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6.0 money pit
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alot of times people just think installing studs is going to be the fix for everything thing and they will never have another issue because their trucks are studded, so they beat the snot out of them, until a failure happens, then wonder why...
agreed, studs are not going to do anything with heads that arent a true flat, bad torque readings, or overheating / clogging problems
 

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I was thinking along the lines of strength wise- ARPs 8740 alloy steel's recomended strength is up to 210KSI while H11 tool steel's recommended strength is 210-260KSI. Source link for strength.
 

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probably a dumb question but...

before the studs get put in, is a bottoming tap run up and down the holes to clean out anything that might be in them?

I am just wondering why some of the studs are taking so much more torque, and why they are getting "poppy" while torquing.

I sure hope this method holds :ford:
They are studs not bolts, threads in the block have nothing to do about it. Problem with popping is simple friction, just think of the load on the face of that head. At that pressure the ARP grease is squashed out and causing it to pop. I would think using a synthetic high sheer (sp) oil would allow the bolt to torque smoother. Problem is it will change the actuall torue or stretch of the bolt. Like bean says his method eliminates this issue.
Actually my misguided friend, yes it is a good idea to run a bottoming tap into the block holes, size 14mmx2.00. That's the number one step in WOP's install instructions for the H11 studs. It cleans out the hole so that the stud will seat all the way down to the bottom of the hole.
 

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So we are going on 5 months now. How is it holding up? My buddy just blew his on his 04 and its sitting at the stealership. We are in Greenville, SC. Anybody know a place that does work as good as Bean close to us? Or would he be better off towing it to Bean?
 

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Trying to revive this thread...how is the truck holding up with the angle torque method? Getting ready to reinstall my heads tomorrow and would be nice to know how the truck is holding up.
 

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TimmyaleX
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subscribed... not sure how I missed this thread... got some reading to doooo!
 

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Discussion Starter #329
I got rid of the truck but it was fine when I sold it and was at 600rwhp. I think this is still the way Bean does them now.
 

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TimmyaleX
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Where is Bean's shop? Does he have a website? Link?
 

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I Love Work'N On Hot Rods
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I think he is referring to bean's diesel performance and if so they are located in woodbury, TN. Their website is http://www.beansdieselperformance.com they I looked as well on their website and they didnt have anything about this on there for the powerstroke. I wish I could have found about this sooner as i would have called them when i did my head studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #332
Yes BDP is the shop, and just talk to Bean. He has some good stuff coming out of his shop.
 

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TimmyaleX
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thanks fellas!
 

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OBS Roller
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They are studs not bolts, threads in the block have nothing to do about it. Problem with popping is simple friction, just think of the load on the face of that head. At that pressure the ARP grease is squashed out and causing it to pop. I would think using a synthetic high sheer (sp) oil would allow the bolt to torque smoother. Problem is it will change the actuall torue or stretch of the bolt. Like bean says his method eliminates this issue.
Digging this one up, but just a thought.... if the threads in the block were not cleaned then couldn't the stud threads and the block threads have stuff in between them, and when torqued down all of it may not come out, but after some usage it could... thus letting the stud lift ever so slightly?
 
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