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Discussion Starter #1
So, its a long story (see This Thread if you want the whole sob story), but a quick question to the point: if the batteries went dead and took the FICM with them, I assume that I should replace both of those before deciding that an injector (#5) actually needs to be replaced?

(Edited to add: Truck has 64000 miles on it)
 

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did anyone ever check the alternator..... those batteries werent getting charged by it if they went dead that quick. I agree that the dealership should pay for the repair, I would elevate it to the highest level at the dealership...was it a certified used vehicle from them? if you do change the batteries and ficm, i would get a volt meter on that alternator asap or you will be doing it all over again
 

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Discussion Starter #3
did anyone ever check the alternator..... those batteries werent getting charged by it if they went dead that quick. I agree that the dealership should pay for the repair, I would elevate it to the highest level at the dealership...was it a certified used vehicle from them? if you do change the batteries and ficm, i would get a volt meter on that alternator asap or you will be doing it all over again
The ScanGauge shows a system voltage of 14.2 volts when the truck is running, shouldn't that indicate that the alternator is working?
 

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yes, but it never hurts to put a voltmeter on the bolt and find a good ground to see what its putting out. I have had soo many problems with alternators on mine. I knew my batteries were good...and I went thru 2 alternators in less than 24 hours.
 

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FNG
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The ScanGauge shows a system voltage of 14.2 volts when the truck is running, shouldn't that indicate that the alternator is working?
Alternator is good. 6.0s chew up batteries for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Alternator is good. 6.0s chew up batteries for some reason.
Yeah, that I understand. If it were a few months down the line, I would have a lot less of an issue with this that I do at this point. Anyway, what would you do if you had this diagnosis, and you had to pay for it yourself? Would you have the FICM repaired and the batteries replaced, run some RevX, and see if the injector still has an issue, or would you go ahead and replace the "defective" injector? I must say that at this point I don't really TRUST this dealership as it is...so I'm leery of just taking their word that the injector needs to be replaced... I'm still going to be doing my darnedest to get them to pay for this stuff, but gotta have contingency plans to make my heartburn go away and my blood pressure come down... :doh:
 

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I would replace the batteries, have the ficm fixed, then re scan and see if there is still an issue with the injector......then address the injedctor if necessary
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I would replace the batteries, have the ficm fixed, then re scan and see if there is still an issue with the injector......then address the injedctor if necessary
Yeah, I know that low FICM voltage can hurt injectors, but can a bad injector hurt the FICM? Truck hasn't been blow smoke or really even running badly (other than when really cold at start up for ~10-15 seconds)..so I'm even more skeptical of an injector problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
X-posted at Ford-Trucks:

So it looks like the best offer I'm going to get it for them to replace the two batteries and the FICM (not the injector...) for $750, which is ~$175 more than what I figure I could do it for sending the FICM overnight to FICMRepair.com and back and buying two new batteries. I STILL think that they should pay for all of it...but I don't think that they are going to be willing to do so. I think that I will ask to have the old FICM core so that I can have it repaired at some point and have an extra. Do you guys think this is a "fair" deal, or should I fight harder?
 

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FNG
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That deal pretty much sucks honestly. Tell em you called an attorney.
 

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they prolly wont give up the core ficm either...... I know there is usually a core charge on them
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I think that I'm going to call them today and let them know I'm picking the truck up, fixing it myself, and filing a Better Business Bureau complaint. I may tell them that I may contact an attorney, but I'm not going to lie to them and say that I already have..I don't need to stoop to their level. If I'm going to be screwed over, I would just as soon pay someone else to fix the FICM and for batteries than the place that is screwing me.
 

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a 58v or 48v ficm from quick tricks (site sponser) is only 360 dollars, and the batteries shouldnt be more than 250 for the both of them...... and both are very easily done by yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
a 58v or 48v ficm from quick tricks (site sponser) is only 360 dollars, and the batteries shouldnt be more than 250 for the both of them...... and both are very easily done by yourself.
Yep, I think I can handle the wrenching, if I can put long tube headers on the '01 Cobra Mustang I used to have, I think I can replace a couple batteries and unbolt a computer from a bracket! I'm not paying these jerks a ~$350 premium for something I can do myself in an hour or so, especially since it SHOULD cost me $0.

:psnb:
 

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Damnkids Motorsports
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Wally-world has the 850CCA batteries for $90 a piece, so $180 total for those. FICM repair can be done by yourself if your competent at soldering on circuit boards.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wally-world has the 850CCA batteries for $90 a piece, so $180 total for those. FICM repair can be done by yourself if your competent at soldering on circuit boards.
People pretty happy with Wally-world batteries? I really hate buying things from them, but since (like anyone..) I like saving money, I have to sometimes. I'm a mechanical engineer by trade, and I have done SOME soldering before, and if I really wanted to I could probably get one of the electrical engineers at work to do it for me, but I'm okay with paying someone else that knows what they are doing to do it right the first time...as long as they aren't associated with this stupid dealership.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, I hope that this dealership likes having bad reviews online. I just posted my OP (from FTE) almost verbatim (cleaned up a bit for a more general audience) to as many review sites as I could find. We'll see if that gets a response, They pretty much have the weekend to decide to change their minds, as I plan to take the FICM out of the truck on Sunday and get it sent to Ed at FICMrepair.com on Monday. Once that happens, I will file a report at the Better Business Bureau, this kind of stuff should not go unpunished, and maybe bad reviews will send people to OTHER dealerships that AREN'T Stealerships like this one.
 

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Have you gotten your ficm repaired? I think mine is going out, when I tow the injector voltage is low and the check engine light comes on. I have a hard time starting it in the cold, car hesitate a bit and my mpg went from 15-8mpg

What do you guys think I should do?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I got the FICM out of the truck last night, wasn't a particularly difficult job. I was planning to send it out today to Ed at FICMrepair.com, but I didn't grab my checkbook off the kitchen table this morning, so it looks like I will have to delay sending it out for another day. I will let you know when I get it back. Your symptoms seem indicative of FICM failure to me...but I'm sure someone more experience than myself will chime in at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
x-post from FTE to wrap this thread up:

Just wanted to wrap this thread up with the conclusion. I sent my FICM to Ed at FICMRepair.com, which I just received and installed today along with two new batteries from Tractor Supply. So $225 + $89.99 x 2 =$405...much less than the $750 that those jerks at the dealership wanted to charge me. The FICM voltage is reading a steady 48+ volts, and now that the truck is running RIGHT, it is pretty obvious that it was NOT running right from the day I purchased it. I also replaced the thermostat and it went from a maximum coolant temperature in the low 180s to steady at 190, which is much much better. Word to the wise, Andy Mohr Ford in Plainfield, IN doesn't know the FIRST THING about diesels, do NOT buy anything from them or take your vehicle there for service or repair...and if you have an issue, they WILL NOT stand behind their product appropriately. I'm glad my truck is now running, and chalk me up as another happy customer of Ed at FICMrepair.com, but it should have been like this from day ONE. Lesson learned: not only use a ScanGauge before you purchase a vehicle, but MAKE SURE you understand that FICM voltage should be measured at key on (glow plugs on), during cranking, and at WOT, not just at idle or cruising, I can almost guarantee that I would have caught this before I bought it if I had been a bit more careful. Also: don't trust a dealership just because they are a large Ford franchise, ALWAYS have healthy skepticism. Oh well, good life lesson, right??
 
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