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Discussion Starter #1
Heys guys long time stalker first time poster! I have an 04 f250 ccsb 4wd new tires (duratraks) I know I know! New hub bearings drag link steering box steering damper rotors brakes..caliper pins not froze u joints take grease to all bearing ends! Ah I think that's it! It drives like a worn out lawn mower! I will say a smooth road it goes straight but as soon as u hit a bump it swerves left or right when u correct its to much etc etc etc! Ball joints are fine with no dragging or tight spots! Its like something is shifting It sort of feels like rear end is gonna pass front end! I've ordered leaf spring bushings should be in this week! I've got new ball joints u joints seals but reluctant to installed cause I can't find anything wrong with them but considering just to no its all new! I'm ready to go camping but a little scared to pull camper with wife and kids in truck! Any ideas or insight would be great! Thanks oh and it started this before I done any work and has got better but not where it was when I bought it 2 years ago!
 

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EA - Eggfarts Anonymous!
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i read a thread where a guy had lots of new components but a re-used a fatigued jamb nut or something similar that was not holding... if i come across it i'll post it.
edit: i didn't immediately find it lol, maybe later
 

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Guilty on all counts
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Same size tires all around? I once had different profile (larger) tires on the rear and it made the truck very twitchy to drive. Very simplistic suggestion, but easy to eliminate! Hope you get it sorted!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All same size tires! Keepem coming fellas! I'm at wits end I don't want to do all that work and have no results! It usually makes wife smile! Lol
 

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EA - Eggfarts Anonymous!
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Many times the toe setting can correct a wondering problem. Most alignment shops set the toe setting at 0 or toe out. Doing this is fine with a factory short sidewall e rated tire but with aftermarket tires with a softer side wall. I would recommend setting the toe in about 3/8" to 1/2". Measure from rim to rim front and back of the front axle at the same distance from the ground at about center of the rim and compare the measurements. The rear should be 3/8" to 1/2" wider than the front measurement. Adjust the tie rod to make adjustments. This may affect the drag link setting so you may need to adjust it to straighten the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
4WPhelper. I did move toe in about a quarter inch and did help some but its more stiff and darts more than wonders.....the ball joints move pretty free IMO the tie rods are tight but spin free with a drift punch in cotter pin hole there's no side to side play in them but I've heard of some up and down senerios but seem OK to me I've got grease coming out of all u joint caps which I guess don't mean nothing but I done the 0°and 180° test with tie rods off and nothing all moves free! Some of leaf spring bushings seem a littlecracked so iI'm gonna try that hopefully Friday night and see if it helps check everything over again and get another alingment. If anyone reads this from the Marion Indiana area that has a treating alignment man that would be great! I kinda of getting the impression most of these places here do the old toe-and-go! And don't think that's helping me any!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Turd-250 I'll definitely check the nut! Lol everything is tight that I checked and something is definitly loose
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I found my drag link nuts were loose obviously made a difference....but while I was installing leveling kit before alignment and of course after I was done I found my drivers side leaf spring was against front hanger and also against rear shackle! Well its was 1:30 in the am when I finished that! So didn't tear in to bushings! Alignment guy said it shouldn't change alignment to swap bushings out! I don't know about all that but I'm still chasing it down the road...the alignment made a big difference but still not where I want it to be! I'll get back when I swap bushing! I've never loved and hated a truck this bad in my 35 years on this planet! Good grief!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well bushing like brand new didn't bother changing them found upper ball joint bad and one lower stiff... so replaced with Moog no more darting!!! But still loose feeling I found that my tie rods spin but do not pivot?? Not sure if this is normal? Any insight would be great thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oh they are tight u can beat on them with a 2lbs hammer and nothing! I suppose that's my next project I'll be working on. Thanks again
 

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Do you have a steering stabilizer on it? I bent mine so I removed it, and was having the same issues you are. Maybe yours took a crap? My issue was solved as soon as my replacement got installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Have not played with stabilizer much did replace tie rods and I'm at about 90% but there is still a little bump steer and steer box seems kinda tight..... may try a 1/4 turn out and see if helps! Need to find a good alignment shop near the Marion Indiana area most here are tow and go shops and that don't work in this situation?? I'd like to have the caster bumped up a few degrees to see if my return to center will change
 
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