I have heard some people say the 6.0s already have this...is this true? If not, is there a write-up for an upfitter switch or is it the same as the 6.4 writeup?
derrick
All '05+ trucks have logic in the computer built in for high idle. Most use upfitter switches as the switch and connect it to one of the blunt-cut wires down by the parking brake.
I used the instructions here: Howto: 05-06 High Idle (AIC/SEIC/BCP) - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com but i also think there are instruction on this site as well if you search around.
I used the instructions here: Howto: 05-06 High Idle (AIC/SEIC/BCP) - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com but i also think there are instruction on this site as well if you search around.
I wired mine up pretty quick, I would say you could do it in about 20 minutes. These trucks have it built in for PTO and ambulance uses.
You have to pull the main fuse box out under the steering column; four bolts.
Then you need to find two wires. One that reads "BPC" and one that corresponds with the upfitter switch you want to use. Both wires are taped together in seperate bundles.
Splice the two together with a connector! Mine was a stretch to fit, but i got it after adjusting everything.
Works great for keeping the A/C cold when you run into a store really quick, or when you start the truck in the morning. The truck has to be in park and with the emergency brake on.
You have to pull the main fuse box out under the steering column; four bolts.
Then you need to find two wires. One that reads "BPC" and one that corresponds with the upfitter switch you want to use. Both wires are taped together in seperate bundles.
Splice the two together with a connector! Mine was a stretch to fit, but i got it after adjusting everything.
Works great for keeping the A/C cold when you run into a store really quick, or when you start the truck in the morning. The truck has to be in park and with the emergency brake on.
The only way I know is because somebody showed me what wires to hook up. hahaha... I talk like I know... I dont though...
It came on my 06, in cold weather, after i start her up, she will start idling up, makes it nice 5 minutes later coming out to a warm truck.
I would think yes. It is putting a load on the motor similar to cruising around under a couple pounds of boost. I feel safe driving my truck for hours on end, so I feel confident to let it sit on high idle for a while...
mine would idle factory to 1200 in the cold after like 5 minutes. but i wired up the high idle for jumping people and on demand high idle for winter.. took like 20 minutes
From the factory it will idle up after a few minutes. The high idle mod that we are talking about is connected off the "Battery Charge Protector" circuit. It will actually fluctuate the idle from 1200-2400, depending on the load the battery is taking. SO it does work great for the extreme weather starts, but is ideal for battery jumping. You can flick the switch to, it will idle up to 1200, then when you connect the cables and try to turn over the dead car, it will idle up to 2400. Factory perameters, so yes safely. For hours? Not sure. I know the feature is instilled for emergency vehicle use. So it is a possibility.
Intereesting, I would like to know this too. You will need an aux switch, since you dont have the upfitters. Unless ou have installed them yourself
High does a couple things, also differs on how you hook it up. If you hook it up to the BSP wire, it will idle the truck up to make sure the battery is taking a charge at all times. So when you hook up jumpers to the truck, when the other car takes a load, the powerstroke will automatically idle up to prevent a strain on your battery, and keep a charge going. Also, when you leave it running to go into a store, it will keep your turbo from premature soot up. The most handy reason is it keeps the AC cold in the summer, and the heater hot in the winter.
Should work in a standard tranny. E-brake has to be on though.
Should work in a standard tranny. E-brake has to be on though.
My truck auto idles up when its cold, and when its work doesn't the heat still blow warm? Premature soot up will blow out when you take off and usually when i jump a vehicle i always have my foot on the accelerator to keep a steady high rpm??? Battery has a maintainer connected to it with an additional electrical plug allowing me to charge the batteries at any time. However i am interested in keeping the heater warm in the winter, does the truck cool itself down??? And if so will the automatic high idle kick it back up?
it's actually really really easy to run it to a switch. took me like 30 minutes. spent most the time mounting the switch and running the power.
ok.. i did this on my 04 this past weekend, literaly took 20 minutes to do. from 99 up these trucks came with an "aux pto wiring harness." this is used primarley for emergengy vehicles...ambulance, fire truck,etc. the two wires are under the dash.. you want to go to google or yahoo and type in "the tac 1200 mod." hook the 2 wires together with a switch and done. very simple. if yall got any questons pm me
I personally love how loud the turbo screams with the high idle (esp with a bigger turbo). It is pretty amusing to come out of the store and watch people try to figure out what the hell sounds like a jet plane. :evil
this will not work on a manual trans. Hear is a write up I found for doing it to a manual but it takes a little longer
1999-2004 $10/$15 Auxiliary Idle Controller (AIC)
This modification will allow you to manually set and adjust the idle speed of your 1999-2004 7.3L Power Stroke without spending $400-600 for the factory AIC. The $15 AIC option will add a indicator light to let you know the AIC is on. The 1999+ trucks will high idle automatically during the colder months when the oil is cold, but an AIC is handy for:
avoiding wet stacking, caused by idling after the post turbo EGT falls below 275 degrees
getting full power out of the AC during pit stops
jump-starting another vehicle without having to sit in the truck
impressing your friends with your awesome electrical know-how
It should not be used as a low speed cruise control for safety reasons. Neither the $10 or the $15 will disengage if the brakes are applied. If there is enough interest, I will design an AIC that can only be used when the parking brake is set.
