter · #3,962 ·
In #2 above, there is a C-clip retainer on a pin that goes all the way through the clutch pedal hinge.

This pit HITS THE SIDE WALL if you push it through. Clutch hinge is still stuck on the freaking pin.

Suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,964 ·

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Discussion Starter · #3,966 ·
I don't see the brake pedal attaching to the clutch pedal support. I have the top nuts off of the studs -- My picture shows (I could not tell while I was looking it it) that there are bolts going through the firewall? As the hexagonal openings holds the two bolts from turning, I must presume there are nuts on the other side? I could not find them! (one bold head is hidden behind bracket.

Then again, the sun is going down and cold-azz wind was blowing up my pant leg, so I quit early.

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99 & 00, F350s, manual and auto, Ext & Crew Cab, 4x2 & 4x4, need more room!
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Discussion Starter · #3,967 ·
I am thinking I could remove the C-clip from the other side of the pin, but I don't think I can get the pin past the wire harness.
 

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sorry, just looking at pics i see the pedal assembly is not attached to the brake like it was on the 97 and older trucks.

yes there are nuts in the engine bay for the two sunk into the bracket. you can see them in the beginning of this you tube when he flips the bracket over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,969 ·
THANKS! Bullshit that you can get just the pedal out. You can't pull that pin.

Hopefully tomorrow, it will be warmer. I don't know why I couldn't see the nuts.

How did he get the clutch push rod out?
 

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2001 Lariat F350. Jelibuilt tunes, BTS trans
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$5.90 per quart Rang up at $63/2.5g jug, or 6.30 a quart. Bastards would sell me only one at the $59/jug price.
This is why I love my T4…. $15 a gallon 😁

Now, I dump a quart of additive in there that makes T6 look cheap, but I’m still spending less than $100 an oil change including the analysis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,971 ·
sorry, just looking at pics i see the pedal assembly is not attached to the brake like it was on the 97 and older trucks.

yes there are nuts in the engine bay for the two sunk into the bracket. you can see them in the beginning of this you tube when he flips the bracket over.
Thank you so much, Tom! This was awesome!

But how did he get the pushrod out of the clutch master cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,972 ·
So, clutch pedal and support removed. ^ I don't understand how the push rod fell off! ^
^This wasn't worn at all!^ [Sarcasm font designated by ^]

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Discussion Starter · #3,973 ·
So the thing is welded in. A bit of overkill, I'd say!
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Took me 10 minutes to get here!
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Discussion Starter · #3,974 ·
Finally got it all ground off, and knocked the pin out. Final result:

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Discussion Starter · #3,975 ·
Problem, however. On the clutch master cylinder, there were two "rings". (Separated to show break)

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The second ring is still on the clutch master cylinder, but you can see that the second one is also broken at the top. Do I have to buy a new clutch master cylinder because those rings are probably not available this side of Hades?

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Discussion Starter · #3,976 ·
And how do I get that stinking clutch pushrod out of there?!?!?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,979 ·
Are the shims really necessary? You push the master cylinder in at an angle, and then twist it straight. I'm guessing the shims are tension shims, but ???
 

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Jax,

There are a set of spring "fingers" inside the master piston that hold the end of the pushrod in. I took a tube that had a about the same ID as the Od of the pushrod and cut it in half. You then put the halves on the push rod and push them up into the master cylinder where hopefully they will push the fingers out of the way and allow you to retract the pushrod.

Cj
 
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