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Discussion Starter #1
I want to apologize in advance for what feels like a super long post as I was writing it.

Alright to start off I will give a run down of the truck to the best of my knowledge. I am by no means an expert on diesels or any one thing in particular but I am not engine/vehicle illiterate. I also did not build this truck so anything mentioned or aftermarket is either hearsay from previous owner or unknown to me. The truck is a Feb of 2003 built F350. It has the ZF6 transmission. The engine, which I was told was replaced with a junkyard engine is also tagged as an 03 model year. The engine has supposedly been studded, and EGR is deleted. It has an S&B intake, and what I was told to be an "aftermarket compressor wheel" which I am assuming is something along the lines of a wicked wheel but I dont remember being told that specifically. It also has a full 5in MBRP straight exhaust no cat no muffler. It has an Aeromotive A1000 lift pump with aftermarket regulator and the secondary fuel bowl has been blocked off. From what I can tell unless aeromotive has changed their design over the years it looks to be a "homemade" setup and not a kit that you would normally find from Aeromotive/FASS/Airdog. I was told that it has Warren Diesel injectors but I was not informed on the details of what specific injectors they are which in some cases poses a problem to me. Unrelated to the situation I was told it had a Southbend stage 2 clutch. The truck is run by an SCT tuner on Warren Diesel Injection tunes. Any other info needed that I may have left out on accident please ask and I will do my best to find the answer or look. I apologive if I left anything pertinent out.

Now some backstory and the problems...

I Purchased this truck about 2 years ago with no known issues other than transmisson related issues that I was willing to deal with. The truck ran good when test drove and purchased. Somewhere along the way that I cannot seem to reference, it developed a slight miss when cold that would go away once warmed up to operating temperature. I dismissed this maybe maybe to my demise. About a month ago now the truck shut off on me and left me stranded along side the road. I found the problem to be a burnt power wire to my lift pump coming from the relay. The relay when installed was never secured and I assumed the wiring had got against the brake master cylinder and had arced causing this issue but Im not ruling it out to be unrelated. So I fixed the wiring issue and drove it home now problem. At this point I realized that I had not changed the oil in this truck or fuel filters since I had bought it, mostly due to the fact that up until recently this truck had never been my daily driver and rarely used unless I was towing or hauling something. So I had not put a lot of miles or hours on the truck. I Replaced the Fuel filters both in the stock pump housing (Motorcraft) and also on the lift pump setup (Caterpillar). I replaced the oil filter (motorcraft) and found that it had previously had a Wix? possibly filter installed that was made into the filter cap. I had to purchase a cheap aftermarket (Advance Auto) oil filter cap in order to use the motorcraft filter and get the truck back on the road. The truck was filled with Rotella T6 15w40 and hot shots stiction eliminator. I primed the fuel system per recommendations read online cycle key three times for 30 seconds before I attempted to start the truck. All said and done the truck was running better than ever. I drove it for a few weeks at this point being my DD without issue, not even when cold. I had been running the truck on the WDI race tune, because I had been told by previous owner that it got better fuel economy suprisingly while on it, although I can personally say I noticed a ton of difference between it and the street tune economy wise. I do not beat on nor abuse the truck but I do not necessarily baby it either. So I filled the tank at the same fuel station that I do on a pretty regular basis. I returned the truck to the street tune in order to compare Mileage now that the oil and fuel filters had been changed to see if their were any difference since this routine maintenance. Shortly after, my miss returned. Basically the truck under normal cruising conditions "bucks/stutters. It seems to clear up under WOT about half of the time. the other half of the time it will still get up and go but you can notice a notable change in exhaust note. It just doesnt seem to have the "bark" that this normally has. and in some instances still breaks up/misses. As another symptom I have also noticed on occasion that the truck will backfire out of the exhaust. It will do it either on a shift or will do it while sittin idling. When it backfires on an idle it will throw a puff of black smoke. The truck obviously being tuned bit and not stock does smoke but so far through everything nothing that I would necessarily call excessive.

What Ive done so far (Not much)

So I have pulled all of the injector plugs and checked the harness's and have not found anything wore threw/burnt etc.
I pulled the intercooler piping from the cold side and realigned/inspected the silicone couplings for boost leaks. Only because of the way they looked on the piping not necessarily because I thought it was related. I did not find any excess oil inside of the turbo housing or the piping. I did however find that my turbo does have a very small (1/16"-1/8" Maybe?) amount of up and down shaft play. No in and out shaft play. This obviously will need addressed but not sure if related?
I have drained both fuel/water seperators and found nothing abnormal, in hopes of bad fuel. I am about halfway through my second tank since this started.
I have pulled the ICP Sensor plug to see if that was the culprit to no avail. I tried this both on the race tune and street tune. truck would not run and will not run correctly reverted back to stock tuning.

