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Discussion Starter #1
Today I'm going to build an HPO X-over, and in the center, I want to put a "T", and cap that so that I can hook my HPO gauge to it.

Has anyone done that? Is it useless? I just want to be able to read the average pressure in each head, instead of just one side at a time.





And some 4AN fittings and tubing... Anyone see any issues?

I was also worried about too many leak points... Any possibility I could use lock-tite or something on the unions at the "T" to make sure they don't back off? Or just tighten the piss out of them?
 

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HRT Performance
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I've never done it that way, but it should work OK. You have a bulkhead tee there - if you can mount it somewhere with an angle bracket and it will keep it from flopping around and be less likely to have a fitting come loose. Those are JIC fittings - you shouldn't need loc-tite - and if you "tighten the piss" out of them you will deform them and make them more likely to leak.
 

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Busy Busy
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overtightening them is as bad as under tightening them. They use the flare inside to seal.

No anything is supposed to be used on the threads of a JIC fitting.

Also, I would recommend you don't use JIC and pushloc. 3,000 psi of oil empties quick.
 

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Village Idiot
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Is the gauge going under the hood like a fuel guage...may be kinda hard to read when you need it....but an interesting idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That T isn't the actual one I'm using, but I do like the idea of securing the bulkhead T with a bracket...

I'm not using push-loc Marty. LOL

Ratard.

I've got 1/4" stainless tubing. Like the ITP HPOX, just with a T union in the middle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is the gauge going under the hood like a fuel guage...may be kinda hard to read when you need it....but an interesting idea.
Nah, It'll be running to a bulkhead fitting at the cowl and mounted where I can read it while driving. I have caps and plugs for when it's not being used.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok. I got it done and on, but changed it up some from my original plan. I got a T with two male fittings on each end, and a female fitting in the middle. I put the female fitting on my pipe-AN fitting in the head, went under the turbo, and back to the other side with the tubing. For now I have the test port capped. The only issue I see now is that I need a 90* male to female fitting to keep it from hitting the turbo intake. I'll have pictures when I get back to the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

I'm planning on using flex hose to run the gauge instead of hard line. It's going to work pretty good IMO... I test fitted the gauge up and it worked nicely. My idle is a lot more steady now as a cool side-effect of the X-over.
 

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I like this idea

can you tell me what the thread size of the oil rail in the heads is?

is it a #4 ORB?

Thanks Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Man... Don't get me lying. I used the ones that came with the HPOx that I had a long time ago. When it busted I capped the lines because I knew I'd build another. Maybe someone will come by that knows.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How are you guys that have done this looking at the gauge? Do you just duct tape it to the windshield on some braided stainless hose? I don't see an easy way to go from the cowl to the engine compartment.
 

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FORD..THE ROCK CRUSHER
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i drilled a hole through the fire wall into the cowl..then ran a hose with a rubber gromet for my fuel PSI gauge..works well for me..you could do the same...bolt in a bracket to hold the capped end just under the cowl lid..when you need it..take the cap off with a socket and thread in the gauge..it would mean 2 caps..one on the rail..one under the cowl...just leave the hose there at all times and re connect when needed..

 

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Flaretite is another similar item. I used them in my fuel system
 

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Junior Mint
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i drilled a hole through the fire wall into the cowl..then ran a hose with a rubber gromet for my fuel PSI gauge..works well for me..you could do the same...bolt in a bracket to hold the capped end just under the cowl lid..when you need it..take the cap off with a socket and thread in the gauge..it would mean 2 caps..one on the rail..one under the cowl...just leave the hose there at all times and re connect when needed..

I know that gauges and lines popping is a rare occurrence but if 3000psi of 220degree motor oil sprays into the cab of your truck that will likely be the worst day of your life.

Tape the gauge to the outside of your windshield. My hose exits at the passenger side rear corner of the hood no problem for temporary viewing.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm gonna see if I can swap the test port to the passenger side. That way I can zip-tie the gauge to the antennae.
 
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