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Discussion Starter · #881 ·
for the money you paid for that trans, i don't understand why it is not back in the crate waiting for them to pick it up.
That is true, but what would I gain?

They would have to rapidly fix it, possibly hurry too much. Might have a little resentment mixed in. In the meantime, my truck is down and I just adopted a senior German Shepherd. I need that crew cab.

I do have friends that were welders that can TIG it for me. It is not structural.

Therefore, my only concern is longevity and I am requesting an extended warranty.

When it comes down to it, how long it lasts is the most important part.
 

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I'm under the assumption that's a premium rebuild trans, for a premium price.

If that was mine (the company that rebuilt it) I would have a hard time not letting that not come back. Name is everything.
 

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for the money you paid for that trans, i don't understand why it is not back in the crate waiting for them to pick it up.
^^^^^THIS! Yeah, it sucks having to wait, but with all of the things you're finding wrong it makes me wonder what else is wrong in places you can't see. Send it back, on their dime, and demand their next available one. Don't settle for being put back into the queue. Yes, some of these things were damage in transit, but that magnet, the crud on it, the cracks.....that all should have been caught before it left their shop.

Think of it this way. If you ran a multi-million dollar company would you want that transmission to represent you and your work ethic? If not, send it back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #884 ·
The cracks were part of the transit damage. There is no paint in them, and therefore not there when the tranny left the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #885 ·
NEW QUESTION --

Background - Tom may remember when I said the shifter was hard to shift. He said, "Disconnect the connector at the transmission and see how it moves." It moved fine.

Now, hooked back up, it shifts hard again. Also, the shift handle is loose - do I have to take the column apart?


But the real problem is the shifter cable. I can shift the transmission on the transmission linkage easily. The shifter cable, however, "bottoms out" when going to "1". Is there any adjustment to it? If I adjust the clip on the tranny, then the shifter doesn't line up with the location line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #887 ·
Did you straighten the bent shift lever yet. That was damaged in transit.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
No - as I said, it shifted easily by hand. It isn't the transmission, it's my shifter and linkage. I just do not know what to do to fix it.
 

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Here's an idea, ask em if you can keep your core instead of returning the rebuilt trans? Then you at least have a good case if this doesn't work out well.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #889 ·
Well, the new tranny is in and test driven. It shifts really hard and sometimes not. They said you have to run it around and let it learn. So far, so good.

It's also overfull. Don't know where my head was. Will drain to proper level and retest.
 
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Discussion Starter · #890 ·
Drained less than a quart, so I know the level is right on the stick.

Drove it around town, first early in the morning so I could do stop-and-go and let it shift 1-2-1-2 . . .

Then I hit a 40mph road so I could use the cruise to go between 36-38-36-38. Third still shifts hard, but not always.

If you stomp on it, it definitely shifts hard, but you would expect that. 3rd is extra hard, like someone bumped your vehicle. But, Bob Riley of DieselSite says it will settle out.

Does anyone know anyone else that put one of these in?
 

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2001 Lariat F350. Leveled, 5” exhaust, ww38, 6637,
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Mom volunteered to haul it.

But she has also provided a list of demands. Chief among them that A) no transmission fluid ends up in her carpet, and B) she can not smell trans fluid for any duration of the trip.

considering it’s cheaper than freight and I know it won’t get Yeeted into a concrete slab at Mach F***… it’s well worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #893 ·
I figured I would try towing, but the trailer 7-blade is a mess. I pulled it all apart, cleaned it up, hammered the bracket back into shape, and put on the Hopkins Endurance 4 + 7.

Insufficient power to the trailer. Plugged in the Tundra, and trailer lights work fine, so somewhere in the truck, it's not sending power to the tow plug. The tailight was super faint, and the turn signal just glowed the filament. Just pulled out the wiring book.
 
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Can’t help you there. My ford has been Uber bulletproof in all of my grand dad’s short infested trailers.

“It only blows a fuse when I use anything less than a 30 amp. It’s fine.”
 

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Discussion Starter · #895 ·
"short infested trailer". Love it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #896 ·
I figured I would try towing, but the trailer 7-blade is a mess. I pulled it all apart, cleaned it up, hammered the bracket back into shape, and put on the Hopkins Endurance 4 + 7.

Insufficient power to the trailer. Plugged in the Tundra, and trailer lights work fine, so somewhere in the truck, it's not sending power to the tow plug. The tailight was super faint, and the turn signal just glowed the filament. Just pulled out the wiring book.
Would a bad relay cause that?
 

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The first thing to check with trailer light problems are the grounds.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk
 
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You can try some light power breaking to test the power in your trains
 

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Discussion Starter · #899 ·
Okay, found it. Not the ground. The previous owner replaced a bunch of fuses with 30A.

I assumed the worse, so replaced the two towing relays. Also made sure all the proper size fuses are where they belong.

That said, the transmission has to go back. It shifts so f***ing hard, I'm going to get whiplash.
 

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Fuse size should not affect how bright a light is other than blowing if it is too small to handle the load. All it does is pass current through to the load which is the lights. It could care less if it was a 100 amp or a 15 amp fuse. Just that if it was a 15 amp fuse and the circuit was drawing 20 amps it will blow.
 
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