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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So got in my truck today, which I haven't driven in a few days. Turned the key, nothing. Pushed the clutch and turned the key a couple times, just had all the lights come on like it does when you turn the key without pushing the clutch. Cycled the key off, waited a second tried again and started right up. Thinking maybe the clutch switch is the culprit. I don't think I've replaced it, I've had this truck 10 years though, so it's tough to remember everything. I just don't want to get stranded, wondering if I should check anything else. I need to put it on a scanner and check the switch position, but don't have one here at home, and the chances of me having it on me next time it misbehaves.... Slim:pointlaugh:
 

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The scanner won't tell you the position of the start terminals on the switch. That switch is really two switches, two sets of terminals. One pair is normally closed, and opens when you first move the pedal; that's for the cruise, and that is an input to the PCM. The other pair is normally open, and closes when you push the pedal all the way to the floor; that's for the starter, and that circuit does NOT go through the PCM. Two completely separate circuits. You could jumper the two terminals closest to the firewall on the connector; those are the two for the starter.

This might be a symptom of a bigger issue, though. If your pedal box bushings, or the bushing on the pushrod eyelet, are worn, it won't move the pushrod all the way and the switch won't operate. But along with that, the clutch isn' fully disengaging. Need to troubleshoot that.
 

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Drive fast, look cool
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The scanner won't tell you the position of the start terminals on the switch. That switch is really two switches, two sets of terminals. One pair is normally closed, and opens when you first move the pedal; that's for the cruise, and that is an input to the PCM. The other pair is normally open, and closes when you push the pedal all the way to the floor; that's for the starter, and that circuit does NOT go through the PCM. Two completely separate circuits. You could jumper the two terminals closest to the firewall on the connector; those are the two for the starter.

This might be a symptom of a bigger issue, though. If your pedal box bushings, or the bushing on the pushrod eyelet, are worn, it won't move the pushrod all the way and the switch won't operate. But along with that, the clutch isn' fully disengaging. Need to troubleshoot that.
Thanks for the info, I'm more used to troubleshooting clutch switches on big trucks...

Pretty sure my bushings are ok, but not certain, I replaced the hydraulics when I put my southbend in a few years ago, I'm hoping thats not the issue, but I will check it all out.

Thanks again for the info!
 

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Drive fast, look cool
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I ran out there and looked at it, there is about a 1/8" of movement on the right side at the end where the arm going to the pushrod is, when you start to push the pedal. Would that be enough to throw it off? If so can you get new bushings still?
 
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