Why you might want to buy the Ford AIC
It can automatically put your truck into high idle when the parking brake is applied
It has a digital display
It will hold an exact RPM. The $10/$15 will vary speed slightly as the engine warms/cools
It has a warrenty
more info
If you're still with me, here's how to build your own.
Time required
About 1-2 hours
Items needed:
R1 potentiometer with linear taper (see Table 1 for values)
R2 potentiometer with linear taper (see Table 1 for values)
2 knobs for above potentiometers
Double pole, single throw (DPST) switch
16 guage wires (4 colors: red, green, brown, grey)
Electrical tape
Heat shrink tubing
TABLE 1
Values for R1 & R2 potentiometers 1999-2002 7.3 L 2003 7.3 L 2003 6.0 L 2004 6.0 L
R1 5K 50K ? ?
R2 5K 10K ? ?
NOTE: This article is still a work in progress, so if you have done this to your truck please send me the R1 and R2 values you used.
When I installed my AIC on my 2003 7.3L, I found it needs vastly differnt R1 and R2 values than anything posted out there. I have the feeling that the 6.0 L's would need different values as well.
Extra items for $15 AIC:
LED and holder
1N4004 Diode
680 ohm resistor
16 guage wire (red, black)
Tools required:
multi-meter
slot screwdriver
wire strippers
Soldering iron and solder
adjustable wrench
allen key
lighter
hack saw
drill, dremel tool, etc as required to mount controls
$10 AIC procedure
Figure 1
$10 AIC diagram
Locate the accelerator pedal and remove the 3 fasteners to remove it.
Locate the wires with the following colors in the wiring harness connected to the pedal:
Red w/ yellow tracer
Red w/ green tracer
Brown w/ white tracer
Grey w/ white tracer
Strip and solder approximately 2' (or more depending on where you want to mount the controls) of the following wires to the above wires:
Yellow
Green
Brown
Grey
Connect the yellow and green leads to one pole of the DPST switch (so that the yellow and green leads are electrically connected when the switch is on). Check with the multimeter.
Open fuse panel access cover on the driver's side
Connect the brown lead to the left terminal of the R1 potentiometer. Connect more brown wire to the center terminal of the R1 potentiometer.
Cut off excess post on the R1 potentiometer and mount it behind the fuse panel access cover. Install the knob with an allen key.
Connect the brown lead from the center of the R1 potentiometer to the other pole of the DPST switch.
Run a grey lead from the last terminal of the DPST switch to the left terminal of the R2 potentiometer.
Connect the grey lead from the accelerator pedal to the center terminal of the R2 potentiometer.
Ensure that all connections are not grounded or touching.
With the mulimeter, set the R1 potentiometer to half and the R2 potentiometer to 0 ohms.
Set the DPST switch to off.
Test and Tune
Start the truck and allow to idle for 1 min. Flip the DPST switch to on. Adjust the R1 potentiometer until idle speed is approximately 1100-1200 rpm. The full range of the R2 potentiometer should change the idle speed ~ 100 rpm. Once you are satisfied with the idle speed and range of adjustment, tape down the knob on the R1 potentiometer. Flip the DPST to off. Idle speed should return to 600-700 rpm.
final installation
Mount the DPST switch and R2 potentiometer as desired
Reinstall accelerator pedal
Heat shrink and/or tape all electrical connections and zip tie loose wires
Reinstall fuse panel access cover
Grab a cold one and admire your work
Take a picture of your install and email it to me!
$15 AIC procedure
This version adds an LED indicator that lights up with the AIC is in use.
Figure 2
$15 AIC diagram
Follow steps 1-13 of the $10 AIC procedure.
Cut the green lead wire 1-2" from the DPST switch.
Solder the red lead and the anode (+) of the diode to the green lead coming from the DPST switch (double check this step)
Solder the Cathode (-) of the diode to the remaining green lead.
Solder the red lead to the (+) terminal of the LED
Solder the black wire to the (-) terminal of the LED
Connect this black lead to ground
Test and tune per $10 AIC
Use the LED holder to mount the LED during the final installation phase.
