[Jpchaos]

What was relay #2? Also, unplug the Injector Pressure Control (IPC) sensor [front left head oil-rail] and see what happens.

Ford diesels get cranky about their sensors. Pull the plug from the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and check the wiring.

One "issue" (my term) with the Ford wiring is that the wire can be broken inside the insulation but the insulation looks okay. A sharp bend will be all it shows. [Unlike my GM experience where the insulation cracks and breaks off so you have phantom shorts everywhere.]

Carefully cleaning and checking each of the sensor wires will go a long way.

Relay 2 is an idm relay. When I swapped the IPC, I did the pig tail too. In the dark, so now I wonder if I wired it wrong. Gonna try to find the old plug in the trash this morning. I'll try unplugging it tonight. Thanks again for all the help.

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[Bugman]

With all the work and trying to start that you have done what is the battery voltage when trying to start?

It needs to stay at 10+ volts for the PCM to activate. The engine may not be turning over fast enough.

 

[Jpchaos]

With all the work and trying to start that you have done what is the battery voltage when trying to start?

It needs to stay at 10+ volts for the PCM to activate. The engine may not be turning over fast enough.

It's hooked to a charger, everything is reading 100%.

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[scotty.vincent]

Welcome to PSN! @Jpchaos

I hope you got an OBDII and will be using FORScan! As @Patrick Feeley said, "Hopefully the code reader is compatible with our trucks as most generic readers won't read these trucks. "

1. Get FORScan scanning software for Fords (free) and an OBDII reader. Greatest troubleshooting tool ever!

3. Come back with the codes. Lots and lots of smart people here!

As a newer (Sep 2021) diesel owner, I have been down a very long road to get here today. Most of my effort was 'ByMyself' 101, then PowerstrokeNation, videos by others like Ron and Powerstrokehelper.com, I have made it to learning about troubleshooting future issues. I am happy to attest what Jax has stated about 'lots of smart people here', and while some are more 'PS Smart' (Jax for example), we all learn and have some opportunity to help.

FORScan is a life-saver and even if you just get the free version, you get alot, but the paid version is cheap as well.

Watching and learning, anxious to see the outcome of your troubles.

 

[Jpchaos]

Update ....No luck with the cps sensor. Gonna trace those wires tomorrow and make sure there's not a brake.

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[Jpchaos]

Alrighty........I thought I knew how to work a multimeter. Lol. Went to test my uvch, glowplugs, and injectors. The only way I get a reading at all on this thing is on the OHM 200 SETTING. Then the decimal is in the wrong place (I think). I'm sure I'm just having a brain farther here due to the festivities last night. Anyway.....I know my gp's should be reading under 2 ohms, I'm getting readings of like between .24 and .30. Now assuming my decimal is just one position over that would put me at 2.4 - 3.0. Right?

If that's the case all my glo plugs are bad and would explain why this thing absolutely refuses to start in temps under about 40° unless it's plugged in. Also had another guy tell me that bad gp's can damage uvch . So my second or third (idk) question is how likely is it that my brand new (installed mid September) harness burnt up after only 3 months. And would a faulty or damaged harness explain my initial symptoms and the eventual no start issue I'm currently fighting with?

Thanks again guys!

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[1970something]

since the lowest setting on your meter is 200 ohms, you are reading .24 -.3 like the meter shows.
usually if the glow plugs are bad the computer will activate the GPR, than shut it off when it senses a short.
are you seeing voltage on the output of the GPR on cold engine with key in run position?

 

[Patrick Feeley]

How long are you waiting for the plugs to heat? Note that the Wait-To-Start (WTS) light is just a reminder to wait and not an indicator of when the plugs are active. The plug will remain ON for around 1.5 minutes after the key is turned to WTS. To check the glowplug relay (GPR), measure the voltage drop across the GPR's large terminals. While the GPR is active (around 1.5 minutes after the key is turned to Wait-to-Start) put your meter leads on the large terminals (one lead on one large terminal and the other lead on the other large terminal). This measures how much voltage is being "lost" across the relay. A reading of 0.3V or more indicates a bad relay. Also, check the relay’s control wires (smaller wires) disconnected from the relay for battery voltage at the Red/Light Green striped wire and ground at the Purple/Orange striped wire (check both when the key is turned to Wait-to-Start). Cheers!

