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hit n miss
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549 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A few weeks ago I helped my neighbor put a new water pump on his PSD powered irrigation pump. The dealer we got the pump from also had the one w/ a coolant filter as part of the pump so I went back and bought it. I put it in yesterday, here are some pics.



Here it is on the motor. I put a piece of threaded rod in the extra boss then milled it all flush. Also milled off the raised casting number. I used stainless bolts and since I couldn't get flanged head in metric, I made up some washers from 5/8 304 bar stock..


Here are the fittings for the expansion tank and heater return. I got steel 45° fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose, they are stronger and way cheaper than the alum ones from Jegs. On the water pump pulley I put it in the lathe and faced .060 off the backside, it now has about the same clearance as on the original pump.


I bought a new outlet neck too. To help stiffen up the flimsy base and equalize clamping force I made what is really just a big triangular washer that fit inside the raised outer edge. It's 1/4 thick 304 stainless, also used new longer stainless bolts. Did the trick as I have no leaks! A Stant 205° T-stat was also used. Filter is a Wix with no sca additive.


The lower radiator hose is for an 00 Dodge diesel pickup. It fit a bit loose to the radiator but the clamp sealed it tight. I used all stainless worm clamps that are lined with rolled edges.


While the coolant was drained I installed the Ford Ranger heater valve. I tapped into the blue vacuum line in the cab, it shuts off coolant flow to the heater in vent and AC positions. A very cheap and worthwhile mod!


Work was slow last week so I made my own fan clutch wrench from some 3/8 steel plate. My fan clutch did not put up a fight which was a nice surprise.


Again while the coolant was drained I did some r&r on the oil cooler. It wasn't leaking but it was pretty rusty. The tube seals were also rock hard, had to cut them off.


I planned to use the existing 1/8npt port in the filter head for an oil bypass. So while I had it off I put in some holes for my oil tamp and pressure sensors. Yes I could have put them elsewhere but I wanted them here.

The job took me about 8hrs including a few beer breaks and waiting for paint to dry. Most of that was devoted to thoroughly flushing the cooling system then getting as much water out as I could. I used DI water for the final flush as we have a lot of it at work. Refilled with Cat ELC, so far it has taken 7 3/4 gallons. Yeah I know pre 99 motors supposedly can't use but neither CAT nor IH gave no reasons not to. Plus my neighbor has had it in his 1995 irrigation pump engine for 8000+ hrs with no problems so I'll chance it. This was a fun and worthwhile little project to do.
 

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Dairy Mechanic
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2,198 Posts
what kind of pump (gallon per minute) was on the irragation pump?
 

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STILL LEARNING
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18,324 Posts
Nice write up. Too bad that water pump was not a direct fit
 

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OEM Moderator
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9,381 Posts
You should make and sell those reinforcements for the water neck. I would buy one. Nice photos and nice write up.
 

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Don't EFN worry about it
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15,588 Posts
You should make and sell those reinforcements for the water neck. I would buy one.
:whs: Mine leaked like a full hooker on a busy friday night..... :ford:
 

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Demon Dually
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5,140 Posts
I am in for a reinforcement for the neck as well if he is gonna make them.
 

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hit n miss
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549 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
what kind of pump (gallon per minute) was on the irrigation pump
I have no idea but it's a big centrifugal pump and it sure works that motor good!

You should make and sell those reinforcements for the water neck. I would buy one. Nice photos and nice write up.
Thanks Tom. I could make more of those outlet washers but stainless is expensive. Would you guys go for them if they were priced at ~ $30?
 

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Demon Dually
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5,140 Posts
If it keeps my water neck from leaking coolant.....YES. A one time cost of 30 bucks is way better than having to add coolant at 12 bucks a gallon at a time.
 

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Registered
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I would be in for the neck washer also!!!!
 

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crazed & deranged farmer
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Any chance you cold take some pics of the plumbing for the overflow bottle and the heater? the belt kinda blocks the view of the hoses and fittings.

-Thanks!
 

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Registered
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I have no idea but it's a big centrifugal pump and it sure works that motor good!

Thanks Tom. I could make more of those outlet washers but stainless is expensive. Would you guys go for them if they were priced at ~ $30?
could you make them out of another material other than stainless? would buy 2 of them i dont care if they all shiny
 

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hit n miss
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549 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Any chance you cold take some pics of the plumbing for the overflow bottle and the heater? the belt kinda blocks the view of the hoses and fittings.

-Thanks!
I didn't take any as it's pretty straight forward. In second pic you can see the fittings pretty good. Plug the right hand heater hose into the 5/8 fitting and run a 1" hose from the second fitting to bottom of expansion tank. Nothing to it!

could you make them out of another material other than stainless? would buy 2 of them i dont care if they all shiny
I could make them from plain steel for less but then you get rust issues. Local plating house will not give me a small lot price break so if I had them done in black oxide we're back up to the price of stainless. :doh:
 

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Registered
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could paint them or a friend of mine takes all kind of stuff to get powder coated could just through them in with that. not really worried if they are not stainless
 

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OEM Moderator
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Do you think they need to be stainless? I think you have a nice idea for sure.
 

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hit n miss
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549 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Do you think they need to be stainless?
I used stainless as the mere mention of winter driving will start rusting a vehicle up here. They should be made from steel and not alum or bronze. Unfinished 1018 would lower the price by ~$10 but will rust up real quick without painting or plating.

The ideal thing would to find someone to bend up some curved necks and braze them into a new thicker steel base. But that's a project I have for a later date.
 

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OEM Moderator
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Well I would be down for one either route. I do not mind painting something for sure.
 

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Team Shade-Tree Mechanic
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:whs:
 
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