I do not have the capabilities or the special IPR (trick?) harness in order to check for HPO leaks. at this point I am assuming one of three things. The IPR, Bad injector/s, HPO leak.

Now for some numbers. I dont have any cold numbers only hot that I took today on my way home from work. All number come from the SCT tuner

Hot/cruising
IPR duty cycle: .25
ICP: 1200psi
Boost:4-5lb
Injection Pulse Width:1.12
EGTs were around 450F

WOT
IPR:.76
ICP:3800psi
Boost:25lbs
IPW:1.75
EGT:800F

Idle
IPR:.25
ICP:1090
Boost:-.30
IPW:.78
EGT:350F

On an end note my FICM normally sees 47.50-48v and has started to occasionally drop to 47 but never lower. it does not drop when starting. and my batter see a normal 12ish volts KOEO 13ish at start and 13.5-14 once the alternator starts to charge. Im trying to be as transparent and infomative as possible while trying to remember everything that I possibly can that would pertain to this issue. I am sorry if I have forgot anything especially something simple. If any further info is needed ask and I will do my best to get the information. Im trying to not spend a pile of money right now with work being slowed down due to all that is going on so I do not want to just start throwing parts at it. OH and the Tuner and also a generica code reader does not shown ANY codes whatsoever not a misfire, nothing. But the tuner did throw a code for low ICP sensor voltage when I unplugged it to check and see if that was possibly the issue. Thanks in advance for any help it is much appreciated!!!! This is my only vehicle for the time being and my DD to and from work. I also will be posting on multiple forums just so the guys that are members of multiple forums have a heads up and dont reread the same post a million times.
 

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I would start with fuel pressure, also would check the fuel filter setup for how good it is, the stock is 3 or 5 micron if I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have 60lb at the regulator underhood at idle. I do not have the setup to be able to monitor while driving. But if it sounds like a plausible cause I can and will get what I need to monitor it while driving. As far as the filter from what I've read the CAT filters are supposed to be one of the best which was my reason for going to them. It had fleetguards on it. And I far as I can tell the fuel is still run through the factory frame mounted filter so should be getting filtered twice?
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Interesting that your boost is higher at idle (30 psi) than at WOT (25 psi). Looks like a turbo issue to me - at a minimum.

Personally I think you need to download and use ForScan. SCT is NOT a good code reader at all, and I would bet that a "generica" tuner isn't either.

I would bet that you DO have codes ....... and we need to see them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay I was mistaken about the lift pump. It DOES NOT run through the stock frame mounted filter. I apologize for that information.

Sorry about the confusion small text is hard to read, it is not higher at idle that is point negative 30 which is essentially just saying its pulling a vacuum and not making boost.
I am not familiar with forscan? What exactly is that? Software for a computer or??? It very well may have codes I would suppose, but no check engine light and hasn't had one since the day I bought it. But it does function because it self checks on KOEO. Maybe related or unrelated but my tuner SCT can no longer pull a power from the OBD port and has to be powered from the computer wire fed through a plug in in the 12v outlet. The fuse for the cigarette lighter that also powers the OBD port that commonly blows is NOT blown.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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ForScan can be downloaded to a smartphone (ForScan Lite version for $5), or to a Laptop (free). You need an OBDII adapter for it to interface with the PCM. I like the BAFX brand due to its price (apprx $40). WiFi version for iOS, and Bluetooth for Android).

I do not believe you are pulling that kind of vacuum at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will have to look into that. Like I said I'm trying not to spend any unnecessary money. Not that it's unnecessary per say but I'm sure that you can understand.

Is less than half a lb of vacumn not normal? It doesn't seem like much. I wish I could remember what it read on the race tune, but i can't. I wanna say it didn't pull a vacumn at all but I cant remember for sure.
 

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My time to apologize - I didn't see the decimal point. Still I do not believe you are pulling a vacuum, but boost is calculated by subtracting Baro from the MAP sensor reading, so it could just be that one of those sensors is off a little.

Regarding spending money - the scangauge is great for looking at engine parameters, but not for reading codes. You can not work on this motor without good information. Codes are important troubleshooting tools. You wouldn't take your truck in and tell the mechanic to NOT look for codes. I know that is somewhat of a silly way to explain it, but this engine is complicated and you need to have all of the information you can get to troubleshoot. Your call on that though.

