[Its.Strokn.time]

Hello. First time posting about my IDI. It’s an e350 and not a truck but I didn’t think that would be relevant because I have questions about the engine. The 1994 van is in excellent shape and only has 130k. My valve covers are leaking so I need to replace the gaskets. My right exhaust manifold is cracked completely in half and needs replaced. While I’m in there I will be installing a new air filter and fuel filter/separator. I am installing completely new exhaust as well because it’s showing it’s age and the back half is completely gone at this point.I also would like to install new GPR.

Now my questions,
1) can I install same GPR that I put on my 97 powerstroke? It was from mouser electronics and is about double the size. It works amazingly .
2) I see on parts geek and other sites that there are just gaskets and there are kits with the harnesses. Should I get a kit and re-harness it while I’m in there?
3) what else should I update and replace while I’m in there?
4) are the parts in part geek and other online stores sufficient for what I need? I don’t know if the stealerships are going to have parts that old.

TIA

 

[tjctransport]

#1: yes you can use the stancor relay on the IDI. i have one on my 88.
i get the stancor relay from Dieselorings. they get $56 for it
Monster White-Rodgers Glow Plug Relay
#2: IDI is gaskets only. no harness with the cover, that is a powerstroke thing. remember, 94 was the first year for powerstroke, that is why they list both.
#3: it would not hurt to get a set of motorcraft ZD-9 glow plugs to have on hand.
#4: i have never dealt with parts geek, so can not comment on them.

 

[Its.Strokn.time]

#1: yes you can use the stancor relay on the IDI. i have one on my 88.
i get the stancor relay from Dieselorings. they get $56 for it
Monster White-Rodgers Glow Plug Relay
#2: IDI is gaskets only. no harness with the cover, that is a powerstroke thing. remember, 94 was the first year for powerstroke, that is why they list both.
#3: it would not hurt to get a set of motorcraft ZD-9 glow plugs to have on hand.
#4: i have never dealt with parts geek, so can not comment on them.

You’re awesome thanks. Alright that makes a lot of sense now. I was confused at first about that harness. Cool well that will be much cheaper than buying new pigtails as well. Awesome heads up on GPR. I paid more for it 5 years ago for my OBS.
Yeah I was wondering if I should go ahead and change out the plugs while I’m at it. She isn’t the easiest starter but I was hoping that was due to GPR. Had someone else on another forum recommend changing out injector return line as well while I’m at.

 

[tjctransport]

doing a return line kit is not a bad idea, i have one sitting on the shelf . they are a good thing to have around in case you start getting air intrusion, you can change it rite away instead of waiting for the kit to come in...and if you are going to change the glow plugs, you are guaranteed to nudge at least one cap causing a leak, so it is also a good idea to just do the return line kit when you do the glow plugs.
how long does the glow plug wait to start light stay on?
is it spinning over real fast, or so-so?
here are two short videos of a good starter at 40 degrees, and a tired/bad starter at 70 degrees.
tired/bad starter:

new starter:

 

[Randy4614]

And you may already know , but Motorcraft glowplugs only. If yours is a turbo have fun changing out the right rear one , a real pain.

 

[Its.Strokn.time]

doing a return line kit is not a bad idea, i have one sitting on the shelf . they are a good thing to have around in case you start getting air intrusion, you can change it rite away instead of waiting for the kit to come in...and if you are going to change the glow plugs, you are guaranteed to nudge at least one cap causing a leak, so it is also a good idea to just do the return line kit when you do the glow plugs.
how long does the glow plug wait to start light stay on?
is it spinning over real fast, or so-so?
here are two short videos of a good starter at 40 degrees, and a tired/bad starter at 70 degrees.
tired/bad starter:

new starter:

my wait to start light comes on for about 5 seconds. If I turn back off and on again right afterwards then only 1 second.when the batteries are full it cranks pretty decently. But I have a stupid alarm system that I plan to disconnect because it seems to drain the battery over long periods of time.
also I’m not really convinced that the plugs are bad but just thought I might change them while I have everything somewhat accessible. I’m sure that once I upgrade the GPR it will start much easier as well. It did on my psd anyways.
I guess once I do everything and still need a starter it seems fairly accessible from below. What batteries do you guys use for your smaller one? I guess they don’t make that model anymore so the previous owner put a smaller interstate in that’s pretty old. I would like get a larger one though because it is smaller than the one that came out.
also, any idea where I can find complete exhaust kit? Rock auto is the only place online and I would have to piece it together. Thinking of calling exhaust shop andhaving them install one if I can’t find one online.

 

[Its.Strokn.time]

And you may already know , but Motorcraft glowplugs only. If yours is a turbo have fun changing out the right rear one , a real pain.

No turbo fortunately. But doubt I would even need new plugs after I change out GPR. Might do it anyways since I’m already in there though

 

[tjctransport]

no "smaller" battery on these trucks.
they should be group 65 , and 850 CCA... or higher.
WTS should stay on for closer to 15 seconds or so. at 5 seconds, i bet you have 2 or 3 bad glow plugs.
the controller works off resistance to determine how long to heat the plugs. less resistance due to bad plugs, lower glow time.

as far as exhaust goes, mine is custom made 3 inch rite off the turbo, down to a low backpressure muffler with a turn down elbow.

 

[Its.Strokn.time]

no "smaller" battery on these trucks.
they should be group 65 , and 850 CCA... or higher.
WTS should stay on for closer to 15 seconds or so. at 5 seconds, i bet you have 2 or 3 bad glow plugs.
the controller works off resistance to determine how long to heat the plugs. less resistance due to bad plugs, lower glow time.

as far as exhaust goes, mine is custom made 3 inch rite off the turbo, down to a low backpressure muffler with a turn down elbow.

no kidding. Guess I’ll definitely be replacing the plugs while I’m in there. I can’t fit a 850 cca on the passenger side. The factory battery was one of those taller batteries and I guess they don’t make them anymore. I can try to retro fit a bigger one in but it would involve some modification iirc.

 

[tjctransport]

oh crap on a cracker. i forgot you have a van. not sure what they did for batteries.
i know on the ambulance vans the second battery was mounted under the floor on the frame behind the driver seat.

 

[Its.Strokn.time]

oh crap on a cracker. i forgot you have a van. not sure what they did for batteries.
i know on the ambulance vans the second battery was mounted under the floor on the frame behind the driver seat.

Yup, looks like factory was a 600 cca. I think what’s on there now is probably less than 600.

 

[Dustybumpers]

2nd battery usually under the door in the side in the rocker behind the seat Tom. you have to measure the box, and see what fits, If I remember correctly, the box is small.
Change those glow plugs, and be very careful, they like to get carbon on them and get stuck. run the truck a bit to warm it up, helps pull the glow plugs easier in my opinion.
also on my one truck the fuses kept blowing when the glow plugs were bad. I used the 30 amp circuit breaker for the A/C circuit, helps, but not a cure.
like said while you are there, change the o rings and return lines. The truck will even run better.

The Rockauto exhaust system will work ok, it just may have some dents in the ends to straighten from shipping.