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Discussion Starter #1
a few months agothe truck wouldnt start sop i drained the fuel bowl replaced the fuel in it go it started and then took it for a drive stalled had it pulled home by a friend, found out the maxi 22 fuse blew didnt want to start and it was hard working on it outside in the cold but i still did on occation between school and work, i just drove my car. it didnt want to smoke at all even while cranking with block heater plugged in for hours, but on occation it would. it started one day but idle rough around 300-500 rpms, i held the pedal down to about 1000 rpms to see if it would smooth out didnt really want to floor it bc it was cold let it idle down shut the door, but still running rough shut the door and turned my back and it stalled tried to start again with no sucess not even smoke while cranking gave up.

the tach moves while cranking and so does the oil pressure. it getting fuel pressure and everything. wait to start light comes on. a friend of the family came over with a computer to see if there was codes but i guess the batteries were to dead and it would just shut the power to the code reader off and would disconnect from the computer. and hes hasnt had time to come over and ive tried to call him with no response. so im kinda left in the dark getting pissed. is there any way to test the idm and the ecm with out a code reader. it cranks over fast and strong, its just like the injectors dont want to fire. will run off either with glow plug disconnected. i have checked everything i can think of, it has to come down to one of these two thing and with them both being over 250 i dont want to blow money i dont really have to blow. i would rather spend it on something else.
 

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Demon Dually
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Your fuel bowl heater shorted out blowing fuse 22. That also controls power to the PCM. Unplug the heater plug from the fuel bowl, check/replace fuses as necessary and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i have. i unpluged it out side of it and then decided to take the element out of the bowl too. i never pluged it back in on the outside would that affect anything? i changed the fuse and it hasnt blow while cranking but it still wont start. i took the idm apart to see if it was croded and that but it looks brand new inside. it was smoking before while cranking but now it wont. it like the injector arent even fireing. i can spray either in it and it will run off that nut it just wont start. im just really confuse. tach moves while cranking, cranks fast and sounds free just wont fire over. no smoke. only time i get a little smoke is while on either and i hate using it. has brand new rebulit start bc i killed the other one. there oil pressure. strong batteries.
 

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Demon Dually
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You need to hook a scanner to it. You aren't getting fuel. If it runs off the ether then it will run. You need to find out if the IPR is working. How do you know you have fuel pressure? Just because you have fuel in the bowl doesn't mean that you have enough pressure for it to run. Have you also checked to see if your HPOP resevoir is full?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
im waiting on the a##hole to come over with the computer. i have check the hpop reswior andit is full, i'll have to pick up a gauge to test the fuel pressure, can i just presurize the tank to act like the fuel pump. i think i seen some where on here that fuel pressure supose to be around 50 psi for the superduty is it the same for the obs trucks
 

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I had the same problem a few months ago, from what it sounds like it's the IDM. When you plug the scanner I doubt you will find codes, mine didnt throw any. I replaced everything UVCH, CPS, fuel pump, IPR valve, injector o rings and nothing...wouldnt even smoke. It would only run on ether. There is no way to test, it either works or it doesnt. PM me and I'll tell you where I found mine fairly inexpensive. When I put the new IDM in the truck fired instantly.
 

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Demon Dually
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Actually you can test to see if the IDM works. If your scanner can do an injector buzz test you would know whether or not the injectors are firing and if none of the injectors buzz then you can guarantee it is the IDM.
 

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Actually you can test to see if the IDM works. If your scanner can do an injector buzz test you would know whether or not the injectors are firing and if none of the injectors buzz then you can guarantee it is the IDM.
what if you do the injector buzz and only the driver side odd bank fires?
 

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Thanks for searching but this thread is 9 years old. None of these people are here anymore. Easiest way to test one is to put in one that you know works.

I would check over your uvch on the side that doesn’t work.
 

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One bank shutting down would tell me that there is a wiring problem. Either they are shorting out or grounding.

Here is a link to a test that you can do with a volt/ohm meter to determine if the wiring is the problem.
 

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