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This is a long one but I could really use the help if you can stick with me.

New to me 2006 f250 6.0. 230k miles. Blowing white smoke at startup, worse when on throttle. Already EGR deleted, no loss of coolant in the degas, and no increase in pressure with a pressure gauge tee'd into to the degas bottle (max 10psi when going up a long hill). No puking coolant. Smoke smells to me like fuel. I don't think it's a headgasket - coolant isn't getting pressurized, and I did a relative compression test with similar cranking speed all cylinders. No DTCs. Passes KOEO test without codes. FICM voltage at idle ~49V, syncs as well. Coolant temp within 10deg of oil temp. Fuel pressure checked with a manual gauge, 50+ psi idle, consistent.

I think it normally would be an injector.

But, 1500 miles ago, before I got the truck it had a new HPOP, fuel manifolds, dummy plugs, 8 injectors, oil cooler all from ford, to the tune of $10k ($$$). Ford injectors too. Was running well for 1500miles then started blowing the white smoke. Was parked after, sat for a year, then I picked it up.

Changed the fuel filter(s), drained oil fuel and put in fresh fuel. Old fuel was farm fuel (red). No change.

OK, so maybe one of the injectors were bad due to poor install. But it ran well for 1500 miles? I do a cylinder contribution test (granted, this is from a snap on scanner not IDS) and I'm having trouble interpreting the results.

The snap on one does the contribution test without compensation. I have negative values into the 30-40's for more than half of the injectors. 3 on passenger side bank (1,3,7) and two on drivers (2,8). That's idle. When I give it gas, everything goes to zero - maybe that's a snap on software fault. So when you see the graph goes to zero - it's when I'm giving it a bit of throttle.

First run



Second run





Being that it is so many injectors, I felt like it may have something to do with either the fuel or high pressure oil. Also, it isn't consistent - sometimes the cylinders are misfiring - other times not. The only real consistent bad players are cyl 1 and 2.

Which makes me think more towards fuel if it is always cyl 1 and 2 but sometimes others? I changed the fuel and filters to do the best I could if this was contamination or water in fuel.

Random other things:
engine off, EBP reads 15.9psi whereas MAP is 14.
MAP, MGP, BARO all coorelate and make sense (MAP = MGP + BARO)
When running, IAT = 30's, IAT2 (intake manifold) = 60's.

Any help making sense of this would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, forgot to add. ICP psi desired is consistent with ICP pressure. So I think that is working correctly. When it got a new HPOP it also got a new IPR

 

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I would suspect bad o-rings right off the bat with your symptoms. Just my opinion, but a contribution test will be skewed if you don't have good seals on the injectors. I'd first do a cranking bubble test....the one where you remove the cover for your secondary fuel filter and crank the engine using the lead wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I'd bet you're going to have bubbles. Could be a lot of reasons for it from a ring got pinched to a mechanic not torquing down the hold-down. Who knows. But if there are bubbles, you can determine which bank it is and even which cylinder so you don't have to r&r every o-ring.
 

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I would suspect bad o-rings right off the bat with your symptoms. Just my opinion, but a contribution test will be skewed if you don't have good seals on the injectors. I'd first do a cranking bubble test....the one where you remove the cover for your secondary fuel filter and crank the engine using the lead wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I'd bet you're going to have bubbles. Could be a lot of reasons for it from a ring got pinched to a mechanic not torquing down the hold-down. Who knows. But if there are bubbles, you can determine which bank it is and even which cylinder so you don't have to r&r every o-ring.
right on! I did a crankling bubble test - here is what it looks like. I'm thinking that is a positive test.

ww.youtube.com/watch?v=XiIF0H-jMmo

How do I determine which bank - or even which cylinder is the culprit?
 

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Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Yes, that's definitely bubbles coming from a bad injector or bad injector seal. The way to tell if it's coming from one side or the other is to disconnect the lines to each head individually and repeat the test. Yes, you will need to plug the line to the filter. And you do need to repeat it on each head, even if you have bubbles on the first, because you might still have bubbles on the second. Once you have determined which head it is (or both), remove all of your glow plugs and begin reinstalling them one at a time. So, install #7 and crank it. Write down if it bubbles or not. Remove it and install glow plug into #5 then crank. Note if you have bubbles. When you are done, you will know which injectors are responsible. Remove those injectors, inspect the tip to make sure it's not cracked or otherwise damaged, replace the o-rings and the copper washer, clean out the hold-down bolt hole, and reinstall the injector. Make sure all your glow plugs are back in. Repeat the bubble test. Should be good to go. If not, you have more severe problems than I am qualified to help with. lol
 
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