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I think they are $ 60 bucks or so. The only way i can tell that it is on the truck is that i can spin the wheel at a stop with one finger. You may want to call PSC as they port the box right next to the input shaft maybe that makes a difference?
 

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I might try that how much is the pump? So basically u can't even tell u have a hydro assist on there at all when driving on the street? Can you steer with the brakes applied heavy?
I just don't see how the pump is going to help me in my situation.
Didn't you drill out the valve on the current pump? I would try a new one to see if you still have the problem You can always return the pump if it dosent work
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Didn't you drill out the valve on the current pump? I would try a new one to see if you still have the problem You can always return the pump if it dosent work
In the housing after u take out the pistion there is a small hole and i drilled it out 32/64 I believe it was tiny. I also stretched the spring a little. I had to or I just couldn't turn at all when hitting the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Matt at west Texas of road said he adjusted the steering gear a little to tight he said to losen it a quarter turn. Hope this fixes it!
 

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how are things going with your setup?
i run 40s and am tired of not being able to turn my steering wheel at all unless the truck has some kind of roll to it.. I was looking at the West Texas OffRoad setup but wanted to hear a review of how things have been since installing the kit
 

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Discussion Starter #70
how are things going with your setup?
i run 40s and am tired of not being able to turn my steering wheel at all unless the truck has some kind of roll to it.. I was looking at the West Texas OffRoad setup but wanted to hear a review of how things have been since installing the kit
I have a brand new pump sitting here I am waiting to get my otc pulley remover/instauler because the pull is pressed on. I sure hope this is my problem I'll let you know what it does with the new pump on it.
 

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I have dealt with Redneck Rams before and never had any issues. They are great to work with. A lot of people don’t fully understand hydro assist. If you get the small diameter ram the steering is quicker but not as strong, the bigger in diameter will steer slower but in return be stronger. The ram is not actually suppose to be doing the steering for you till your tires get "X" amount of resistance against the steering, then the hydro part of the system kicks in. In normal driving down the road it should be as if it is a stock setup that is working properly. The ram does act as a very nice stabilizer as it has constant fluid pressure in it on both sides of the seal, not just a predetermined gas charge. As far as the fluid capacity dropping and it getting hot, this should basically never happen. The only time is would possibly get hot is if your rock crawling at slow speeds with huge tires and you are steering against rocks or gully walls constantly for a long time (excess of an hour strait). The capacity is the same as the fluid level does not change much as you steer. There is always "X" amount of fluid in the lines and the ram. For an easy example: If you ram holds 1qt of fluid it will always have 1qt of fluid in it. When you turn right all the fluid (1qt) will be on the left side of the ram, when you turn left (1qt) will be on the right side of the ram, when your going strait .5qt will be on the right and .5qt will be on the left. If you need extra capacity, just put a hose (or weld a tube if yours is metal) extending the height of your filler neck on your pump. The easy way is finding a piece of rubber hose and clamp it onto the top part of your pump (with the cap off) and buy (or get from a junk pump) the filler part that your cap twists into and clamp it in top of the hose(I prefer band clamp in place of the worm style clamps). You can add 6in or 12in of hose if you want. A hose dress up kit can be used to give it that $$ custom look if you like. Just take your take your time to make it look good and no, it will not leak if done properly. This mod also makes checking and topping the fluid off a lot easier and it adds a lot of capacity to the system, your fluid will run cooler and last longer between fluid changes. Another trick to add capacity without spending a lot on a crazy remote reservoir is to take you low pressure line and make it long enough to wrap around your engine bay (You know added lines make your truck faster and get better MPG's) If done properly you will hardly notice it and it acts as a cooler and reservoir. In this added line you can add a filter for cleaning of the fluid if you like. Sometimes full synthetic fluid will cure a problem child as I have had a time or two that things didn't work as designed and this was the cure. The rule of thumb on drilling the orphus on the pump is 3 bit sizes bigger than stock(this is from your run of the mill drill bit kit from Home Depot etc...)

I know someone out there will disagree with some or all of what I said and that is cool. These are real world experiences I have had myself and not just read off another form and retyped over here.

Thanks and good luck to all who are doing this as it is a great upgrade!
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Today I adjusted my castor to over 5* of castor put on a new ram because my other one was leaking. I also made a longer bracket for a steering stabilizer. I drove the truck for a couple miles down the road it wasn't near as touchy from 55 MPH and down but it still is at higher speeds but not as bad. With this new ram the steering at slow spee ds is faster to turn and much smoother I wonder if I had a fualty ram? In the really uneven parts'of the road the truck did wonder a little bit but this road I was on was terrible.
 

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On the chance that the touchyness is pump flow related, you could get up to the speed that it is touchy and put the truck in neutral. This would lower the engine rpm and at the same time lower pump flow. Just something to try that dosent cost anything atleast.

Mabye more incentive to install the new pump if lower rpms remove the touchyness.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
On the chance that the touchyness is pump flow related, you could get up to the speed that it is touchy and put the truck in neutral. This would lower the engine rpm and at the same time lower pump flow. Just something to try that dosent cost anything atleast.

Mabye more incentive to install the new pump if lower rpms remove the touchyness.
Good idea I will try that tomorrow if the weather is nice. The truck now handle well enof I can deal with it now but I would like to make it the best as I can. I still would love to improve the ride and I'm not sure how to get rid of the rear drive train vibration I thought the pmf traction blocks would get rid of it...
 

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Under what conditions does the vibration occur? Acceleration or at a certain constant speed?
 

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Discussion Starter #80
During accelerating from a stop or very slow sleeds it is the worse. And I can feel the front vibrating at driving speeds. Also my pmf blocks are flat with no angle to help with drive line angle which can't be helping my situation ecspesially with that tall of a block.
 
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