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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 95 f350 with a 7.3 I bought about 2 months ago the odometer and speedo didn’t work I changed psom so I don’t know how many miles it has. The first time it died on me just lost power like I ran out of fuel. Added about 5 gallons to each tank as I wasn’t sure they switched worked or the selector valve as I changed both reverently before. Cranking but no start so I changed a relay on the driver side next to The power box two relays side by side one was turning on the other wasn’t so I figured that was it. Changed it and it magically started. Weird I know. So I got it home checked codes and got cps can’t remember code off top of head. So I change the cam sensor and it’s good a week later my driver side uvch went out so I changed it. A week later it dies again I check codes and it still the cps but it’s brand new so I changed it again and the harness that looked fine cracked but no start I shot a little starting fluid and it magically fired right up like nothing ever happened. Worked fine another week. DIES again this time not even starting fluid got her going.... so I’m thinking it’s electrical something with glow plugs I’m not sure how Diesel engine work but it’s wasn’t looking good for me. I’m poking around for a while unplugged a sensor on driver side can’t remember name nothing no start. Take my batteries to get charged no start. I did notice white smoke after excessive cracking. So I get out and start banging on the ipr and it fired right up without hesitation.... now it’s working fine... so I’m thinking the ipr is out can I get some input to let me know for sure I don’t want to dump 200 on a maybe like I did the last 3 or 4 times for a weeks worth of driving... my question is could it have been the ipr the whole time and I just got lucky and it started... like that relay now weeks after rediagnosing I’m about 80% sure has nothing to do with the engine running. And I’m also convinced the starting fluid created some sort of seal or vacuum or something when it turned over and it was able to keep going
 

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I really wouldn't use starting fluid on any diesel but everyone has their own opinions on it. Your IPR could be dirty. You can disassemble it and clean it with carb cleaner. Unless the solenoid is bad, or it's it reassembled incorrectly, that should fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It died on me again today my trick of tapping the ipr did nothing this time I’m 50% sure it’s either the ipr or the hpop but then I’m not a mechanic I could be going in the wrong direction the truck only made it about 5 miles down the road then died .... my question is could it be the ipr ?does it open and close while the truck is on I thought it just opened or closed during start and stop ... will the ipr cause it to die and not turn on
 

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The IPR restricts oil being dumped from the high pressure oil rail. If it doesn't build pressure then the truck will not run. The IPR is constantly adjusting the high pressure oil as required by the PCM. I would start with the IPR (get the OEM one - some have luck with aftermarket units, but it seems most agree that it is best to just buy the Ford unit). I would also get FORScan and an adapter to read the PCM PID data to really get an idea of what your engine is doing. USB wise I'd get and OBDlink EX (recommended by FORScan) and plug it into your computer and capture data with it (just make sure it is plugged in and active before you start the truck - it will cause a hiccup if you connect while driving), BAFX makes a bluetooth/wifi unit that you can connect to your phone and it is given good marks by several members here on the forum.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome that is exactly what I was wondering if it is constantly moving then I can see it getting stuck again .... today I’ll buy the ipr and see if that helps it’s like 210 at local autozone the dealer wand 539 plus tax .... I do have the aero force Inception scan gauge that monitors live data and does buzz test and cylinder test what should I be monitoring or looking for the truck isn’t throwing codes .... I will buy forscan though to see if I can pull any codes with that one
 

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If you can read PIDs can you also capture data? I understand that similar systems are able to spit the info out in .cvs format. You might also look at Riffraff or Dieselsite if you can wait on the part to be shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I’m not sure what PIDs or capturing live data is or what .cvs format is to know what I’m looking for .... I know u can check all kinds of random stuff from battery to coolant temp trans temp icp boost gear speed oil temp stuff like that there is probably like 20 things give or take that it monitors plus pulls codes
 

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16 (this is the IPR) and 17 (ICP) on your list are the parameters you want. I would also grab 3 and 14. .cvs = comma separated value file - use with a spreadsheet like Excel.
 

