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HELP!!!HELP!!!HELP!!! 2005 ford 6.0

1462 Views 43 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  foster0440
HELP!!!HELP!!!HELP!!!2005 Ford 6.0 truck will run smooth for as long as you let it idle, once you start to go down the road and get it under a load it will die out like its starving for fuel and will not restart. FICM volts is 48 builds up over 500. fuel pressure is at 60 psi and drops down to 45 while cranking, no codes what so ever.

This morning when i got here i tried to crank it up again. it crunk up for just a few seconds and then died, i was able to pull up the power balance and the truck was running rough and it showed cylinder#1 was dropped and cylinder #3 was also low. again icp was building up to 600 psi then maxing out. i decided to unplug the ICP sensor and watch the ipr Duty cycle. with the ICP plugged in it was around 56% when i unplugged the ICP sensor the IPR maxed out at 69% generally i have seen them max out at 89 i dont want to just throw parts at it, any help would be nice. just never had an ipr cause this type of issue
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Fuel pressure dropping to 45 psig simply when cranking is telling you that you have a problem there.

Since you have a fuel pressure monitor, have you seen low fuel pressure in the past - especially at WOT?

Have you done the two "bubble tests' to look for air in the fuel system?

One is when filling an empty secondary fuel filter bowl. Takes two people. Fuel will flow with the key in the "on" position, and will flow fast. Have the person on the key ready to turn it off quickly. Look for bubbles as the bowl fills. Time how long it takes to fill the bowl.

The other test is to crank with the starter solenoid jumpered to the passenger battery + terminal. Ford gave you a connector along the passenger side fender well so you could disconnect the wire to the solenoid and it is long enough to reach the + terminal.

We can give you links to show this more specifically where that connector is if you need it. Basically the connector is near the vacuum pump and the wire is a yellow wire with a light blue stripe.

Basically you start with a secondary fuel filter bowl about 3/4 full. Then you crank and watch for bubbles. You may need to crank for 4-5 long cranks (15 seconds max on each crank with "rest" time in-between cranks). Do not overheat the starter.
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A single cylinder/injector dropping out is usually the injector, but I have seen a single injector actually be a FICM issue. Not common for sure, but it does happen.

Check the injector connectors for the cylinders that are showing up as problems on your power balance scans. Look for wiring issues also.
but once it cranks and actually runs it is as smooth as can be
Your first post says that it dies when trying to accelerate, and then it won't re-start. Grabbing cranking data when it doesn't start is the most helpful data to collect!

cranking data:
Cam/Crank Sync
Injector Pulse Width commanded
ICP Sensor volts
IPR % Duty Cycle
v-reference voltage
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Snap on zeus. connectors are good and plugged in at injector and FICM ive swapped the Ficm out with a known good one and still same issue.I was just curious with the ipr duty cycle not maxing out with the ICP unplugged if it could be an issue.
The PCM infers an ICP pressure when the sensor is unplugged. It knows when to max out the commanded IPR % Duty Cycle. I don't think that is indicative of a problem at all.
yea thats how it started was, running smooth when you get it running right and you can rev it up do a boost stand and it will not die out but if you get out on the road it will die out and have a no start issue. i have FICM sync, sync, RPM, icp goes to around 600 then defaults to around 1300 psi, while ipr duty cylce is at 56%. you unplug the icp it defaults around 1300 and IPR duty cylce is at 69%
With the ICP sensor plugged in (assuming the sensor is good), the ICP pressure value should not "default" to anything. It should read what the pressure actually is and send a voltage signal based on that.

So are you saying that when it won't start, you crank it, and when cranking it shows both SYNCs and adequate ICP pressure? Even so. I would still like to see ALL of the actual data I requested above when cranking during the no-start. I REALLY do not want to assume things based on verbiage. Just saying it has rpm means nothing to me - it wouldn't help anyone troubleshoot this.

Even if you tried a known good FICM, you could be having issues with the FICM relay, or even the logic power fuse. Numbers are the key to troubleshooting.
Question for you - when it does start, and you go to drive it, do you also turn the A/C on?

Sometimes a stuck compressor will cause a stall. It definitely can cause a no-start.
If it doesn't go past the desired ICP value, then I would worry about that right now.

Raw fuel in the exhaust is the big issue. It can cause ALL KINDS OF PROBLEMS.

You can pull glow plugs and crank and find the cylinder(s). With two "odd number" codes, I would start on the passenger side. Pull the wheel well liner for access.
It would still be good to see the ICP sensor volts - that is the only way to know for sure if that sensor is ok.

Also the injector pulse width command is a way to determine for sure that the FICM is properly doing its job.
Another name is Fuel Pulse Width. The PID name is: INJPW or FUELPW.

FuelPW is Ford's name. Some scan tools call it INJPW.
Let us know what you do next, but as I posted earlier, I would be looking for raw fuel in one of the odd cylinders.

Remove glow plugs
crank engine
Put a white towel or white paper in the path where the exhaust from the glow plug holes would be directed.

Cranking with liquid in the cylinder can eject the liquid with such force that it can irreparably damage an eye (blindness is very likely if the fluid hits the eye), or the force at which the liquid is ejected can also force that liquid into the body through the skin. That is the purpose of the white cloth or paper. It is an indicator so that you can stand a safe distance away when the engine is cranked. It is absolutely critical that your face and arms are nowhere near the path that ejected fluid might take.
I’m gonna say it’s an issue with #1 injector. Pulled all glow plugs on the passenger side and #1 tip was soaking wet. The rest were dry
You got your reply in before my last post went up, I am just slow today!

Sounds good. #1 is probably it - see what replacing it does.

IMO stay away from discount injectors. Buy Ford OEM only.

Personally I only shop at local dealerships, reputable dealerships with an on-line presence (where substantial discounts are offered), or through
EDIT - another slow post for me - sorry!

Oh - if you already have aftermarket injectors, then you might check on the warranty. If they are not under warranty, then I would not replace in kind unless that one has AT LEAST 100k miles on it.

Quality injectors should last WAY beyond 100k miles if the fuel pressure is good!
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