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< Can I drive?!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This write up is for installing a Diamond Eye Performance downpipe on a 1994.5-1997 PSD OBS truck

Installing a downpipe in a obs is fairly simple as long as your careful and patient. you'll need some simple tools to complete this task: a 7/16 deep socket, a 9/16 open end wrench(a gear wrench is awesome for this if you have one, a 9/16 socket, short extensions and ratchet to fit sockets, a small pry bar, some wire snips, and a good sawzall with a good blade(the longer the blade the better.



First you'll want to disconnect your stock downpipe from your exhaust system.

Next you'll want to go up top on the turbo and take the stocker off from the turbo. Spray the nut with WD-40 or another penetrating lube to help along you'll need a 7/16 deep socket with a extension (to make it easier on you) and take the clamp loose on the exhaust side of the turbo.

(picture is with new DP installed)


After taking the nut completely off the bolt take your pry bar and lightly pry up on the bottom of the clamp. There are 3 sections to the clamp and each have to be popped off. be careful not to break the clamp.

Once you have the DP loose from the turbo you can start cutting. Make your first cut under the truck. You'll have to first remove the heat shield around the stock DP with the wire snips just cut the bands. Its not 100% necessary but it wont bind up you blade. Make the cut before the transmission cross members. I highly recommend eye protection. (been there done that)
Make your second cut up top on the "cobra head" of the DP. After you make your second cut the middle section of the DP will come right out.

Picture of the "cobra head" cut.


You'll end up with 3 pieces that look like this.


Now its time for putting in the new DP.

The first thing to do is drop your turbo side piece of the new DP down the hole to see where the firewall needs to be moved. I cant say 100% where you'll have to move it but you can usually eyeball it and get it right. To move the firewall i used a hydraulic pry, I understand not all of us have that. Some have used a baseball bat, a pry bar, a hammer (if you can swing it lol) however you need to move it without damaging anything vital.

Its hard to take pics but you get the idea.


Once you have the firewall moved you can slide the turbo side piece of the new DP on. I found that it will have to go on from under the truck. Slip the clamp on and get it tight enough that it will hold the piece up but you can still adjust it. Get the first piece lined up so that it doesn't touch anything as it goes down. Once you have it lined up slide your second piece onto the first piece.
Go up top and tighten the turbo clamp down, then tighten the clamp holding the 2 pieces of the DP together. After you get everything tight and put back together you are done.

What i am going to do though since I have a automatic tranny
I'm going to wrap the new DP with the stock heat shield to keep the extra heat from the tranny. This isn't necessary but it seemed like a good safety net to me. just an idea to share.


All that is left to do is enjoy a move responsive truck (i felt) and more turbo whistle :D

wint
 

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Just another OBS addict
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Good write-up Wint. You forgot the part during moving the firewall/cutting it where you have to yell and cuss at it until finally wants to move. Been there, done that. Had to resort back to the big guns to get 'er done after awhile.
 

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Thank you Wint I will eventually add this to the library. If anyone wants to add on helpfull tips to the thread that would be great.
 

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How do you remove the insulation from the firewall? Do you pry it off the
retaining clips?
 

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< Can I drive?!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i never took the insulation off. you can move the firewall with out taking it off. otherwise im not sure how to. i assume like you said is how you may do it if you have to
 

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What else?
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I have a suggestion Daniel: Use one of THESE (preferably in the stepped version) to clamp the downpipe pieces together, it makes future disassembly so much easier. ;)

Dave
 

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One other tip (courtesy of Dale at Tymar years ago): When notching the firewall pinch weld section, go ahead and make several cuts so you are only bending a 1" wide tab at a time. It folds over MUCH easier that way. I was able to do it with a basic crowbar that way.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 

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My tip to add to this is that I found a landscaping pry bay to work nicely when working from the top to bend that flange over. I am also a big fan of using the easy seal style of clamp on the exhaust. My favorite is the stepped version from Donaldson. I also removed some of the factor insulation that was on the downpipe and used that to keep heat off the transmission case.
 

