The way I do it is I blow air thru the injector hole before I put the injector in. Put some lube on the o-ring before you install the injector.

 

I've never done so.... this isnt like a 7.3 head where theres a ton of oil and fuel stored in the head. I've done a thousand or so injectors by now...

 

Ok thanks I just wanted to make sure it wasn't like a 7.3 thanks for the info Guys

 

About how long does it take to install all 8 injectors ?

 

If you've never done em before, id say a good 6-7 hours

 

Ok thanks I haven't done them in a 6.0 but have on a 7.3 so hopefully it won't be longer than 6 hrs

 

I mean its not hard by any means, just some of us do this daily and get it done quickly, but I can also remember when I first started and how long it took me, to take some guessing out of the equation, its a t30 for the oil rail bolts, and a t40 for the injector hold downs. The stand pipe will either be a 12 mm, a 10mm or a 1/2 square

 

The oil stand pipe is 1/2 on mine already changed them out had a hpop leak and the t40 needs to be long for the injector hold downs correct or will a normal one fit thanks

 

Did you do the swap with the engine in the truck?

 

I will be doing the Injectors with motor in truck and yes did the hpop and stand pipes in truck

 

I just replaced injector # 3. It's not that bad of a job, a little tedious.

Just keep this in mind:

- The valve cover bolts snap pretty easily. I don't know what the torque spec is on them, but if you tighten them too much they will snap. I should know as I had one snap on me.

I takes some effort to turn over afterwards. The mechanic at the dealer told me to follow this procedure to turn it over after replacing injectors:

- Crank for 10 full seconds, then stop for like 2-3 seconds to give the starter a break. Then repeat. If you are replacing injectors on both banks, then it could take up to 30 full second. It took me about 15 seconds to turn it over after replacing only one injector.

This could be taxing depending on the condition of your batteries and how old they are, etc. Consider using another vechicle and jumper cables to keep you batteries charged during this procedure.

Also, when you drive it around for the first time, you need to purge the system of excess air. Drive your truck at 20 psi on your turbo gauge for a sustained period of time. This will do the trick!

If you are replacing injectors 1,3,5 or 7, your going to need to remove the intercooler pipe. On my test runs after replacing my injector, this pipe popped off a total of 4 times (and believe me, I tighten the hell out of it!) After posting for advice, I was told to use some 1500 grit sand paper and some hairspray was an effective fix. I am about to give it a try.

Good luck! Keep us posted and sorry if I sound like a broken record and you already know this stuff. : )

 

I like to loosen the ICP and rear of the head fuel plugs to remove air from the system. A whole lot less cranking needed.

 

any other tips to reduce cranking? nothing with the high pressure system and oil rails?

 

I did the work start to finish all 8 injectors in 4.5 hrs I filled the high pressure oil rails with oil and cycled the key 4 times to purge out the air in the fuel system and it took two 15 second cranks and it was running

 

I never pull an injector out without draining all the fuel out of the heads first.

Learnt my lesson when I didn't do it once, and the fuel ran into the first injector hole, and hydro locked the block...it's a real pita to pull a glow plug out of an engine that is in the vehicle...
There was enough fuel in my heads and lines to fill the cylinder, and then over fill it to the point of starting to run back into the crankcase...
Needless to say, I had to change the oil after that too.

And by turning the engine over with no injectors installed, and the fuel pump shut off, the fuel coming out of the injector sleeve hole will do severe damage to a person if they are hangin over one of them...
Think about doing the job safely.

 

Anyone got any more tips?

 

I always turn a motor over by hand before cranking to avoid a hydrolock or bending something.