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Discussion Starter #1
Last Jan 2009 I replaced the water pump. A year later, this happened :mad:



So I decided to gather the parts to convert over to a Int'l water pump with filter :evil

After much research I decided to get a brand new Int'l pump. The pumps are made by Geomar, part # RW6114 ( Geomar Heavy Duty ). I bought the pump from these guys Mondial Automotive | Remanufactured and New Alternators, Carburetors, Generators, and Starters for Cars, Trucks, Vans and Boats for under $200. Int'l wanted $394. The Geomar unit is cast iron and has some weight to it. For more info New Source for International Water Pump - NAPA - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com



I'm not going to go over on how to drain the coolant, remove fan/shround and water pump.

The boss under water outlet needs to be ground down. The boss is meant to be used with a pulley. But to retain the stock serpentine belt, it needs to be ground down.

The pump has multiple ports. The plugs come with the pump and plug them as needed. The heater hose that goes over the alternator could now be relocated. Also the degas bottle hose that "tee's" into the lower rad hose get eliminated and so does the lower rad hose. They get moved to the water inlet. This where to install the barb fittings.

You are going to need different lengths bolts, some of the stock would work but I bought all new bolts from Int'l. The pump takes the longer T-stat.

After I installed the water pump, as I began to install the water pump pulley and it was hitting the pump body. WTF :mad: A little investigation revealed that the raised casting number was hitting. Some more grinding got rid of it. I also opted to grind the backside of the pulley slightly for extra clearance.

I re-used the upper hose and water outlet because I replaced them last year and they were in good shape.

Parts:

- Water pump (Geomar RW6114) or Int'l 1831676C92
- 30 mm bolts (Int'l 1817958C1) need 3
- 60 mm bolts (Int'l 1817811C1) need 2
- 110 mm bolts (Int'l 1818693C1 need 4
- Fleatguard WF2071 coolant filter 4 SCA
- Lower hose NAPA 8763 (Dodge Cummins 89-93 I think)
- T-stat (Int'l 1823417C92) 192*
- 2'-3' of 1" heater hose
- 3/4 NPT to 1" male barb*
- 1/2 NPT to 5/8 male barb*
* NOTE: Straight fittings could be used but 45* are better
- 3/4 NPT to 1" male barb 45* (Jeg's 100491)
- 1/2 NPT to 5/8 male barb 45* (Russell 663080)

Hint: Install the barb fittings prior to installing the water pump, don't ask me how I know :pointlaugh: I wasn't able to get the smaller 45* barb fitting on because it would hit the backpressure tube on the swing. I sleeved the heater hose with some thermal barrier I had lying around.



For more pics International water pump w/ filter pictures from trucks photos on webshots

Billy T.
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Cool. I did mine years ago, glad to see that upgrade is still being done.

Why just a 192° stat and not the 203°?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool. I did mine years ago, glad to see that upgrade is still being done.

Why just a 192° stat and not the 203°?
Thanks

I thought I got the 203º one because it was the long type. After I opened the box, I saw it was 192º :( I don't know if 9 º would make a difference.

And to compound the issue T-stat issue, I got confused over the long and short type:confused:

After driving for 50 miles, the coolant needle would just barely get to the "N". Previously it would get to the "R" with the Stant T-stat I had in there.

Billy T.
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JFURNER77
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Any photos of the new hose set up? If you want to create a little write up Billy this would be another great one for the library.

Tom
:whs:
Looks good ;)

The oil cooler gets contaiminated and plugged up very easily also. I think it would be a good idea to make sure it was clean, or install a new one at the same time of pump/ filter conversion.
Just my .02
 

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Thanks

I thought I got the 203º one because it was the long type. After I opened the box, I saw it was 192º :( I don't know if 9 º would make a difference.
FYI, International designed the 7.3 PSD with the 203° stat and all IH trucks with the T444E had the 203°. To me, they did it for a reason, so I went with the 203° stat when I did mine. I think Ford dropped the temps because the OBS didn't have an intercooler, whereas all IH trucks with the T444E had an intercooler anyway. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Where did you buy the failed pump you installed last year? New or reman.? (Looks like a new aftermarket from the pic). I just replaced the w.p. with a new NAPA pump (made by Airtex)...looks to be good quality, but...? I'm almost positive it was the original pump (if so, it lasted 163k miles). If my new pump only lasts a year or two, i'll be pissed (and probably will end up w/ an IH pump).
Yes, that was a NEW lifetime gaurantee Airtex pump. Not only did the it starting but the bearing is wobbling which could've been very bad. :eek: Sure they'll give you a new pump but who is covering the labor. :mad:

Sorry guys about the pics and write up, had some storm damage from last weekend's Nor-Easter. Few trees fell against my house and was out cutting them down. I did not forget about the pics.

Billy T.
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A few weeks ago I helped my neighbor put a new water pump on his PSD powered irrigation pump. The dealer we got the pump from also had the one w/ a coolant filter as part of the pump so I went back and bought it. I put it in yesterday, here are some pics.



Here it is on the motor. I put a piece of threaded rod in the extra boss then milled it all flush. Also milled off the raised casting number. I used stainless bolts and since I couldn't get flanged head in metric, I made up some washers from 5/8 304 bar stock..


Here are the fittings for the expansion tank and heater return. I got steel 45° fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose, they are stronger and way cheaper than the alum ones from Jegs. On the water pump pulley I put it in the lathe and faced .060 off the backside, it now has about the same clearance as on the original pump.


I bought a new outlet neck too. To help stiffen up the flimsy base and equalize clamping force I made what is really just a big triangular washer that fit inside the raised outer edge. It's 1/4 thick 304 stainless, also used new longer stainless bolts. Did the trick as I have no leaks! A Stant 205° T-stat was also used. Filter is a Wix with no sca additive.


The lower radiator hose is for an 00 Dodge diesel pickup. It fit a bit loose to the radiator but the clamp sealed it tight. I used all stainless worm clamps that are lined with rolled edges.


While the coolant was drained I installed the Ford Ranger heater valve. I tapped into the blue vacuum line in the cab, it shuts off coolant flow to the heater in vent and AC positions. A very cheap and worthwhile mod!


Work was slow last week so I made my own fan clutch wrench from some 3/8 steel plate. My fan clutch did not put up a fight which was a nice surprise.


Again while the coolant was drained I did some r&r on the oil cooler. It wasn't leaking but it was pretty rusty. The tube seals were also rock hard, had to cut them off.


I planned to use the existing 1/8npt port in the filter head for an oil bypass. So while I had it off I put in some holes for my oil tamp and pressure sensors. Yes I could have put them elsewhere but I wanted them here.

The job took me about 8hrs including a few beer breaks and waiting for paint to dry. Most of that was devoted to thoroughly flushing the cooling system then getting as much water out as I could. I used DI water for the final flush as we have a lot of it at work. Refilled with Cat ELC, so far it has taken 7 3/4 gallons. Yeah I know pre 99 motors supposedly can't use but neither CAT nor IH gave no reasons not to. Plus my neighbor has had it in his 1995 irrigation pump engine for 8000+ hrs with no problems so I'll chance it. This was a fun and worthwhile little project to do.
 
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