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Get an IPR from someplace like Diesel O-Rings.com or Riff Raff. It will be cheaper and it will be a Ford part. Don't get it at AZ! Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alright I’ll check those parameters when I get home from work I think ipr was 12.8 or 14.8 when running can’t remember. But I’m more than sure it was 14.8 ... I ordered from riff raff it was cheaper I had never heard of that site before .... so I guess now wait a couple of days and see if that fixes the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The ipr came in today I switched it and no dice I cracked and cracked but nothing it sounds like it wants it to but it it doesn’t.... wait to start comes on for about 5-7 seconds then goes off I didn’t notice any smoke so I guess that means no fuel... it did start for A few seconds one time by holding the gas pedal to the floor then stumbled and died.... I took my batteries to get charged again so I can do more diagnosing.... my injectors all buzz on the test but I’m lost...can’t really afford $100/hr for mechanic to diagnose plus tow fee... what should I be looking towards next
 

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As you are cranking, are you getting smoke out the tail pipe still? I notice you mentioned that a while back. If you are, then the pcm is commanding the injectors to open, and if you have smoke, it's more than likely because the glow plug system isnt working correctly. I would check there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay so I put the fully charged battery and it fired up running like crap sounding like a cylinder or two weren’t firing I had already changed driver uvch so I started messing with the passenger side unplugged the front and no change plug it back up unplug the back and it died so I may change the harness too while I’m inspecting the glow plugs... by glow plug system what else are you referring too other than the plugs them self I think the relay is good you can hear two very distinctive clicks when I cycle the key I’m guessing fuel and glow plugs both turning on ... at least it turned on again and I don’t feel like I wasted 200$
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Also so I double checked I am blowing smoke will cranking I mean not right away but after about 5 seconds or so of cranking it starts pouring out I did a buzz test on injectors they all buzzed but it came back with 1271 1273 1277 I’m guessing it’s cylinder 1 3 and 7 something is going on I hope it’s just a loose wire or broken connection but I’m more than sure that’s why nothing changed when I unplugged the front two cylinders then it died when I unplugged the other cuz it was only running on 4 cylinders
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay so I ohmed the glow plugs from the uvch.... I think lol .... I used a fluke 375 fc so it’s pretty accurate I think ... cylinder 1- 7.5 ohm .cylinder 2-was open couldn’t get a reading or the ohm meter to beep usually it beeps when it gets a reading but nothing .cylinder 3 -16.5 ohm .cylinder 4 -0.1 ohm .cylinder 5 -4.0 ohm .cylinder 6 -0.1 ohm .cylinder 7 -1.3 ohm .cylinder 8 -0.1 ohm .... conclusion .... I have no idea what’s in spec and what’s not .... the driver side seem all pretty consistent aside from the first pin that has no reading maybe I didn’t push the wire in all the way when I changed the uvch I could have swore I did as I remember it was the last one I went from back to front plugging everything back up .... the passenger side are all over the place so I’m pretty sure they bad .... any advice
 

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The glow plug range should be between 0.6 and 2 ohms.

Looks like you have a glow plug job coming up. Motorcraft ZD11's only on the glow plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So in that case they are all bad.... the one with no reading could it be completely burned out or more like a wiring issue
 

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These are tests I use. Don't forget about the GPR.

For checking the injector/glowplug wiring: From each valvecover gasket connection's outermost pins (2 per connector) to ground you should get 0.1 to 2 ohms (indicates good plug and wiring). From each valvecover gasket connection's center pin to each immediately adjacent pin, you should get around 3 ohms (indicates good injector solenoid and wiring). You should not get any continuity from any of the outer pins to the 3 inner pins (indicates no shorts between injector and glowplug wiring). You should also get 0 to 1 ohms from each of the external harness connectors outer pins back to the Glowplug Relay's large terminal on the GP side (indicates good wiring from external connections back to the relay).

To check the glowplug relay (GPR), measure the voltage drop across the GPR's large terminals. While the GPR is active (up to 1.5 to 2 minutes after the key is turned to Wait-to-Start) put your meter leads on the large terminals (one lead on one large terminal and the other lead on the other large terminal). This measures how much voltage is being "lost" across the relay. A reading of 0.3V or more indicates a bad relay. Also, check the relay’s control wires (smaller wires) disconnected from the relay for battery voltage at the Red/Light Green striped wire and ground at the Purple/Orange striped wire (check both when the key is turned to Wait-to-Start).

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Okay so I changed all 8 glow plugs plus the uvch on passenger side and the glow plug relay still no start... theDriver side uvch was changed about a month ago so it should be good.... I ran a buzz test and 1 3 and 7 failed the test does that mean right away it’s the injectors them self or Idm or pcm possibilities
 
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