Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. I haven't been on here since 2013 when I got rid of my 2007 F350 and swore I would never own another diesel pickup.
Well, I have another 6.0L again, LOL. Just bought a 2007 F550 4X4. The motor has gotten the head studs and since it is registered and licensed as commercial, this one is not EGR deleted like I had done to my old one. But it has the updated heavy duty coolers. (so I was told?)

So I'll probably be needing some refreshers since I forgot most of what I had learned about these motors.

It appears to still have the Motorcraft Gold coolant in it. Is it still a good idea to get rid of that and switch to something else?

And I'll have to remember how to use and read my Scan Gauge II that I kept from my F350. Do the codes erase from them when they have sat unused for years not powered up?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here it is. I whited out the previous owners name on the doors as I haven't had time to remove the decals yet.

It's got a 12 foot deck, Boss 9 foot vee plow, a V-Mac under hood air compressor and a polished aluminum fuel transfer tank/tool box that goes on the deck.

I didn't need anything like this, but the price was right. And it will make a good truck for hauling implements and pulling my farm tractors around.

It's mechanically sound but needs lots of little cosmetic stuff like some wiring fixed, dash lights out, etc.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,569 Posts
I'm not familiar enough with the 450's and up class, so I don't know if they got different parts than the 350 and 250 or not. However, from what I have read, most everything is the same...though I have heard the emissions equipment was different. I just don't know how. I don't want to dismiss your questions, but a lot of what you're wanting to know can be found with a quick search. Probably look for the term bulletproof or new truck, and in those posts you'll find what you're looking for. However, just to cover some of the items.......

Using a OBD-II adapter (bluetooth for Android and wifi for iPhone...don't skimp, get a good one) and an app like TorquePro or FORScan, check for codes and look them up. Yes, you have the scangauge, but it misses a bunch of stuff that FORScan catches. That should begin to tell you a story. Next, check the coolant and oil temps when the engine has been sitting for a good 8-10 hours. They should be identical, or a degree or two off, but no more than that.....and they should pretty closely match what the outside temp is. Once you know those are good, check your oil temp deltas when the truck is fully warmed up and driving 55-60 MPH. Your gearing might throw this off a little, because a higher revving engine will give higher oil temps, but you shouldn't see more than a 15 degree difference. If so, you may have a clogged oil cooler. If you do, you'll want to do a reverse cooling system flush with Restore followed by an oil cooler replacement. After that, go with an EC-1 rated ELC coolant. Oh yeah, and a coolant filter.

Another thing, you have the studs, so that's good, but you don't know if the STC fitting, dummy plugs, or stand pipes were updated. I'd ask the previous owner to see if they know. If they got work done at a garage, that garage might keep vehicle histories and be able to tell you what work was done. How old are the injectors? Do they have stiction? If so, try a lighter, full synthetic oil like Rotella T-6 5W-30. If that doesn't work, or if the stiction is exceptionally bad, get some Archoil 9100 and pour it in. That will take care of all but the worst injectors. Ummmm.....electrical is key with these trucks. If the batteries are 4-5 years old you will likely want to get new ones. I recommend AGM style. Also, with one of the apps, check your FICM voltage both running and when cranking. It should never go below 45 volts. If it does, it's time for a new one. Best bet is having it repaired by FICMrepair.com. I also like to get an HO alternator to make sure things charge well. What else? hmmm.....how about clean the turbo. The vanes stick if it's full of carbon, so a cleaning might be in order. Get rid of any fancy filters like K&N. Factory is more than enough airflow for even a modified motor, and it filters best.

I'm sure there are things I've missed, but this is a good starting list. Other than that, I would drain and refill all fluids with a known, preferred product, lube up the u-joints and steering knuckles, etc, and just go over everything and tend to her needs. A plow truck usually has a pretty hard life, so she's going to need some TLC for a bit until you can get a good feel for her.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Weatherlite. All I do know is it runs beautifully. Doesn't smoke at all. And my friend that had the motor built passed away from cancer.
It has a complete brand new exhaust, including the catalytic converter. All kinds of new parts in the front suspension. And they rewired the full trailer wiring.

But I'll have to sort out a bunch of little stuff like it is showing the TBC fault, and the door ajar massage even though the door is shut tight. And if you hit the right bump, the right way the dash lights and speedo and odo will quit then come back on.

I'm just going to start picking through it one thing at a time. I want this one to be a keeper. I have enough emissions issues with my big trucks....I'm certainly never going to buy a newer pickup with a DPF.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,569 Posts
Electrical gremlins can be a pain, so good luck with those! You may want to consider having your gauge cluster sent off for repair if you can't find a wiring issue. Those control a lot more than just the cluster itself, and if yours is on and off it may be the cluster which is causing the issue and not the wiring. I recently re-soldered mine myself and so far (knock on wood) I haven't had any more issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,395 Posts
I don't have a 6.0 but I do have a boss V plow.... man oh man what a beast!
Plowing snow with the V is wicked cool, can stack snow really really high and it can open roads that would otherwise be impassable. I have a 86 F250 with a 472 (punched out 460) and we get ALOT of snow here, the V and the big block will throw snow and widen roads like you have never seen a plow do before. I love it.

The plow is worth $7500-9000 on it's own, welcome back to PSN :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I don't have a 6.0 but I do have a boss V plow.... man oh man what a beast!
Plowing snow with the V is wicked cool, can stack snow really really high and it can open roads that would otherwise be impassable. I have a 86 F250 with a 472 (punched out 460) and we get ALOT of snow here, the V and the big block will throw snow and widen roads like you have never seen a plow do before. I love it.

The plow is worth $7500-9000 on it's own, welcome back to PSN :)
A brand new Boss 9 foot vee here in Northern Ontario Canada is just over $12,000!!

The plow was a bonus. I didn't even know it came with the truck. I have Kubota and an Allis Chalmers that do my snow removal.

I'd like to have your motor 410customs. I've owned mid 70's 460's in the past. Awesome motor. Big torque.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top