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crazy cunuck
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266 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok here we go! My truck is an f-350 2006, it has EGR delete, studs, coolant filter, CAI, 4" exhaust straight and tunes from Eric. I am currently running tow aggressive. Just this past week my coolant started to puke and I was sure it was my hg again. Went to stealership and just replaced the cap. When motor was hot and when I was pushed it the pressure in degas bottle rised up to 15-16 psi. No puking though since last week. Than I was told to check the eot and the ect. I was running pretty hard with no load and the temps read eot/235 and ect/185. Does the temperatures sound right? And the pressure in degas bottle, does that sound right?
Any info would be much appreciated!
Thanks
David
 

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professional slacker
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632 Posts
It looks like you need an oil cooler.....do you know if it was replaced when the HG were done?
Oil should be no more than 15* warmer than coolant.
 

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crazy cunuck
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266 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
How do i fix ECT????
Oil cooler? Do you mean the one in the front with all the other radiators?
 

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Registered
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69 Posts
:whs:
Thermostat first, it's about $25

The oil cooler is in the valley at the front of the block, under the oil filter housing.
 

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crazy cunuck
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266 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The only cooler that I know of on top of motor is the EGR cooler and I took that out. Ive done a complete delete.
 

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professional slacker
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632 Posts
If your oil cooler is good and your thermostat is bad your oil temps will be closer to your coolant temps, cooler coolant means cooler oil.....you still need to get a thermostat.
It just does not make any sence to drain coolant to do a t-stat then drain it again to do the oil cooler.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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4,318 Posts
My pressure in the degas runs 9 psig as a normal "hot" value. 12 psig is the max I have seen.

I would be somewhat concerned if I saw 15+ psig.
 

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crazy cunuck
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266 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks found the oil cooler.
I know from the last time that I blew my headgaskets the whistle the degas bottle cap makes. Ever since I changed the cap I haven't heard it yet and no more puking. Two days ago I hauler a 10k lbs trailer and no problems. Today I will be moving cattle and it will be a good test for it. I have bought an edge insight cts and will be plugging it in today to see what's going on.
 

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Was the oil cooler replaced when your HG were done? Keep an eye on your delta, if it gets to be more than 15-20 apart problems are sure to follow.
 

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Yes, you're wrong, :D partially because you have the coolant path incorrect. But even with an egr delete first in line , the tainted coolant would still clog the cooler eventually since it just bypasses the EGR cooler.

ECT/EOT are seperate from the EGR. Coolant flows through the oil cooler first, cooling the oil, then through the EGR. When the oil cooler gets clogged from debris and casting sand, the EGR doesn't get enough coolant, overheats and fails. Having the EGR delete you minimize your chances for headgasket failure.

Having a coolant filter will minimize oil cooler failue, but not if the cooler had issues before it was installed. You'll still have a clogged cooler preventing the coolant from doing it's job......cooling the oil.

The fact that the coolant isn't getting to operating temp points to a thermostat issue, and since it's cheaper to fix and only takes a few min to drain enough coolant to replace it...

Switching to an ELC, EC1 rated coolant that is silicate free will also help save an oil cooler.:rockwoot:
 

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Gambled and Lost 6.oh
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927 Posts
Ok thanks! I was mis-informed then. Not to steal the thread, I have an egr delete and eot/ect always stay within delta, ect fluctuates significantly between 186 and 192 usually closer to 186. My heater doesn't blow hot at idle..now what :)
 

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Ok thanks! I was mis-informed then. Not to steal the thread, I have an egr delete and eot/ect always stay within delta, ect fluctuates significantly between 186 and 192 usually closer to 186. My heater doesn't blow hot at idle..now what :)
Does it blow warm when you're driving? Check your coolant level. If it's good then sounds like you have a clogged heater core. When at idle the coolant can't make it past the clog, but when RPM's increase the coolant pressure pushes past the clog. You could try to revrse flush the system, or replace the heater core.

With your temp bouncing like it does your thermostat might be on it's way out.
 

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Gambled and Lost 6.oh
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Coolant level is good, yes it blows warm when I'm driving it. But not till it reaches 180degrees. I'm going to try a good flush and replace thermostat while I'm doing it. Its gonna get stud job this spring
 

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When you flush it, run some Restore and Restore + (VC-9), through it. There is a write up at the top of the tech page. It'a not a reverse flush though. A reverse flush may or may not clear up a clog if you have one.

Do you have a coolant filter? How many miles on your rig? When you do studs, replace the oil cooler. Even if you aren't having issues, I wouldn't pay all that money or do all that work, if you do it yourself, and chance it.
 
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