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I'm stumped

2062 Views 63 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  JCart
To preface....I'm waiting for my code reader to show up, but figured it won't hurt to get this started.

I was heading to work when I lost throttle response for about 10 seconds.....then it abruptly all came back online. After that I tossed a new tps in. Truck ran a Lil rough for the next feways. Had a few sputters at rev and she fell on her face at an idle a few times. (It happens to be the coldest week of the year up here) I assumed I was having issues with gelling. This went on for a few days. I got to work Wednesday morning and shut my truck off. It will not restart. I have confirmed I'm getting fuel.

I've checked my oil both on the stick and in the hpop. I replaced icp and pigtail, then the ipr valve . Then thought maybe it was the cps. I read on here that in the obs as a quick check for the cps, when you crank the truck over the tach should move. But I'm curious about how much? I mean should It be reading rpm, or just a faint bump.

Outside temp has come up to high 30s into 40s since all this started last week.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks

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Is the CEL illuminated? Does the Wait-To-Start light come on? What's your fuel pressure when cranking? It needs to be a minimum of 25 psi at a minimum crank speed of 100 rpm. I would get a new OEM CPS and replace it. If it doesn't solve the problem, you at least have a spare for the glovebox. Hopefully the code reader is compatible with our trucks as most generic readers won't read these trucks. Cheers!
Lol, I guess it would be helpful if I would have included that. The cel came on when the throttle died that first day. But it didn't stay on. The wts light comes on and gp's seem to be working. I did have a blown fuse (#3 -30amp) but I think that's unrelated. The tach barely wiggles during cranking, I put in new aftermarket cps, but ordered a few of the "gray purple" oem ones. Sounds like I'm dead in the water till the scanner and cps get here. Noticed that relay 2 controls idm , so I might toss a relay in tonight. The truck had a glove box full of spare relays when I bought it, maybe PO knows something I dont.

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I've got a regulated return system, fuel pressure is at 60 psi when cranking.

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Welcome to PSN! @Jpchaos

I hope you got an OBDII and will be using FORScan! As @Patrick Feeley said, "Hopefully the code reader is compatible with our trucks as most generic readers won't read these trucks. "

1. Get FORScan scanning software for Fords (free) and an OBDII reader. Greatest troubleshooting tool ever!

2. DO NOT throw parts at it . . . if you must, then make them Motorcraft parts. Ford diesels are quite particular about their sensors.

3. Come back with the codes. Lots and lots of smart people here!

Your signs sort of, kind of, remind me of a truck that wants to go into limp mode. It could be anything causing that, from the cold weather to wiring to sensor going bad. Please tell us about your truck, mileage, background, transmission, etc.

What you can do while waiting for the ? code reader -- Can you plug your block heater in? Can you put a heat source near the front bumper so the heat goes to the engine? Have a a gel-preventative additive? Rule out the simple stuff [It's too freaking cold!] first.
Per your advice on my intro post I bought the forscan and the reader that was listed in the link. Block heater is plugged in and engine is warm. I've had the truck since July. 95 f350 7.3 5spd manual. Crew cab 4x4. 325000ish on the truck 125000 on motor. The PO was great at oil changes (have recipes) but sucked on all other routine maintenance. I've been slowly going through it. I don't run a gel additive as the fuel is treated this time of year. Also popped a line off the regulator and it's definitely getting fuel. I replaced the hpop lines in July and and the fuel pump(rail mounted) and uvch in September. That's all I can think of, so please ask more questions.


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Please reconsider this statement.

According tohttps://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-f-150-1992-1997-fuses-and-relay

#3 - 30A is the Idle position switch (Diesel) fuse.

Also, consider, why did it blow? Look at the associated wiring - something may have worn through and shorted. Trust me, that can screw you up for a while.
I believe it was a short from the original fuel bowl heater that caused that to blow, but could be wrong. I've re taped all the wires and replaces the fuse.

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Dang it, I thought your UserID was familiar! I couldn't find the post, though.

So that's the code reader you are waiting for? Good on you. But, we do need the codes.

When you search for the codes, use a term like Ford Super Duty code A#### because you can get some weird responses sometimes.
Yep that's the one

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By the way, do you have schematics? If not, consider this:


I bought his 99-01 schematics. They are in .pdf form and easy to use. $3.95. He emails them to you.

I paid $180 and $260 for the Ford books. They aren't as good.
Done


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I really appreciate all the help guys!

