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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
heat controls.JPG i blew a bulb in right side of the heat/ac upper control i tried pulling but dont want to rip off whole top peace any one know how to remove it ? the part with green x on it in pic thanks
 

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Haters Gonna Hate
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View attachment 12163 i blew a bulb in right side of the heat/ac upper control i tried pulling but dont want to rip off whole top peace any one know how to remove it ? the part with green x on it in pic thanks
i do believe that just clips on the front, should pop off with a lil steady pull
 

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Look in one of the compartments for the single screw that holds the console to the roof. Once that's out, start to pull it down from the edge's. There are friction clips that hold it up and wiring harness' which will have to be disconnected. Once the whole console is out, it's easier to deal with the single part of it.
 

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You do have to remove the outer cover of the console completely to get at the controls and the control bopard as well, but it is simple.

Note if anyone is doing this cause the lie -o-meter is not working etc Watch out for a falling chip as you remove the console. One might have completely fallen off of the circuit board. They are very small and hard to find otherwise. The dif is the air controlers are likley held in by a few sep screws but should be obvious once you get the cover and inner pod open.

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Here's some detailed instructions with pics but its a truck so the console doesn't have the air controls but it comes out basically the same so it will work for step by step. These are spefically for pulling out the computer board in there. This should be of value as well so I kept basically it as is with some updates.


Here is the process to remove and repair the overhead console in your truck. Click on the red links for detailed photos. The blue links are adds from FTE sponsors (check them out too for great stuff).

First, you must remove the outer shell colored to match the interior of your truck). There are five tension clips that hold the shell in place. Begin by pulling downward (I just use my fingers to prevent damage) on the front (toward windshield) of the shell. You must pull VERY hard - it feels like it will break , but has never happened to me, and I've done a few now.

Once the front two tension clips pop loose, you must release two "L" shaped tension clips that lock into the storage compartment. You can BARELY see the tips of the clips when looking inside the compartment. Use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to push out on the clips until they release. I've also tried reaching above the outer shell to pull on these clips (rather than pushing from inside the storage compartment), but my hands are too big.

Once these two are released, there is one final tension clip on the rear that comes off fairly easily.

Next, you will see the black inner shell. First, unplug the wire harness on the passenger side of the unit. Some people do not remove the large inner plastic housing – they just remove the display and small plastic display housing by removing the three 10mm torx screws. If you decide to remove the large inner plastic housing, you must again pull from the front (toward the windshield) with force to release two additional tension clips. Finally, tilt the unit downward to release the "L" bracket at the rear (the "L" shaped bracket slides into a hole in the roof - no pulling required).

Once you have the large inner plastic housing out (if you go this route), you must still remove the display and small plastic display housing (with the E/M and MODE buttons) from the inner shell by removing the three 10mm torx screws.

Whether you remove the large inner black plastic housing or not, once the small plastic display housing is removed via the three torx screws, you will find one more 10mm torx screw on the back side buried in the black foam padding. You do not need to remove the black foam padding, just insert your torx bit in the hole and turn the screw. The circuit board will now release from the black plastic display housing.


Once the circuit board is removed, locate the 7 chips on the circuit board behind the display. They are labeled 620 and 680. The two I most often find loose are the two in the center directly behind the display - but check them all. Once the loose chips are located, re-attach them using a soldering pen (DO NOT USE A SOLDERING GUN AS THEY ARE TOO HOT AND MAY DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD). If there is not sufficient solder already in place (often the case for me), add additional solder as needed.

NOTE:The chips are actually resistors. Either 62 or 68 ohm. They are flat, but you can buy cylindrical resistors at Radio Shack that will work. There is a post with pics that show where the resistors go on the board. The 620 is the 62 ohm, and the 680 is the 68 ohm. You can also buy a small soldering iron at Radio Shack and try the repair yourself.Iron is about $15.00 . A lot cheaper than $350.00.

I purchased a 15W Soldering Pen/iron from Radio Shack for about $7 (part 64-2051) and it worked fine. I also purchased some .015 silver solder for a dollar or two - very thin and easy to work with. I recommend you check and re-solder all the chips so you don't need to do this again next month!

Now test the display by plugging in just the board in your truck and turn the key. If all works, put the board back on the inner shell and then replace the inner shell and plug in the wire harness. Then snap the outer shell in place and enjoy!

Check out my gallery for additional photos. If you find the chips are not the problem and the board is actually dead, check out ebay or similar locations to find a better deal than the $500 the dealer wants. I've never had luck at scrap yards, but you might try those also. Finally, if you really can't find one, drop me a message and I'll see if I have any left from bulk purchases made prior to discovering the above repair procedure.


NOTE: For circut board replacement: The Dealers computer have shown that for late 99- '01 owners had to buy an entire replacement console, at a cost over $300, but '02-'05 owners could buy only a replacement circuit board for less than $130. Circuit board were compared and no there were no visible difference. It was tried and works perfectly, Saves against a $180 Ford parts computer referancing mistake or not a mistake.:confused:

**Content Pulled off ford trucks and edited*
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks but just need to change 1 little bulb so your saying the pic i posted that peace with the green x on it just pull sum and it will pop off?
 

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Correct. start near the window IIRC on the outer shell. Form there you will have to see if you can get to the light bulb You may have to pull the back over off a bit titling it to get to the bulbs. Should be sefl explanitior once you are in there. I always how to get into these things for the first time that tricky once you figur it out its simple.
 

