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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since the carrier needs removed, is this a job better left to the pros or is it a pull it out and pop it back in? Also, what is this bit I read about packing the removed carrier in ice? Is that to have it shrink or?
 

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I was able to do it myself and I don't even own a floor jack, I had to borrow a friends. Definitely a job you can do yourself just give yourself plenty of time to do it to figure out all the kinks. It can be done in about 5 or 6 hours but took me about 8 by the time I figured it all out. To remove the carrier I put one pry bar in from the top and another from the bottom and put even pressure on both at the same time and it popped right out with no trouble. I read about putting the carrier in ice too but mine went back in really easily without freezing it. I just pushed it in as much as I could by hand then put the bearing caps on and tightened down both sides evenly to suck it in evenly. To push the seals out I used a long flat head screw driver for the short tube and had a friend line it up on the seal by looking in from the carrier side and hammered it out pretty easily. For the long tube I used a long piece o steel with a chisel end and did the same thing. Feel free to PM me to get my number so I can answer any more questions you have because I just got done doing this last weekend
 

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Mine had no shims, but from what I understand if you do have shims, they will fall out. you just have to make sure they all go back in the same way they came out
 

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The shims are between the carrier and the carrier bearings on a Dana 60. They all have shims of some sort in order to get the correct gear pattern and preload correct. Since the bearings are pressed on there's no way to lose the shims or have them come off.

Just be sure that the bearing caps go back in exactly as they came out. Right side back on the right side as well as the top and bottom in the same orientation. They may already have markings on them to help with that.
 

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Did you go back with the two piece design? Either way, how did you install the new seals? They say you need a special tool...
I went with the national seal pn 710530. To go back in, I used a universal seal driver against the seal. I did the seal on the long side first and used a long screw driver through the short tube to drive against the seal driver. The other side was more difficult, iirc, i used the same seal driver and a small hammer to peck in into place. Freezing the carrier can only make the job easier going back together, but is not necessary in all cases
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
UGGG...of course oreilly gave me the wrong parts. One more bizarre question. There was a huge seal on the axle that had to be forced with the prybar through the steering knuckle with the axle. Is this for the vac hubs that are no longer there? Its probably 4 or 5 inches across and ribbed. Does it go back in? I can't even find it anywhere.
 

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UGGG...of course oreilly gave me the wrong parts. One more bizarre question. There was a huge seal on the axle that had to be forced with the prybar through the steering knuckle with the axle. Is this for the vac hubs that are no longer there? Its probably 4 or 5 inches across and ribbed. Does it go back in? I can't even find it anywhere.
Unless you really butchered it apart it should still be on the axle... The huge part goes in the knuckle but the part that goes on the axle is pressed on, and not coming off without destroying it. And yes it is for the auto hubs but it also keeps water out. So if you switched to manual your 4wd will work without it but lacking that seal how long is anyone's guess
 
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