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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed a set of remanufactured 160cc injectors in my 00 7.3. Yes remanufactured cause money is tight. I put them in last weekend plus the hydra with tunes written for those injectors. Once the system was cleared of any air I was happy with the new install. I was back on the road Sunday no issues made it through Monday happy as a clam then came Tuesday. Out of nowhere the truck started running rough as hell in idle no power what so ever. Limped it back to the house hooked it up and it shot me a p1316 or p1613. I looked it up and it was to about the injectors/harness. Ohm the harness and both banks were where they should be. Pulling the cover and fired it up and oil was only coming out of the #1 and #3 injector deflector. All the rest not a drop. Any idea why? I'm a first time diesel buyer or really a mechanic at that.
 

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Who did you buy the injectors from? The other thing to check is the wiring from the IDM to the connectors on the heads.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Purchased them from Full Force diesel. Thank you for the starting point. Undoing the wheel well now. I'll keep you posted on what the outcome is 👍
 

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So if you are just poking the IDM connector side... you need to find the fuel injector power lines (there will be one for each side). Keep one probe there while moving the other test lead to the pins associated with the individual injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So if you are just poking the IDM connector side... you need to find the fuel injector power lines (there will be one for each side). Keep one probe there while moving the other test lead to the pins associated with the individual injectors.
I ran the test in the plug side that goes to the IDM and everything was right at 3ohms so wiring to the injectors should technically be good right? I tried testing the IDM itself but nothing was coming back.
 

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There are no tests you can do on the IDM itself. Technically yes the wiring should be good... but once you have the engine running things can change. You can try wiggling the wiring while checking the resistance. By FF do you mean Full force diesel? There have been several recent posts (within the last year) that have cast doubt on the quality of FF rebuilds.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There are no tests you can do on the IDM itself. Technically yes the wiring should be good... but once you have the engine running things can change. You can try wiggling the wiring while checking the resistance. By FF do you mean Full force diesel? There have been several recent posts (within the last year) that have cast doubt on the quality of FF rebuilds.
Yes Full Force diesel. Shows you how late I am to the party not knowing the reviews they've been having. I actually purchased them through another diesel store but I guess it was either a middle man or FF operating under a different name to sell products. I'll find out next week cause I bought another IDM through the same diesel store. I already had a shady experience dealing with them. Bought my hydra through them with the "extra" that you pay for. The USB cable for quick tune change $15 or $20. Come to find out a I cant have it hooked up cause it there's a bad connection. It trips my chip and shuts my truck down and the at least the high idle doest work so I had to pull it out. I really hope that a new IDM will fix the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There are no tests you can do on the IDM itself. Technically yes the wiring should be good... but once you have the engine running things can change. You can try wiggling the wiring while checking the resistance. By FF do you mean Full force diesel? There have been several recent posts (within the last year) that have cast doubt on the quality of FF rebuilds.
I ran the checks and everything was good put a new IDM in and the issue remains? From my dash it shows oil pressure. Any other idea?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There are no tests you can do on the IDM itself. Technically yes the wiring should be good... but once you have the engine running things can change. You can try wiggling the wiring while checking the resistance. By FF do you mean Full force diesel? There have been several recent posts (within the last year) that have cast doubt on the quality of FF rebuilds.
There are no tests you can do on the IDM itself. Technically yes the wiring should be good... but once you have the engine running things can change. You can try wiggling the wiring while checking the resistance. By FF do you mean Full force diesel? There have been several recent posts (within the last year) that have cast doubt on the quality of FF rebuilds.
The whole driver side bank isn't firing. Had it running and wiggled the harnesses no change then started to unplug injectors the passenger side is firing but the driver side isn't. I replaced the vch
 

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Any codes? I would very carefully go over all the wiring. You mention that you have replaced the UVCH - How did the wiring harness side connector look? How were the under the valve cover harnesses and connectors? As none of the injectors are working I would suspect something on the common supply line. Either it is open or shorted to ground.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Any codes? I would very carefully go over all the wiring. You mention that you have replaced the UVCH - How did the wiring harness side connector look? How were the under the valve cover harnesses and connectors? As none of the injectors are working I would suspect something on the common supply line. Either it is open or shorted to ground.

Cj
I believe I found the issue. Double checked the injectors and one of the solenoids was bad and shut the whole bank down. I cleared the code un hooked the bad injector and it almost sounded normal aside from one injector firing. Are all the solenoids on top the same just different internals?
 

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That is my understanding - The solenoids are the same and the internals are different. if you have a spare injector you should be able to swap solenoids.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That is my understanding - The solenoids are the same and the internals are different. if you have a spare injector you should be able to swap solenoids.
That's the plan for tomorrow. This thing has driven me up the wall. I just wished I slowed down some. I was rushing to much stressed about work and over looked the solenoid being to low cause I was using a harbor freight tester. I appreciate you helping out with insight. Cause I did check all the wiring back an forth for any type of grounding out but didn't see anything. I'll let you know the outcome tomorrow. Maybe this will help someone else down the road.
 

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I have used all kinds of solenoids so should all work also if your already in there check poppet should have 2 thousandths between it and base
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have used all kinds of solenoids so should all work also if your already in there check poppet should have 2 thousandths between it and base
That would've been great to check while I was in there but didn't unfortunately. I swapped them out and she sounded like a champ after. Sad thing is I have the hydra hooked up and I stalled out on the freeway cause of a bad connection I pulled the chip and put it back in with the key in the on position 😢 yeah that's a big no no so now I think I screwed the pcm up cause now the service engine light stays on
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Does it still run ok just check engine light what is the code?
Crank but no start. The (wait to start) light doesn't come on either. I checked the fuses and non are blown. There is still some power to the pcm cause my hydra switch still lights up and looks like it's functional. No codes. I have a super chips that can read it but nothing is coming up
 

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Wow that's crazy bad luck I'll pray u figure it out if I think of any suggestions I'll get back with you
 
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