1999-2004 $10/$15 Auxiliary Idle Controller (AIC)
This modification will allow you to manually set and adjust the idle speed of your 1999-2004 7.3L Power Stroke without spending $400-600 for the factory AIC. The $15 AIC option will add a indicator light to let you know the AIC is on. The 1999+ trucks will high idle automatically during the colder months when the oil is cold, but an AIC is handy for:
avoiding wet stacking, caused by idling after the post turbo EGT falls below 275 degrees
getting full power out of the AC during pit stops
jump-starting another vehicle without having to sit in the truck
impressing your friends with your awesome electrical know-how
It should not be used as a low speed cruise control for safety reasons. Neither the $10 or the $15 will disengage if the brakes are applied. If there is enough interest, I will design an AIC that can only be used when the parking brake is set.
Why you might want to buy the Ford AIC
It can automatically put your truck into high idle when the parking brake is applied
It has a digital display
It will hold an exact RPM. The $10/$15 will vary speed slightly as the engine warms/cools
It has a warrenty
more info
If you're still with me, here's how to build your own.
Time required
About 1-2 hours
Items needed:
R1 potentiometer with linear taper (see Table 1 for values)
R2 potentiometer with linear taper (see Table 1 for values)
2 knobs for above potentiometers
Double pole, single throw (DPST) switch
16 guage wires (4 colors: red, green, brown, grey)
Electrical tape
Heat shrink tubing
TABLE 1
Values for R1 & R2 potentiometers 1999-2002 7.3 L 2003 7.3 L 2003 6.0 L 2004 6.0 L
R1 5K 50K ? ?
R2 5K 10K ? ?
NOTE: This article is still a work in progress, so if you have done this to your truck please send me the R1 and R2 values you used.
When I installed my AIC on my 2003 7.3L, I found it needs vastly differnt R1 and R2 values than anything posted out there. I have the feeling that the 6.0 L's would need different values as well.
Extra items for $15 AIC:
LED and holder
1N4004 Diode
680 ohm resistor
16 guage wire (red, black)
Tools required:
multi-meter
slot screwdriver
wire strippers
Soldering iron and solder
adjustable wrench
allen key
lighter
hack saw
drill, dremel tool, etc as required to mount controls
$10 AIC procedure
Figure 1
$10 AIC diagram
Locate the accelerator pedal and remove the 3 fasteners to remove it.
Locate the wires with the following colors in the wiring harness connected to the pedal:
Red w/ yellow tracer
Red w/ green tracer
Brown w/ white tracer
Grey w/ white tracer
Strip and solder approximately 2' (or more depending on where you want to mount the controls) of the following wires to the above wires:
Yellow
Green
Brown
Grey
Connect the yellow and green leads to one pole of the DPST switch (so that the yellow and green leads are electrically connected when the switch is on). Check with the multimeter.
Open fuse panel access cover on the driver's side
Connect the brown lead to the left terminal of the R1 potentiometer. Connect more brown wire to the center terminal of the R1 potentiometer.
Cut off excess post on the R1 potentiometer and mount it behind the fuse panel access cover. Install the knob with an allen key.
Connect the brown lead from the center of the R1 potentiometer to the other pole of the DPST switch.
Run a grey lead from the last terminal of the DPST switch to the left terminal of the R2 potentiometer.
Connect the grey lead from the accelerator pedal to the center terminal of the R2 potentiometer.
Ensure that all connections are not grounded or touching.
With the mulimeter, set the R1 potentiometer to half and the R2 potentiometer to 0 ohms.
Set the DPST switch to off.
Test and Tune
Start the truck and allow to idle for 1 min. Flip the DPST switch to on. Adjust the R1 potentiometer until idle speed is approximately 1100-1200 rpm. The full range of the R2 potentiometer should change the idle speed ~ 100 rpm. Once you are satisfied with the idle speed and range of adjustment, tape down the knob on the R1 potentiometer. Flip the DPST to off. Idle speed should return to 600-700 rpm.
final installation
Mount the DPST switch and R2 potentiometer as desired
Reinstall accelerator pedal
Heat shrink and/or tape all electrical connections and zip tie loose wires
Reinstall fuse panel access cover
Grab a cold one and admire your work
Take a picture of your install and email it to me!
$15 AIC procedure
This version adds an LED indicator that lights up with the AIC is in use.
Figure 2
$15 AIC diagram
Follow steps 1-13 of the $10 AIC procedure.
Cut the green lead wire 1-2" from the DPST switch.
Solder the red lead and the anode (+) of the diode to the green lead coming from the DPST switch (double check this step)
Solder the Cathode (-) of the diode to the remaining green lead.
Solder the red lead to the (+) terminal of the LED
Solder the black wire to the (-) terminal of the LED
Connect this black lead to ground
Test and tune per $10 AIC
Use the LED holder to mount the LED during the final installation phase.
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