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Discussion Starter #1
Not only did I put the stage 2's in but I upped to a 250A alternator, stancor gpr, and the starter coincidentally burned up on me so I got a HiTorq DBStarter too! Putting gauges in tomorrow and I'm looking for IC and e99 spyder now to install an IC.

Question about stage 2 install: It's now been running about 15 minutes. I've read to make sure the air bubbles get worked out etc etc. the white smoke is HEAVY and hasn't changed from being cold to warm. As explained to me and expected, it took a bit of cranking and charging in order to start. Right away, and since then, it's been a cloud of white smoke.

My Check Engine light is on, is that normal after an injector upgrade? I haven't got the chip tuned yet for the new sticks in case that makes a difference.

There's oil coming from the tail pipe. It looks like a significant amount. Its a hand size puddle on the ground. It's gravel so I can't tell an accurate amount.

This probably doesn't have anything to do with the injectors but the volt meter reads normal but all the lights are dim. When I tap the gas the volt gauge shoots to the right and everything lights up.

Thanks.

~Josh

edit - Here's the thread about the install. Many injector install questions... - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

edit2 - also I think I should say, the 250a alternator came with a smaller pulley that wasn't wide enough for my belt so I had to remove the stock pulley and put it on. Is it possible that the alternator is not making enough power with the MUCH bigger pulley then it came with origninally??
 

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Sounds like normal issues to me.... The smoke should clear after you run the piss out of the truck, it won't clear just idling for ten minutes in your driveway...

As for the oil, keep an eye on it. It is possible that some oil will come that way as it's not possible to get every last drop out of the cylinders, there will be some to come that way.

And for the alt, use a meter at idle, should be above 13ish volts...
 

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x2. You got oil in your cylinders from changing injectors... A 20-30minute drive should clear that up.... And you probably killed the voltage in your batteries trying to get it started. So after your test drive, your batteries should be back to normal and voltage gage should level out.... But wouldn't hurt to check with a volt meter...12.8-13.6 volts while running.....
 

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That bigger pulley is slowing the alternator too so its spinning slower than designed until you give it more rpm's.
 

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With the 4 inj changes Ive done, a CEL, heavy white smoke and a puddle of oil wasnt typical. Now that said, all of the oil wasnt cleared out of the cyls and the white smoke should be from some cold combustion combined with improving inj operation (rail pressure).

As a side note, I never fully button up the valve covers until the motor is fairly happy in teh driveway. That way,if there is an issue, I can get right to it. If I were you, I'd check to make sure the injs are level and steady oil is pumping.

Start driving her if the install looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just to clarify, you're saying it is not typical? Does that mean the CEL should clear out after all the air/oil is worked out? There shouldn't be oil coming from the tail pipe?

I don't have gauges in in yet because I'm debating on getting the 4pod still. I have a 3 pod but don't want to install it then change my mind to a quad. edit - that's my reason for not driving it around. Everyone says don't drive at all with mods and no gauges (understandably so) but I wonder if it would be ok just to bebop around town for a bit.

When you say check to make sure the injs are level, you mean pull the vc off and eye scope it level or get out a level and make it perfect? All the inj seated good when I did the install, I had no questions on any of them whether they were seated correctly.

OverBoost - What is a way to stop that? I can't obviously be driving my truck at night with the headlights and all the other lights dimming and brightening as per the RPM's.

Thanks everyone for the responses, I really really appreciate the help.
 

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I think its all normal, except the CEL on. Scan it. Oil dripping out of the tail pipe is normal, obviously it should clear out
 

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I think it would be okay to drive it, just leave your tuner off. I just did an injector swap a few months ago for my first time and your did the same thing mine did.

If you have too, just put your old alternator back on for a while.
 

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Just to clarify, you're saying it is not typical? Does that mean the CEL should clear out after all the air/oil is worked out? There shouldn't be oil coming from the tail pipe?
The CEL needs to be checked/verified then reset the pcm to see if it comes back. You could have had something disconnected, etc to cause it, but I'm only saying that I've never had a truck display a CEL after a change.

The oil in the pipe would indicate a large amount of residual oil left over in the cyls. It should go away. Now, when I do an inj r&r, I 'tampon' the injector bore immediately as I remove the inj to catch most of the excess. I also remove the small oil rail plugs. It takes a second and makes for a very clean refire.

The injector level question was just a question but it sounds like you put a good amount of effort into making sure the install went well, so its all good.

Hows it running now?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think its all normal, except the CEL on. Scan it. Oil dripping out of the tail pipe is normal, obviously it should clear out
I don't have a scanner, yet. I suppose now would be the best time to order one from CP, I think it was them that quoted me for one.

I think it would be okay to drive it, just leave your tuner off. I just did an injector swap a few months ago for my first time and your did the same thing mine did.

If you have too, just put your old alternator back on for a while.
Ok, I've been running it on 50hp tune. I"ll change it to stock and see what happens.

The CEL needs to be checked/verified then reset the pcm to see if it comes back. You could have had something disconnected, etc to cause it, but I'm only saying that I've never had a truck display a CEL after a change.

The oil in the pipe would indicate a large amount of residual oil left over in the cyls. It should go away. Now, when I do an inj r&r, I 'tampon' the injector bore immediately as I remove the inj to catch most of the excess. I also remove the small oil rail plugs. It takes a second and makes for a very clean refire.

