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Discussion Starter #1
Motor swap, no start (will turn over with button on starter but nothing with key). Fuse or some weird relay I can't see?

Hooked most everything up, key turn, lights all on, no starter turning.

Plugged in a remove button directly at starter and starter kicks engine over hard.

It almost wants to start when I fill up the oil res on top of the engine, but I have filled it 8 times and it keeps drawing down after a 20 second crank and sounds more like it almost wants to start. then nothing until I refill the HPOP.

Any ideas?
 

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Junior Mint
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Why aren't you getting oil to your reservior?

Check your engine oil pressure near the oil filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How do I check the oil pressure?

Also found I am not getting fuel in the bowl. Cycled it 57 times now, so I know it has to be something else. Not hearing the pump on the fuel rail at all, just the burrr noise that we get under the hood when turning the key on. Is there a way to test man rail pump or I am missing something/plug/fuse somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Figured out the fuel issue, just don't know on the key issue and can't get the HPOP to fill or remain full. Check valve in block looked fine. No idea now, can a worn out LPOP cause zero oil to fill my HPOP res?
 

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Do you smell something?
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Figured out the fuel issue, just don't know on the key issue and can't get the HPOP to fill or remain full. Check valve in block looked fine. No idea now, can a worn out LPOP cause zero oil to fill my HPOP res?
no but a grounded IPR will.....

you need to find out why you have no key, (poss pcm is not getting power, no pcm power no start) it is either the wiring harness on the drivers side valve cover or the starter relay wiring on the pass fenderwell.....or you got another issue, those are the first places to start when a motor is out...

new motor will take forever to start, (do you show oil pressure on the guage on the dash when cranking) it won't even try until the guage shows pressure.... if there i pressure while cranking stop looking inthe hpop res....
 

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PSN Pretender
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no but a grounded IPR will.....
Sorry but that is incorrect, a grounded IPR (Y/R wire) will go full shut or 100% Duty Cycle. The IPR ,when not energized is open and will allow HPO to bypass it.

The check valve will not cause a drain down issue because of the reservoir's standpipe design.

Do you have the correct HPOP gasket installed?

Might pop the covers off and see if you can find where the leak is.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I am looking at LPOP then? Sound like the next big place to look. My IPR harness plug has exposed copper from heat and such, but I still would get oil from the bottom end right.
 

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I bought a used engine, and put it in.. ran great but had a small leak at the lpop. Then i bought a new one from ford and i guess it was bad. No oil pressure at all. would only crank up when i filled the resevoir. I put the old pump back on and it had oil pressure instantly.
 

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The Melling aftermarket pump works great.
Had bleed-down (not near as bad as you're describing) with the stocker. Well, that and a gouged front cover.
If you can, take off your harmonic balancer, pop the LPOP off and look for bad gouging. Some moderate gouging can be reliably JB-Weld repaired (A SPOTLESS SURFACE IS IMPERATIVE!! NO GREASES, OILS, FILMS, OR RESIDUES!) But if its really bad you'll need a new front cover.

Not saying thats your issue, but its a thought.
 

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Subscribing, my key doesn't work anymore either. Screwdriver on the solenoid does though.....
 

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Any progress on this issue?
 
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