I would like to see the VGT readings along with the boost numbers - low idle, high idle, cold and hot. Also at highway speeds and at WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I can set my SCT to read VGT duty cycle? I believe and get you those numbers asap. The trucks been sitting about three hours now. I was just under it a bit ago and its still got some warmth to it but obviously not warm. I can either go get numbers now, or I can wait till I leave for work on the am when it's dead cold and get you numbers whichever you think would be more accurate for what your wanting to see?

As far as codes go, would it be a better idea to buy the software+adaptor or take it to a shop or maybe even the dealer and have them check for codes? Or which would be a cheaper option? I know atleast one shop close by that has a pretty decent/expensive NAPA scan tool. Obviously auto zone or advance probably wouldn't have much better than what I have personally. Not sure about the NAPA computer though?
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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ForScan has proven itself to be a thorough code reader. The dealership will charge $150 to read codes most likely. I have no idea what a parts stores code reader will do.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Seeing the numbers cold would probably be a good start.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay more numbers I will start by saying my WOT and Highway runs arent perfect or exact I live in a rural area that is somewhat hilly so engine load and RPMS especially under WOT werent probably read at the same RPM and speed. as for highway speed both were taken at 55 but again engine load and even throttle position werent exactly the same.

So for cold were looking at 88F coolant and 89F EOT
Idle I seen round abouts -1 on the boost pressure with VGT duty cycle at .74
at highway speeds 5 and .55
WOT 30 and .35

Operating temperature 184F on coolant and 190F on EOT
Idle .-20 and .66
highway 5 and .61
WOT 22 and .27

added also the total MIN and MAX values of both from cold start to shut down I had -1.19 and 31.55 on the boost and 0 and .78 on the VGT I'm sorry this is a little sloppily laid out.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Those numbers don't look bad. I guess you have me leaning towards an injector.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Do you think fuel pressure would come into play at all as previously stated by another member? and would you not be concerned with HPO leaks or any other ideas? I've been thinking injectors myself mainly but I was truly hoping not. Only because I do not know what injectors are in the truck and the only way I could even possibly buy replacements would be to pull the injectors first which leaves me with no vehicle, That and obviously the cost. What would cause the symptoms themselves to come and go? Started out only when cold. Went away completely after oil and fuel filter change then returned out of nowhere to basically end up doing it 99% of the time now? Obviously I know nothing is certain in life and I wouldnt hold anything against anyone for giving their honest opinion and being wrong BUT how "certain" would you say you are that it would be injectors? obviously without any real diagnosis and just going off of some information over the computer? Also would a dealer or quite possibly anyone else be able to determine this through any type of diagnostics? like I said in my original post I'm not expert on anything at all, but Ive heard words about injector buzz tests and things of the like being thrown around in the PS community.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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It very well could. In my opinion the scenario would be low fuel pressure causing an injector to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sounds like I need to get a real diagnostic scan done whether by someone else or with the forscan you suggested previously and get the necessary parts to monitor my fuel pressure on the fly and see where I am at, at that point.
 

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Typically low fuel pressure or bad filters make injectors fail, or fail way faster, missing out happens first.

Being a non standard fuel system it's definitely my first thought. You need to do a heavy pull and see if fuel pressure drops.

Isn't 60 psi too low? I thought factory was 60 and they upped it to 70? Isn't 55 and lower when injector damage can be done?
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Ford stated that below 45 psig injector damage would occur.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well i believe that cfherrman might be on to something. Today at work I got into my truck and could not hear the lift pump prime its obviously extremely noticeable. I KOEO'd it twice and never heard it prime. Was expecting a no start but it did fire up. I drove it about 5 min to a different part of the mill I work at. Shut it off and turned they key back on and you could hear the pump prime. Although I'm not sure if it is a wiring issue (bad connection) or if it is a pump issue and if that could've possibly lead to the burnt connection. At the resistor and not an arcing situation. At this point until things pick up at work im probably gonna have to step back from it for awhile and hope that it is something as simple as the pump and that it hasn't already cause irreversible damage to the injectors but im not counting it. I would say at the very least the pump wiring and possibly even the pump itself are going to need replaced and quite possibly the injectors as well. On top of the turbo needing dealt with and all that at once is definitely not in the funds right now. I will eventually be adding an incab fuel pressure gauge and going with the the forscan and seeing where im at at that point. But it likely won't be anytime in the near near future.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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There is a fuel pressure test port near the fuel pressure regulator that is on the side of the secondary fuel filter housing. You can "rig up" a Schrader valve fitting there and test the pressure with a tire pressure gauge (assuming you have a tire pressure gauge that you know is within a few PSI of being accurate).

Most people ignore the fuel pressure gauge advice (same reason - lack of funds) and keep driving. After a short while, they then have to spend thousands on injectors. It is easy to be pennywise, pound foolish with a 6.0L.

Your call.
 
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