[lwrhack]

The only other thing i can think of is the new headgaskets have the copper ring on them for the push rods...Maybe some came off??

 

[lwrhack]

Well guys....so I have a verdict.
Someone, I'm assuming well before me....drop a washer and a cam seal. It was sitting in oil pan getting all chewed up...late night...but took oil pan off, check rod bearings. Engine is spotless inside...oil pan however had all this...see photos.

 

[matthewd11]

That definitely could be wrist pin bushing. Definitely some kind of bearing/bushing material. As far as that seal I don’t know what that is for. No real small seals like that used in this motor. Only thing I can think of is hpop shaft seal, but not sure how that would get past the gear. Looks like there is some metal in the deep part of the pan in the first photo too.

If it was mine I’d pull the motor and tear it down

 

[lwrhack]

Have already commenced to tear it apart. We shall see what in the world that was exactly.

 

[lwrhack]

Well then. I have answers...looks like cylinder 3-4 where giving me trouble. Ran test turning injectors on and off. Looks like cylinder 3 and 4 have died. Replaced injectors, ran and started fine...no weird noises, but still a misfire persisted. Removed engine, pulled the dang thing apart...to find out that there is a piece of piston ring missing, "cylinder 4", and that cylinder 3/4 main bearing had spun. Rod bearings where prefect. Go figure. Time to rebuild it tomorrow. See photos.

 

[matthewd11]

What’s the block/bedplate look like where the main bearings sit? The block and crank might be a paper weight. Be sure to pull the wrist pins out and carefully check the bushings in the rods.

How does the gerotor pump look like and the front cover where it rides?

I suggest investing in a good 2-6” dial bore gauge and some quality micrometers. I am partial to mitutoyo

 

[lwrhack]

Mitituyo is by far my favorite.
Front cover has zero scaring. Looks brand new.
Bed plate looks as if nothing is wrong. No scaring either. Crank shows maybe a few signs of spun main bearing, overheating purplish color near the mains on the counter weight part of crank. Wrist pins are in near perfect condition Percaliper gauge in multiple points.

Will be investigating more very soon. Late wake up...

 

[matthewd11]

It’s not the pins that wear, but the bushings in the rods. They also spin. It’s somewhat common. Look for an out of place bushing or one that has walked a little bit. Last one I did I had to get 8 rods for it. Make sure you get a good measurement on the ID of the main bores with the bedplate torqued down (without the bearings). If you aren’t familiar with bore gauges you set them with a micrometer.

Wouldn’t surprise me in the least if you need to have the crank ground at minimum

 

[lwrhack]

Well ladies and gentlemen. My wife and I have fully rebuilt the engine. Problem was cylinder 3-4 main bearing spun. The number 4 piston had a crushed ring on the 2nd landing. The scraper ring was missing a section and there was a small chunk missing right below it...

New rods, piston, mains later....and a few other small mods...im happy to report running again. No check engine and no issues. Doing second oil change tomorrow afternoon and going for a longer test drive 100-200 miles and running everything.

 

[bismic1]

Congrats! That is a big job.

Also, thanks for keeping the thread updated.

 

[matthewd11]

Well done. You two got that done quickly.

No machine work? If not I wish you the best of luck.

 

[lwrhack]

We did the machine work ourselves.

 

[lwrhack]

Everything was very much in spec though. Mains where at 80.98. Rods within 0.0005. Cylinder roundness was with specs. Cross hatch was done lightly. Ridge reamer the top a bit. Checked flatness on heads and plained them out slightly again. Just in case

 

[matthewd11]

What was the measurement of the bore at the ridge or about first two inches of depth. These engines are nearly always out of tolerance there. Even on “good” running engines. Did you check around the exhaust valve seats/injector bore hole for cracks in the heads? Very common. I’m surprised there is no cylinder damage with a broken ring. Did you use new connecting rod bolts? They are a 1 time use fastener. I’m also surprised you had no bed plate bolts stretch on you on the final 170 sequence. I have had many do this when reusing them so I always get new bolts on the ones I do.

Were the rods .0005 above the maximum limit? I also very surprised with a spun main bearing you had no crank damage and did not need a polish at minimum. No wrist pin bushings were out of place in the rods? I am also surprised at that If that was the case.

im only saying these things because I don’t want to see you have wasted alot of time and money to take a couple of short cuts. In all sincerity I do with you the best of luck with the engine.