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Also worth mentioning only as a gripe really.......since I got this truck the engine temp Guage hasn't read normal. It stays within the block on the far left. Just figured it doesn't work and added it to my "to do" list.

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Check your ebay messages. He will ask for the email address he is to send to.
I included it in the memo, but will do. Thanks.

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Update....got home kinda late last night, swapped out that #2 relay and checked all the fuses . 22 was questionable but not blown, so I swapped it out. Still nothing, although the tach does seem to move a Lil more wile cranking. I am beginning to fear I have a bad ground or a busted wire somewhere.

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What was relay #2? Also, unplug the Injector Pressure Control (IPC) sensor [front left head oil-rail] and see what happens.

Ford diesels get cranky about their sensors. Pull the plug from the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and check the wiring.

One "issue" (my term) with the Ford wiring is that the wire can be broken inside the insulation but the insulation looks okay. A sharp bend will be all it shows. [Unlike my GM experience where the insulation cracks and breaks off so you have phantom shorts everywhere.]

Carefully cleaning and checking each of the sensor wires will go a long way.
Relay 2 is an idm relay. When I swapped the IPC, I did the pig tail too. In the dark, so now I wonder if I wired it wrong. Gonna try to find the old plug in the trash this morning. I'll try unplugging it tonight. Thanks again for all the help.

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With all the work and trying to start that you have done what is the battery voltage when trying to start?

It needs to stay at 10+ volts for the PCM to activate. The engine may not be turning over fast enough.
It's hooked to a charger, everything is reading 100%.

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Update ....No luck with the cps sensor. Gonna trace those wires tomorrow and make sure there's not a brake.

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Alrighty........I thought I knew how to work a multimeter. Lol. Went to test my uvch, glowplugs, and injectors. The only way I get a reading at all on this thing is on the OHM 200 SETTING. Then the decimal is in the wrong place (I think). I'm sure I'm just having a brain farther here due to the festivities last night. Anyway.....I know my gp's should be reading under 2 ohms, I'm getting readings of like between .24 and .30. Now assuming my decimal is just one position over that would put me at 2.4 - 3.0. Right?

If that's the case all my glo plugs are bad and would explain why this thing absolutely refuses to start in temps under about 40° unless it's plugged in. Also had another guy tell me that bad gp's can damage uvch . So my second or third (idk) question is how likely is it that my brand new (installed mid September) harness burnt up after only 3 months. And would a faulty or damaged harness explain my initial symptoms and the eventual no start issue I'm currently fighting with?

Thanks again guys!


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I'll check that today.

I thought I found the issue last night. Back when all this started and I was changing the IPC and ipr I noticed a small short(It arked)in the pig harness for the original fuel bowl wiring. I assumed that was what blew the fuse and taped it up real well. Well yesterday I got to wondering about the pigtail for the ipr. I disconnected it at both ends and pulled that section of harness into the garage. The wires inside the ipr plug were melted and there were hot spots and exposed wire all the way down through the loom. So I went and picked up a new pigtail and disassembled the big plug that connects to the harness on passenger side. I rebuilt that section with new wire and pigtail, and deleted the stuff for the fuel bowl. So there I was after my ah ha moment anticipating the sound of my truck roaring back to life .......and nothing lol. Fixed a short though. Now I wonder if that ipr isn't bad after being plugged into the shorted harness.

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Is there 12V at the IPR harness plug with the key ON? Cheers!
I'll check now

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Is there 12V at the IPR harness plug with the key ON? Cheers!
Yep, I have voltage at the ipr. Looking like I'm just stuck waiting on the code reader. Lol.

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I also retested all my glowplugs and gp system (not hung over) and it all seems perfect. Traced the wires for the cps as best I can and can't find any damage. Checked uvch for burnt or damaged pins and it all looks great. Tested fuel pressure again and it's sitting at 65psi. Checked all my fuses again and nothing. Bench tested all my relays, all work fine. I'm getting worried it's gonna be the idm, but based on what I've read ... symptoms don't seem to match. However it has been exceptionally cold and wet here the last month or so.

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IDMs don't go out often.

Electrical shorts play havoc. Do you know when you will get your code reader? Are you using a phone or a laptop?
It should be here this week, probably Friday. I can do either. So far I've only bought the android version of forescan, but I'll probably get the Microsoft one too.

The reader part is compatible with both.

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