 

[Jpchaos]

I'll check that today.

I thought I found the issue last night. Back when all this started and I was changing the IPC and ipr I noticed a small short(It arked)in the pig harness for the original fuel bowl wiring. I assumed that was what blew the fuse and taped it up real well. Well yesterday I got to wondering about the pigtail for the ipr. I disconnected it at both ends and pulled that section of harness into the garage. The wires inside the ipr plug were melted and there were hot spots and exposed wire all the way down through the loom. So I went and picked up a new pigtail and disassembled the big plug that connects to the harness on passenger side. I rebuilt that section with new wire and pigtail, and deleted the stuff for the fuel bowl. So there I was after my ah ha moment anticipating the sound of my truck roaring back to life .......and nothing lol. Fixed a short though. Now I wonder if that ipr isn't bad after being plugged into the shorted harness.

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[Patrick Feeley]

Is there 12V at the IPR harness plug with the key ON? Cheers!

 

[Jpchaos]

Is there 12V at the IPR harness plug with the key ON? Cheers!

I'll check now

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[Jpchaos]

Is there 12V at the IPR harness plug with the key ON? Cheers!

Yep, I have voltage at the ipr. Looking like I'm just stuck waiting on the code reader. Lol.

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[Jpchaos]

I also retested all my glowplugs and gp system (not hung over) and it all seems perfect. Traced the wires for the cps as best I can and can't find any damage. Checked uvch for burnt or damaged pins and it all looks great. Tested fuel pressure again and it's sitting at 65psi. Checked all my fuses again and nothing. Bench tested all my relays, all work fine. I'm getting worried it's gonna be the idm, but based on what I've read ... symptoms don't seem to match. However it has been exceptionally cold and wet here the last month or so.

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[Jax]

I'm getting worried it's gonna be the idm, but based on what I've read ... symptoms don't seem to match. However it has been exceptionally cold and wet here the last month or so.

IDMs don't go out often.

Electrical shorts play havoc. Do you know when you will get your code reader? Are you using a phone or a laptop?

 

[Jpchaos]

IDMs don't go out often.

Electrical shorts play havoc. Do you know when you will get your code reader? Are you using a phone or a laptop?

It should be here this week, probably Friday. I can do either. So far I've only bought the android version of forescan, but I'll probably get the Microsoft one too.

The reader part is compatible with both.

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[Jax]

@bismic1 wrote this. Excellent advice! You can put the FORScan in demo mode to set up the dashboard. Look at the part with the cranking data and other info.

All 6,0L diesel owners need to be able to get ALL codes and monitor the system when there is a problem.​
I suggest downloading ForScan (full version for a laptop) or ForScan Lite (for a smartphone) ..... and using the OBDLink MX+ or the BAFX adapter for troubleshooting 6.0L engine problems. The smartphone downloads are $6 or so. You do not need to buy the license for troubleshooting with the full version. That is only for advanced programming. The PC version is the most powerful and does the injector "click test" among other tests​
You do not need the license for troubleshooting - only for advanced programming.​
The BAFX adapter is the least expensive ($35 or so) and a reliable adapter -- compare it to the MX+, which is smaller, faster and more features (around $140).​
When purchasing BAFX adapters (do not use their software, if they come with it).​
* WiFi for iOs​
* BlueTooth for Android​
The PC version is the most powerful and does the "click test" and other tests - you do not need the license for troubleshooting, only for advanced programming:​
ForScan Home​
FORScan Home​
Download ForScan:​
FORScan Home​
For the Windows laptop, you should buy the OBDII to USB adapter (OBDLink EX).​
OBDLink® EX - OBD2 Adapter For ELM327 & FORScan​
OBDLink MX+ for iOS, OR for Android:​
OBDLink® MX+ - Outstanding Bluetooth-Compatible OBD II Scan Tool​
BAFX WiFi for iOS:​
Amazon.com​
or (VGate VLinker FD+ for iOS):​
Amazon.com​
BAFX Bluetooth for Android:​
BAFX Products® - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Reader / Scanner for Android Devices​
or (VGate VLinker FD for Android):​
Amazon.com​
Cranking data, when it will not start, is very helpful:​	Codes?​
rpm (cranking)​
Cam/Crank Sync​
FICM Sync​
FICM MPower​
FICM LPower​
Fuel Pulse Width​
ICP sensor volts​
ICP pressure​
IPR % Duty Cycle​
v-reference voltage​
Also advised - check pressure data (KOEO):​
MAP​
EBP​
Baro​
Also advised - check temperature data (KOEO), with a totally cold engine (10 hrs off time):​
IAT1​
IAT2​
ECT​
EOT​
TFT​
Turbo data at cold idle (to start with):​
VGT % Duty Cycle​
MAF (gs/sec)​