The injector level question was just a question but it sounds like you put a good amount of effort into making sure the install went well, so its all good.

Hows it running now?
Yes, there is a lot of oil then. I turned the motor for 20 seconds with the starter to purge it all out, apparently that wasn't enough.

It's running average. Hit or miss I'd say. I can't really go far with it because the CCV is not installed yet. I lost one of the screws and both of the 1" gaskets that go underneath. I've read about people running it open and just dealing with the smell. Do you think it would be safe to leave it open and go driving for a bit? Also, where would I find a matching screw? Does Ford have a part # for the ccv oring? Thanks.
 

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Yes, ford wil sell the o-ring separately, I just bought two for like $3. I wouldn't worry about the bolt too much any bolt the same length and some RTV will seal it.
 

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seal the box to the VC first because it would make a big mess 10 mins down the road...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, ford wil sell the o-ring separately, I just bought two for like $3. I wouldn't worry about the bolt too much any bolt the same length and some RTV will seal it.
Easier for you to say LOL I don't have bolts laying around anywhere. I have to go find one that fits. I'll get the orings when they're open tomorrow, thanks.

Looks like I won't be driving it today after all.

I'm trying to start it just to keep it running thinking it will help a little but it's running so shltty it hardly keeps an idle. RPM's go from 300-900 by the second like it's gonna die then fires right back up non stop. I changed the ICP sensor out as well, not sure that has anything to do with it.
 

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You have to drive it to get the air out... It will not do it idling in your driveway... It will run rough..

I bet your cel came from the icp.
 

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You have to drive it to get the air out... It will not do it idling in your driveway... It will run rough..

I bet your cel came from the icp.
:whs: I've had em throw a CEL from long cranks to get em to fire after an injector swap.
 

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Does Ford have a part # for the ccv oring? Thanks.
The o-ring under the bolt head is F4TZ-6769-A, the o-ring between the breather and the valve cover is F4TZ-6769-C. The bolts are # 40054-R1 to attach the breather to the valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The o-ring under the bolt head is F4TZ-6769-A, the o-ring between the breather and the valve cover is F4TZ-6769-C. The bolts are # 40054-R1 to attach the breather to the valve cover.
Thanks. Out of curiosity, are you looking somewhere online as a reference for those part #'s or do you know them off the top of your head? lol

Ford doesn't have record of the bolt for the breather, 40054-r1 doesn't exist. He tried to look up in an old book even and no luck. He said they probably come with the breather when you buy it, at $189 LOL

There is no salvage yard around here that hold diesel engines either... Anyone have an extra ccv bolt laying around? :doh:
 

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Your parts guy needs to put a dash (or a *, whatever his system uses for a hardware number) in front of the number (-40054-R1). I'm showing 32 in stock at Ford's Memphis depot tonight.

I've been in the parts business since 1985, with Ford since 1995.

Edit: You can look up SOME of your own parts on Ford's own parts website, but it's not a complete list.
I see they don't have any info on the bolt on there, but your dealer really should be able to order it. If they can't.......maybe it's time for a new parts guy?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I really think I'm having another problem and I was wondering if you guys could help. One thing I need to learn is all the sensors, abbreviations, and what they do and mean. IPR, IDM, ICP, 9/11, FPR, etc. etc.

The truck has not been operable to go for a drive for the last few days because of the ccv. I got the bolt (thanks again bracketracer for the assistance) from ford, got the ccvmod done enough to drive and started it.

It runs extremely rough, not even mentioning the smoke. 100 rpms up to 1000rpm's within less then a second, back and forth back and forth.

It did it in all settings of my TS chip (except no start which it did exactly that so I know the chip is functioning) that I tried it in.

It will stay running like that basically until I touch it then it will die. If I give it gas it requires the pedal to be near the floor until it registers fuel and revs up and will die right away if I let off the gas. I managed to get it in gear once and make it down the driveway a ways until it died. It wouldn't start so I ran (literally haha) back to the house got another car went and jumped it, let it charge for about 30 minutes because I was on the phone, and when I started it, still on the jump, it started flawlessly AND continued to run flawlessly. I drove it around the block a few times, about 2-3miles in total. Stopped at the house, turned it off, started it again and it ran like garbage.

I had the batteries tested and they said they were ok. I mention this because the voltage gauge was almost to the bottom until I would give it gas. If I held the gas at a substantial rpm the gauge slowly moves up telling me the alternator is charging them. It does take more than normal to get the engine to start when I do start it. With a hi torque starter it takes 8-10 engine rotations right now to start it and would take 5-6 with a regular starter to do before.

I changed the ICP because the pigtails were melted and the sensor itself was broke in half. Could the sensor be bad? It was OEM, from Ford.

Thanks for reading this wall of text and helping me out.

edit - in the driveway it died because I let off the gas. All lights were functioning perfectly. I don't think the batteries were the cause.

Tomorrow morning I'm going to put the stock alternator back on and see what happens then. Doesn't seem like an alternator problem to me though :headscratch:
 

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Is the CEL still on and did you get the codes read yet?


Before you switch the alternators back, throw a digital voltmeter on one of the batteries and check the voltage while it's idling. Also put the voltmeter on the AC setting and see what it shows. Why check for AC current when the truck runs on DC current? Because if you have a leaking diode the AC ripple will cause havoc on your DC loving computer. Might not be the problem but it's an easy check. Well, easy if you have a voltmeter!
 
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