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Discussion Starter #1
Went out to eat tonight and when we get back in the truck to leave it won't start. Everything is normal until you turn the key to start after the glow plug light goes out. Then nothing, no click no nothing. The lights don't dim or anything. I checked all of the fuses that relate to ignition and all were good. Any ideas where to start? It cranked fine when we left the house. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Wesley
 

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Damn, that sucks! I've heard of similar problems with ficm problems and maybe heui system too.... But those trucks at least cranked. So I'd say that's not your problem. I'd start with all the simple stuff first. Check connections at starter and solenoid and maybe ignition relay if these trucks have one. I'm new to these trucks so I'm just thinking of stuff I'd start with if it were me in your shoes. If it won't even crank, its not getting power for some reason. I.e. Loose connection, bad solenoid/relay, etc.... Or the starter just took a crap
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Any more ideas out there guys? I have checked all connections, unplugged the fan, disconnected the batteries, still nothing, truck won't crank over. It was spitting snow pretty hard this evening when I got off work so I didn't get to work on it much. Any help would be apreciated. I need to get this thing home.

Thanks,

Wesley
 

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The Unseen Mod
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Check your starter connection. It should at least crank, see if you hear anything coming from the starter, i'd go from there.
 

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does the truck have security on it. Is there a red light flashing on the dash If there is then maybe there is a moduel off line telling the truck that some one is tring to steal the truck
 

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m-chan68
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116 Posts
When you cycle the ignition key from OFF to RUN, do you hear the injectors pre-cycling ("buzzing")? Does the fuel pump cycle as well? There is a yellow with light blue striped coloured wire adjacent to the passenger side battery in the engine compartment, near the vacuum pump that has a "squeeze-and-pull" type connection. Disconnect it, and jump the male end of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. Does the starter crank when you do this? Do you have two good strong batteries?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got the truck home thanks to the advice m-chan68 gave me. Fired right up, but transmission is only using one gear which is third gear and reverse. I noticed that the transmission temp gauge never moved up to normal temperature on the way home. Since I don't have access to a scan tool does anyone have any ideas of anything that might cause this. Any and all ideas are welcome!

Thanks to everyone for your help!
Wesley
 

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m-chan68
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Got the truck home thanks to the advice m-chan68 gave me. Fired right up, but transmission is only using one gear which is third gear and reverse. I noticed that the transmission temp gauge never moved up to normal temperature on the way home. Since I don't have access to a scan tool does anyone have any ideas of anything that might cause this. Any and all ideas are welcome!

Thanks to everyone for your help!
Wesley
According to what you describe, it appears the PCM operated in FMEM (Failure Mode Effects Management) which seems to me like you have a problem in the transmission wiring/circuitry somewhere. It seems to me that the PCM wasn't "seeing" the transmission in PARK or NEUTRAL which would explain why the engine failed to crank when you cycled the key to the CRANK position. I'm assuming you were able to crank the engine over by the method I described in my previous post. The fact that your TRANS TEMP gauge was not operating and that it was operating in 5th gear on your drive home (these transmissions operate in 5th gear when in "fail safe" mode by the way), along with the fact that the engine won't crank over with the key, all points to a problem with either the transmission harness or the PCM (least likely).
 

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m-chan68
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do these have a park/neutral safety switch?
Yes. It's called a TR (Transmission Range) sensor. Changing this sensor is not an easy task. It requires transmission pan removal along with the manual lever itself. NOT a DIYer type job in my opinion.
 

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right.... I just wondered if that could've maybe been his problem? Maybe hook everything back up and if it still won't start, try it in neutral instead of park??? Just to confirm whether or not it was the problem? What all is intailed in that chan? drop pan, drop valve body and its up in there or deeper than that?
 

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m-chan68
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What all is intailed in that chan? drop pan, drop valve body and its up in there or deeper than that?
You are correct SIR. And yes, it involves removing the manual level assembly to access and replace. I've never had to replace one myself personally for the record.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally was able to get the truck scanned today. Retreived code U0101. Cleared the code and it came back again. Looks like the PCM has lost communication with the TCM. Gonna go over all the connectons again to make sure all the wiring is good but I the think I am gonna have to get a new PCM. What is the price on these things plus having it programed?

Thanks,

Wesley
 

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m-chan68
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Finally was able to get the truck scanned today. Retreived code U0101. Cleared the code and it came back again. Looks like the PCM has lost communication with the TCM. Gonna go over all the connectons again to make sure all the wiring is good but I the think I am gonna have to get a new PCM. What is the price on these things plus having it programed?

Thanks,

Wesley
According to the Ford PC/ED Pinpoint test for DTC U0101, it just instructs you to outright replace the PCM. I can count on my hands how many PCMs I've replaced, namely NONE. That being said, I suggest you "borrow" a PCM from another '03 6.0L truck (for testing purposes only of course), and plug it in to see if it resloves your issue. If it does, it looks like a PCM is what you'll need to fix your truck. And in answer to your question, YES it does need to be programmed to your truck, when you buy it new. But you can swap from another vehicle for testing purposes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When checking the connections out again, instead of just making sure all were plugged in good, started unplugging and replugging to check the connectors and when the ones for the PCM were pulled, alittle corrosion was found. Cleaned the connectors up real good and we are back in business. After checking the price on the PCM, $1092 + $110 to program it, that is enough incentive to check everything out real good. Thanks for all the help and advise.

Wesley
 

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hope someone still looks at this post but my truck has been doing about the same thing. sometimes if i keep turning the key on and off it will fire. sometimes it wont but i can jump the solenoid across with a screwdriver and itll start. that would mean it wouldnt be the starter right? maybe solenoid? if replaced it once with a used one i had and worked for a coiuple days now back to crossing it over
 
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