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I'm stumped

2071 Views 63 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  JCart
To preface....I'm waiting for my code reader to show up, but figured it won't hurt to get this started.

I was heading to work when I lost throttle response for about 10 seconds.....then it abruptly all came back online. After that I tossed a new tps in. Truck ran a Lil rough for the next feways. Had a few sputters at rev and she fell on her face at an idle a few times. (It happens to be the coldest week of the year up here) I assumed I was having issues with gelling. This went on for a few days. I got to work Wednesday morning and shut my truck off. It will not restart. I have confirmed I'm getting fuel.

I've checked my oil both on the stick and in the hpop. I replaced icp and pigtail, then the ipr valve . Then thought maybe it was the cps. I read on here that in the obs as a quick check for the cps, when you crank the truck over the tach should move. But I'm curious about how much? I mean should It be reading rpm, or just a faint bump.

Outside temp has come up to high 30s into 40s since all this started last week.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

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Welcome to PSN! @Jpchaos

I hope you got an OBDII and will be using FORScan! As @Patrick Feeley said, "Hopefully the code reader is compatible with our trucks as most generic readers won't read these trucks. "

1. Get FORScan scanning software for Fords (free) and an OBDII reader. Greatest troubleshooting tool ever!

2. DO NOT throw parts at it . . . if you must, then make them Motorcraft parts. Ford diesels are quite particular about their sensors.

3. Come back with the codes. Lots and lots of smart people here!

Your signs sort of, kind of, remind me of a truck that wants to go into limp mode. It could be anything causing that, from the cold weather to wiring to sensor going bad. Please tell us about your truck, mileage, background, transmission, etc.

What you can do while waiting for the ? code reader -- Can you plug your block heater in? Can you put a heat source near the front bumper so the heat goes to the engine? Have a a gel-preventative additive? Rule out the simple stuff [It's too freaking cold!] first.
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I did have a blown fuse (#3 -30amp) but I think that's unrelated.
Please reconsider this statement.

According to Fuse Box Diagram Ford F-150 / F-250 / F-350 (1992-1997)

#3 - 30A is the Idle position switch (Diesel) fuse.

Also, consider, why did it blow? Look at the associated wiring - something may have worn through and shorted. Trust me, that can screw you up for a while.
Per your advice on my intro post I bought the forscan and the reader that was listed in the link. Block heater is plugged in and engine is warm. I've had the truck since July. 95 f350 7.3 5spd manual. Crew cab 4x4. 325000ish on the truck 125000 on motor. The PO was great at oil changes (have recipes) but sucked on all other routine maintenance. I've been slowly going through it. I don't run a gel additive as the fuel is treated this time of year. Also popped a line off the regulator and it's definitely getting fuel. I replaced the hpop lines in July and and the fuel pump(rail mounted) and uvch in September. That's all I can think of, so please ask more questions.
Dang it, I thought your UserID was familiar! I couldn't find the post, though.

So that's the code reader you are waiting for? Good on you. But, we do need the codes.

When you search for the codes, use a term like Ford Super Duty code A#### because you can get some weird responses sometimes.
By the way, do you have schematics? If not, consider this:

I bought his 99-01 schematics. They are in .pdf form and easy to use. $3.95. He emails them to you.

I paid $180 and $260 for the Ford books. They aren't as good.
Check your ebay messages. He will ask for the email address he is to send to.
I don't know if this will work for you, but out of my 1999 manual:
Font Circle Number Rectangle Document

Most gauges / sensors work this way.

So, check the resistance of the sensor when cold.
Check ^^ again when it is warmed up.

Test the gauge -- find a resister greater than the resistance of the warmed up truck -- like, if it was 16,000 find a 20k resister. Put that between the two wires of the plug. See if the gauge shows higher.

If the gauge shows higher, you need to replace the temp sensor. If the gauge does not show higher . . .

Well, you could try moving the needle on the gauge spindle to the 1/3 mark on the gauge. Not sure how hard it is to replace a gauge.
See less See more home kinda late last night, swapped out that #2 relay and checked all the fuses . 22 was questionable but not blown, so I swapped it out. Still nothing, although the tach does seem to move a Lil more wile cranking. I am beginning to fear I have a bad ground or a busted wire somewhere.

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What was relay #2? Also, unplug the Injector Pressure Control (IPC) sensor [front left head oil-rail] and see what happens.

Ford diesels get cranky about their sensors. Pull the plug from the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and check the wiring.

One "issue" (my term) with the Ford wiring is that the wire can be broken inside the insulation but the insulation looks okay. A sharp bend will be all it shows. [Unlike my GM experience where the insulation cracks and breaks off so you have phantom shorts everywhere.]

Carefully cleaning and checking each of the sensor wires will go a long way.
I'm getting worried it's gonna be the idm, but based on what I've read ... symptoms don't seem to match. However it has been exceptionally cold and wet here the last month or so.
IDMs don't go out often.

Electrical shorts play havoc. Do you know when you will get your code reader? Are you using a phone or a laptop?
@bismic1 wrote this. Excellent advice! You can put the FORScan in demo mode to set up the dashboard. Look at the part with the cranking data and other info.

All 6,0L diesel owners need to be able to get ALL codes and monitor the system when there is a problem.
I suggest downloading ForScan (full version for a laptop) or ForScan Lite (for a smartphone) ..... and using the OBDLink MX+ or the BAFX adapter for troubleshooting 6.0L engine problems. The smartphone downloads are $6 or so. You do not need to buy the license for troubleshooting with the full version. That is only for advanced programming.
The PC version is the most powerful and does the injector "click test" among other tests​
You do not need the license for troubleshooting - only for advanced programming.​
The BAFX adapter is the least expensive ($35 or so) and a reliable adapter -- compare it to the MX+, which is smaller, faster and more features (around $140).​
When purchasing BAFX adapters (do not use their software, if they come with it).​
* WiFi for iOs​
* BlueTooth for Android​
The PC version is the most powerful and does the "click test" and other tests - you do not need the license for troubleshooting, only for advanced programming:​
ForScan Home​
Download ForScan:​
For the Windows laptop, you should buy the OBDII to USB adapter (OBDLink EX).​
OBDLink MX+ for iOS, OR for Android:​
BAFX WiFi for iOS:​
or (VGate VLinker FD+ for iOS):​
BAFX Bluetooth for Android:​
or (VGate VLinker FD for Android):​
Cranking data, when it will not start, is very helpful:
rpm (cranking)​
Cam/Crank Sync​
FICM Sync​
FICM MPower​
FICM LPower​
Fuel Pulse Width​
ICP sensor volts​
ICP pressure​
IPR % Duty Cycle​
v-reference voltage​
Also advised - check pressure data (KOEO):​
Also advised - check temperature data (KOEO),
with a totally cold engine (10 hrs off time):
Turbo data at cold idle (to start with):
VGT % Duty Cycle​
MAF (gs/sec)​
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I ordered the vLinker fd+. Says it's for forescan. Wasn't particularly expensive.

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Yes, I remember.

Please see lower in bismic1's post about items to put in the dashboard. That is how you get the cranking info.
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