 

[Jpchaos]

@bismic1 wrote this. Excellent advice! You can put the FORScan in demo mode to set up the dashboard. Look at the part with the cranking data and other info.

All 6,0L diesel owners need to be able to get ALL codes and monitor the system when there is a problem.​
I suggest downloading ForScan (full version for a laptop) or ForScan Lite (for a smartphone) ..... and using the OBDLink MX+ or the BAFX adapter for troubleshooting 6.0L engine problems. The smartphone downloads are $6 or so. You do not need to buy the license for troubleshooting with the full version. That is only for advanced programming. The PC version is the most powerful and does the injector "click test" among other tests​
You do not need the license for troubleshooting - only for advanced programming.​
The BAFX adapter is the least expensive ($35 or so) and a reliable adapter -- compare it to the MX+, which is smaller, faster and more features (around $140).​
When purchasing BAFX adapters (do not use their software, if they come with it).​
* WiFi for iOs​
* BlueTooth for Android​
The PC version is the most powerful and does the "click test" and other tests - you do not need the license for troubleshooting, only for advanced programming:​
ForScan Home​
FORScan Home​
Download ForScan:​
FORScan Home​
For the Windows laptop, you should buy the OBDII to USB adapter (OBDLink EX).​
OBDLink EX - OBD2 Adapter For ELM327 & FORScan​
OBDLink MX+ for iOS, OR for Android:​
OBDLink MX+ - Outstanding Bluetooth-Compatible OBD II Scan Tool​
BAFX WiFi for iOS:​
Amazon.com​
or (VGate VLinker FD+ for iOS):​
Amazon.com​
BAFX Bluetooth for Android:​
BAFX Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Reader / Scanner for Android Devices​
or (VGate VLinker FD for Android):​
Amazon.com​
Cranking data, when it will not start, is very helpful:​	Codes?​
rpm (cranking)​
Cam/Crank Sync​
FICM Sync​
FICM MPower​
FICM LPower​
Fuel Pulse Width​
ICP sensor volts​
ICP pressure​
IPR % Duty Cycle​
v-reference voltage​
Also advised - check pressure data (KOEO):​
MAP​
EBP​
Baro​
Also advised - check temperature data (KOEO), with a totally cold engine (10 hrs off time):​
IAT1​
IAT2​
ECT​
EOT​
TFT​
Turbo data at cold idle (to start with):​
VGT % Duty Cycle​
MAF (gs/sec)​

I ordered the vLinker fd+. Says it's for forescan. Wasn't particularly expensive.

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[Jax]

I ordered the vLinker fd+. Says it's for forescan. Wasn't particularly expensive.

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Yes, I remember.

Please see lower in bismic1's post about items to put in the dashboard. That is how you get the cranking info.

 

[bismic1]

lol - Vlinker FD+ was in my post, and I got it off of the ForScan web site (for iOs), so there is little doubt it will work.

 

[Jpchaos]

Yes, I remember.

Please see lower in bismic1's post about items to put in the dashboard. That is how you get the cranking info.

Oh, I see now. Thanks again boss.

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