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Discussion Starter #1
Well my wife wants to see results before the snow is over and time to pull the toy hauler out of the shed. This weekend starts the long process of upgrades. So the list includes:

- Turbine housing install
- MRBP turbo back exhaust install
- Intercooler install
- Install gauges
- Repair exhaust brake hoses
- Repair shift boot
- Custom center console & stereo/amp/speaker install
- Class V receiver install
- Aux rear back up lights
- Window tint
- Tonneau cover install
- Custom exterior mirrors

Then finish up maintenance and little bit of body work. Then after that, finish the mods to RV.... will post pics along the way....just hope I survive....lol

Cory
 

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Good luck sounds like fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just have to decide to either use the EGT probe ports on the exhaust brake or drill/tap pre-turbo. I know it can be about 100-200 F difference in temps, but don't know if it is worth the trouble.

Cory
 

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i would definatly put it in the manifold... its not always 200 difference, i have seen trucks with pre and post turbo and when your on it the difference can be over 600 kinda scary.... its well worth the time to put it pre turbo
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well the difference is the energy(thermal) going into the turbine wheel to spin up the turbo. I was thinking about drilling and tapping the turbo manifold/collector where the turbine housing mounts. I have an extra one that I could utilize...

Cory
 

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the pic above was from my buddy cody's truck. LoL. i was with him when that pic was taken and i will say that pre/post turbo EGTs vary greatly! one second they could be within 200* of each other then the next thing you no your driving down the road and there is a 500* difference. i'd go pre turbo always, but y'all know that Gale likes them post turbo.... LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well first day the truck is victorious. I have decided against doing the IC retrofit. It appears that how I would have to run the IC tubes is just more than I really want to do. I don't really want to hack through everything to fit the 3" tubes. Also the 1999 spider I bought doesn't fit because of the fuel bowl. The pressure nipples hit the fuel filter housing. So the whole thing is going up for sale.... In addition, I have not seen a turbo like this. The bolts that mount it to the pedestal are from underneath. Not to mention that I cannot get a wrench on the lower T4 flange bolts or the back two pedestal to block bolts! I have no friggin clue how to get the turbo off....so my 1.0 A/R housing is going to have to wait. While I was in there I found two problems. I have a bad oil leak coming from either the fuel pump "O" ring (look like a new fuel pump), or most likely from the EBV actuator from what I can tell... Also, I took the intake "y" off and found it has been missing a great big chunk of the discharge "o" ring...no wonder it was lousy to boost. I did get most of the stock exhaust and all the downpipe out of it though. Will continue to work at it, but if anyone has suggestions for the leak and how to get this friggin turbo off, let me know!

Cory
 

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the pic above was from my buddy cody's truck. LoL. i was with him when that pic was taken and i will say that pre/post turbo EGTs vary greatly! one second they could be within 200* of each other then the next thing you no your driving down the road and there is a 500* difference. i'd go pre turbo always, but y'all know that Gale likes them post turbo.... LOL
lol thats funny that its your buddys truck, i dont even know where i got the pic but i have had it for a while its a fine example of the big difference
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So what is everyone doing about the spyder hitting the fuel filter housing? In addition, I know you have to cut the core support, but it looks like you have to trim th e the radiator.shroud flange as well? Do you have to bend the condenser lines?

Cory
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So if some one could reply about two issues: 1. What do you do about the spyder hitting the fuel filter housing? Is anyone use the OEM spyder with the stock mechanical fuel filter? 2. Is there anything that needs to be done with the condenser and/or lines? All the previous links for the detailed installs seem to be missing or not working anymore.

Cory
 

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on the IC. all that needs to be done is cut holes for IC tubes to go through, put in some mounting brackets, modify the hood latch and the A/C condensor brackets. you will need to bend the A/C line on the driver side a bit, but can be done easily by hand. the spyder from the E99 should fit directly on even with the fuel bowl. you don't need fittings or anything on the front of the spyder so you can take out the heater element and put a plug in its place and the vacuum fittings can be cut off and welded over. nothing is needed there. not a bad install really. just time consuming. make sure you get the IC mounted as close as possible to the radiator b/c you will need all the room you can get to tighten the clamps closest to the IC on the boots.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks very much for the input. What was throwing me is when the spyder was hitting the fuel bowl. I pulled (it wasn't the intake heater like I have seen) but what looked to be a IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor and plugged the hole. Then the vacuum ports were in the way. I have never seen anyone mention those steps in their write-ups. I was planning on doing that, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something... BTW whoever designed the turbo mounting should be shot. I have worked for years on DT366's, DT466's and DT444E's. The DT444E's in the fleets I supported all had the turbo to pedestal bolts from the top down! Will make the "miracle tool" and ge that done too.

Cory
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well Saturday #2 has been a full day. Turbo still in place because I need a 10mm ratchet wrench stubby. Will pick that up tomorrow and get that turbo off of there. Found a few more issues with the truck the deeper I dig. Found one of the "Up Pipe" bolts was missine and the other side was loose. This is where my exhaust smell was coming from.....Donuts are probable gone as well, so those will get replaced. Does anyone know with the early 99 spyder if you have to use a different turbo discharge clamp? The stock one doesn't seem to fit. While I was cursing and allowing the penetrating oil to set into the last "Up Pipe" bolt, I found some leftover DT444E parts including a spider. So I made my own two piece intake spyder for the IC kit. It still needs just a little work to make it perfect and took a couple of tries to ensure there were no pinholes that would leak. All in all, very tired and want to shoot a Navistar / Ford engineer.....

Cory
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Does anyone know when you use the early '99 spyder if you have to use a different turbo discharge clamp than the stock OBS piece?

Cory
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I ordered an upgraded compressor wheel and a rebuild kit from the local Garrett distributor so hopefully next weekend it will be back in good condition. In addition I am going to see if the extra non-EBV pedestal I have from a torn down T444E motor will fit. Then I don't have to worry about oil leaks from the actuator. We'll find out in a week...

Cory
 
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