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i used a 5 foot long bar and two people :eek:wned:
 

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Anyone else have anything to add before this goes to the library?
 

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Demon Dually
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It's much easier to do with a 3" body lift.........:D
I second that motion. It is truly drop in at that point and I can get to my uppipes without pulling the trans. etc..:D
 

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i found that a 3" or a 4" cutting wheel worked much better than a sawzall for cutting the downpipe off down bottom, before the cat, since the bolts were too rusted to remove.
 

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On my pickup with a manual trans. I had to put the top piece in from the top. I didn't have a hydraulic pry so I didn't hardly get it bent up far enough. the dp touches both the cab and tranny I've felt of the firewall and it doesn't get hot but I'm planning on yarding it back out and pushing the firewall in more.
 

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Wint - awesome write-up!
Quick question...would it make a difference if I used a 3" or 4"dp??
(1995 F250 4X4 Supercab 7.3 turbo)
Michael.








This write up is for installing a Diamond Eye Performance downpipe on a 1994.5-1997 PSD OBS truck

Installing a downpipe in a obs is fairly simple as long as your careful and patient. you'll need some simple tools to complete this task: a 7/16 deep socket, a 9/16 open end wrench(a gear wrench is awesome for this if you have one, a 9/16 socket, short extensions and ratchet to fit sockets, a small pry bar, some wire snips, and a good sawzall with a good blade(the longer the blade the better.



First you'll want to disconnect your stock downpipe from your exhaust system.

Next you'll want to go up top on the turbo and take the stocker off from the turbo. Spray the nut with WD-40 or another penetrating lube to help along you'll need a 7/16 deep socket with a extension (to make it easier on you) and take the clamp loose on the exhaust side of the turbo.

(picture is with new DP installed)


After taking the nut completely off the bolt take your pry bar and lightly pry up on the bottom of the clamp. There are 3 sections to the clamp and each have to be popped off. be careful not to break the clamp.

Once you have the DP loose from the turbo you can start cutting. Make your first cut under the truck. You'll have to first remove the heat shield around the stock DP with the wire snips just cut the bands. Its not 100% necessary but it wont bind up you blade. Make the cut before the transmission cross members. I highly recommend eye protection. (been there done that)
Make your second cut up top on the "cobra head" of the DP. After you make your second cut the middle section of the DP will come right out.

Picture of the "cobra head" cut.


You'll end up with 3 pieces that look like this.


Now its time for putting in the new DP.

The first thing to do is drop your turbo side piece of the new DP down the hole to see where the firewall needs to be moved. I cant say 100% where you'll have to move it but you can usually eyeball it and get it right. To move the firewall i used a hydraulic pry, I understand not all of us have that. Some have used a baseball bat, a pry bar, a hammer (if you can swing it lol) however you need to move it without damaging anything vital.

Its hard to take pics but you get the idea.


Once you have the firewall moved you can slide the turbo side piece of the new DP on. I found that it will have to go on from under the truck. Slip the clamp on and get it tight enough that it will hold the piece up but you can still adjust it. Get the first piece lined up so that it doesn't touch anything as it goes down. Once you have it lined up slide your second piece onto the first piece.
Go up top and tighten the turbo clamp down, then tighten the clamp holding the 2 pieces of the DP together. After you get everything tight and put back together you are done.

What i am going to do though since I have a automatic tranny
I'm going to wrap the new DP with the stock heat shield to keep the extra heat from the tranny. This isn't necessary but it seemed like a good safety net to me. just an idea to share.


All that is left to do is enjoy a move responsive truck (i felt) and more turbo whistle :D

wint
 

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Michael250, makes a huge difference with a 4" dp. You will need to do some serious firewall massaging or throw a body lift on there for a 4" to fit.
 

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This thread was just added to the library and unstuck.
 
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