[WaltKowalski]

After installing new heads in my early '04 6.0, I started cranking to build oil pressure. 10-15 seconds with 45 seconds in between.
I have a hollow, thumping sound on the driver's side, at the same point in each cycle.
I pulled the valve cover and checked my rockers, push rods, and bridges. All seems to be in order.
When it's cranking, I can hear what seems to be a sucking sound from the intake valve, and the thumping from the exhaust valve, in the #2 cylinder.
No previous problems with the lifters that I am aware of. Ran great before the head gasket failure.
I'm at a loss, and obviously need some experienced guidance.

 

[bismic1]

In our PM's you mentioned that it seemed isolated to the #2 cylinder. Do you still feel that it is only cylinder #2?

Also we talked about hand cranking. Have you watched the valve operation while someone hand cranked?

Couple more questions:

• Is your oil filter cap (and oil filter) an OEM one, or aftermarket? The best way to identify this issue is to post a picture of the top of your engine with a clear view of the oil filter cap. The aftermarket caps are taller than the OEM one.
• Also, you might consider pulling your oil pressure regulator - it is down by the harmonic balancer. I can post some youtube videos on that if that would help you. Just looking for plunger/spring sticking or debris.

​

The aftermarket tall oil filter cap comes with an integral oil filter. Sometimes many people reuse the cap even though it is specifically inscribed on the cap not to do so. When an OEM filter is installed in this taller cap and then installed in the engine, the filter will not extend far enough downward to close the oil filter housing drain valve, This will cause low pressure and low flow in the base oil system.

One other thing we didn't talk about is that an early HPOP can lose a pressed in "BB" from the side of the pump. Since this BB is on the suction side, it can cause low base oil pressure when cranking - IF it has fallen out.

I'm sure folks like @HydroTek will be along shortly with some other ideas.

LPOP regulator change-out (see the 6:13 minute mark in the video below):​

Also:

Oil Pressure Regulator Replacement - write up. - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

6.0L Power Stroke Diesel - Oil Pressure Regulator Replacement - write up. - I swapped the regulator recently as part of some other trouble shooting I'm doing. Simple enough but maybe this will help someone so here's how it went... The regulator is located under the truck, just behind the...

www.ford-trucks.com

 

[WaltKowalski]

I do believe that the #2 is the only culprit.
When cranking by hand, it seems to be the same, except the sounds are a slight hissing.
I'll send pics of the top of the engine, as well as the area in question, but I believe that the oil filter cap concern is not an issue, since I have the BPD oil cooler, with remote filters.
I only put a cap on the original filter canister because it didn't have one at all. I'll attach pics of these as well.
My in dash oil pressure guage is showing pressure. I thought my SCT tuner would have a better indication of oil pressure, but I didn't see any option in the diagnostic displays that covers it.
I also have a Foxwell diagnostic tool that was recommended for the 6.0, but it doesn't seem to have a dedicated indicator either.
I'll post this and the pics, and I'll look into where I can pick up a new oil pressure regulator kit locally.
Thank you for your time and consideration.

I downloaded forscan lite and ordered the bafx Bluetooth dongle, but it hasn't been delivered yet.

 

[bismic1]

Our engines were equipped with ONLY an oil pressure switch. That switch ties directly into the dash gauge. It does not go to the PCM. That switch is activated at 5-7 psi. It is not very useful IMO.

Good to know on the BPD system. If you mentioned it before, then I forgot (and apologize up front for a "marginal" memory)!

Appreciate the pics.

One other thing - you couldn't have any significant amount of fuel in the oil could you? Sometimes that can happen after messing with injectors.

 

[matthewd11]

Thumping noise audible from the exhaust is usually from a valve being open/stuck at the wrong time. Thumping out the intake is usually from exhaust valve not opening, out the exhaust can indicate intake valve not opening or barely opening . I would think you would have very low if not any compression on the offending cylinder though. All rockers move the same on all cylinders?? Have you measured the rocker travel with a dial indicator to be sure?