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You do have to remove the outer cover of the console completely to get at the controls and the control bopard as well, but it is simple.
thanks but just need to change 1 little bulb so your saying the pic i posted that peace with the green x on it just pull sum and it will pop off?
I hate to say it but TARM is right. I had to pull the dran thing off to fix my map lights on mine and I found out the hard way. There is no easy way to just look at one pat of that POS of a PITA overhead console.

TARM looks like a good write up on it. Is that you or someone else?
 

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A few others that I pieced together to make a good complete how to. I tend to be a research nut and just about everything people need is out there. It only needs to be found wading thru all the BS out there and turned into good easy to read info. I do quite a bit on my own as well but do not bother if the info is already out there.
 

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TARM,
Thanks for the wsrite-up. A great help. One of my resistors came completely off and I cannot find it. Now I know what I need to do to fix the computer board.

Thanks again.

You do have to remove the outer cover of the console completely to get at the controls and the control bopard as well, but it is simple.

Note if anyone is doing this cause the lie -o-meter is not working etc Watch out for a falling chip as you remove the console. One might have completely fallen off of the circuit board. They are very small and hard to find otherwise. The dif is the air controlers are likley held in by a few sep screws but should be obvious once you get the cover and inner pod open.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's some detailed instructions with pics but its a truck so the console doesn't have the air controls but it comes out basically the same so it will work for step by step. These are spefically for pulling out the computer board in there. This should be of value as well so I kept basically it as is with some updates.


Here is the process to remove and repair the overhead console in your truck. Click on the red links for detailed photos. The blue links are adds from FTE sponsors (check them out too for great stuff).

First, you must remove the outer shell colored to match the interior of your truck). There are five tension clips that hold the shell in place. Begin by pulling downward (I just use my fingers to prevent damage) on the front (toward windshield) of the shell. You must pull VERY hard - it feels like it will break , but has never happened to me, and I've done a few now.

Once the front two tension clips pop loose, you must release two "L" shaped tension clips that lock into the storage compartment. You can BARELY see the tips of the clips when looking inside the compartment. Use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to push out on the clips until they release. I've also tried reaching above the outer shell to pull on these clips (rather than pushing from inside the storage compartment), but my hands are too big.

Once these two are released, there is one final tension clip on the rear that comes off fairly easily.

Next, you will see the black inner shell. First, unplug the wire harness on the passenger side of the unit. Some people do not remove the large inner plastic housing – they just remove the display and small plastic display housing by removing the three 10mm torx screws. If you decide to remove the large inner plastic housing, you must again pull from the front (toward the windshield) with force to release two additional tension clips. Finally, tilt the unit downward to release the "L" bracket at the rear (the "L" shaped bracket slides into a hole in the roof - no pulling required).

Once you have the large inner plastic housing out (if you go this route), you must still remove the display and small plastic display housing (with the E/M and MODE buttons) from the inner shell by removing the three 10mm torx screws.

Whether you remove the large inner black plastic housing or not, once the small plastic display housing is removed via the three torx screws, you will find one more 10mm torx screw on the back side buried in the black foam padding. You do not need to remove the black foam padding, just insert your torx bit in the hole and turn the screw. The circuit board will now release from the black plastic display housing.


Once the circuit board is removed, locate the 7 chips on the circuit board behind the display. They are labeled 620 and 680. The two I most often find loose are the two in the center directly behind the display - but check them all. Once the loose chips are located, re-attach them using a soldering pen (DO NOT USE A SOLDERING GUN AS THEY ARE TOO HOT AND MAY DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD). If there is not sufficient solder already in place (often the case for me), add additional solder as needed.

NOTE:The chips are actually resistors. Either 62 or 68 ohm. They are flat, but you can buy cylindrical resistors at Radio Shack that will work. There is a post with pics that show where the resistors go on the board. The 620 is the 62 ohm, and the 680 is the 68 ohm. You can also buy a small soldering iron at Radio Shack and try the repair yourself.Iron is about $15.00 . A lot cheaper than $350.00.

I purchased a 15W Soldering Pen/iron from Radio Shack for about $7 (part 64-2051) and it worked fine. I also purchased some .015 silver solder for a dollar or two - very thin and easy to work with. I recommend you check and re-solder all the chips so you don't need to do this again next month!

Now test the display by plugging in just the board in your truck and turn the key. If all works, put the board back on the inner shell and then replace the inner shell and plug in the wire harness. Then snap the outer shell in place and enjoy!

Check out my gallery for additional photos. If you find the chips are not the problem and the board is actually dead, check out ebay or similar locations to find a better deal than the $500 the dealer wants. I've never had luck at scrap yards, but you might try those also. Finally, if you really can't find one, drop me a message and I'll see if I have any left from bulk purchases made prior to discovering the above repair procedure.


NOTE: For circut board replacement: The Dealers computer have shown that for late 99- '01 owners had to buy an entire replacement console, at a cost over $300, but '02-'05 owners could buy only a replacement circuit board for less than $130. Circuit board were compared and no there were no visible difference. It was tried and works perfectly, Saves against a $180 Ford parts computer referancing mistake or not a mistake.:confused:

**Content Pulled off ford trucks and edited*
 
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