Is it possible you didn’t have a pushrod seated correctly when you torqued the rockers down?

 

[bismic1]

I was concerned with a lifter that "bled down".

 

[matthewd11]

I was concerned with a lifter that "bled down".

That is very possible, and he should be able to see this turning the motor over

 

[WaltKowalski]

I drained and refilled the oil to check for water and fuel, since I had everything apart. No water, no fuel.
The pushrods seemed to be in good condition and position when I double checked before torquing everything down.
What would I be seeing if the lifter bled down, while cranking?
How do I post a video here?
I keep getting a message saying that the file is not supported.

 

[matthewd11]

I drained and refilled the oil to check for water and fuel, since I had everything apart. No water, no fuel.
The pushrods seemed to be in good condition and position when I double checked before torquing everything down.
What would I be seeing if the lifter bled down, while cranking?
How do I post a video here?
I keep getting a message saying that the file is not supported.

You’ll have to host it through YouTube or something similar.

 

[WaltKowalski]

 

[matthewd11]

Have you pulled the other side valve cover?

 

[WaltKowalski]

No.
The sound is coming from the front end of the driver's side.

 

[matthewd11]

It sounds like you have more or less even compression by the sound of the load on the starter. Do you have FICM sync/sync, FICM injector power, proper fuel pressure and ICP pressure?

 

[WaltKowalski]

My ficm checks out at 48 volts, and I'm showing 12.5 volts for ficm Ignition while it's plugged in.
I'm not sure how to test my ICP pressure.
My fuel pressure guage (in photos) reads right about 50 psi when cranking.

 

[matthewd11]

50 psi is on the low side. I would see if you can check your ICP pressure but you’ll need a scan tool or FORscan for your phone.

Believe it or not I’ve actually had the LPOP make that type of noise before in a crank no start.

 

[WaltKowalski]

I have a Bluetooth adapter on it's way, so I can use forscan.
I'm not sure if it's actually a crank/no start, because I pulled the ficm relay until I know it has enough pressure. I installed a higher output alternator and don't want to fry the ficm with the cranking.
What was the problem with your LPOP when it made the same sound?

 

[matthewd11]

I have a Bluetooth adapter on it's way, so I can use forscan.
I'm not sure if it's actually a crank/no start, because I pulled the ficm relay until I know it has enough pressure. I installed a higher output alternator and don't want to fry the ficm with the cranking.
What was the problem with your LPOP when it made the same sound?

It’s not actually a problem. It’s the noise from the hydraulics I believe. I’m not sure if the pump is in pressure relief or not, but as soon as the engine starts it doesn’t make the noise any more. You can probably hear it because you aren’t fighting noise from combustion with it’s just cranking.

 

[bismic1]

IMO, if you feel that all is correct with valve bridges, rocker arms, valve operation by observation when hand turning, then you could probably go ahead and crank some more with the key. To be a little more safe when cranking, you could crank with the glow plugs out - it puts less strain on the overall system but still gets the LPOP turning.

I have a gut feel that it might be the HPOP - the pressed in BB may have fallen out.

 

[bismic1]

It’s not actually a problem. It’s the noise from the hydraulics I believe. I’m not sure if the pump is in pressure relief or not, but as soon as the engine starts it doesn’t make the noise any more. You can probably hear it because you aren’t fighting noise from combustion with it’s just cranking.

Hope you are right!

 

[HydroTek]

A few observations:
I hear a hissing - air leak
def hear the the thump
also a little uneven in the compression

For sure there were not any broken rings when assembling the engine ?
EDIT: nevermind, was just new heads

The Thump, could be a collapsed lifter -- and may correct with starting the engine
at this point, I think that is what I would do next -- start up and see if the thump clears

At the same time look for "puffing" of the crankcase gasses

Then monitor the "hissing" -- may be just rings that have not "seated" well
if the thump continues after running the engine, then need to determine which lifter needs replacing
you can get a dial indicator (cheap one is fine -- Shars or HF) and measure the rocker arm lift for each cylinder -- PIA but will root out the culprit