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Discussion Starter #1
I have a stock 2005 F250 6.0 powerstroke super duty diesel FX4. Started it up this afternoon (nice day, about 80F out) and noticed some static/crackling noise from the radio. Thought it was just bad reception but it persisted on every channel I tried. Within a few minutes the sound from the radio cut out entirely but the radio display was still on and I could change radio channels, just no sound at all. Driving and doing about 25 MPH now (also, not towing anything in case that is pertinent) and thinking I've probably got an electrical problem.

Within seconds of the radio shenanigans the dash ABS light came on, then suddenly the electronic throttle control light comes on the dash and the truck starts alternating between having power and losing power (I think this might be the "limp-home" operation).

I plugged in my Scanguage II XGauge and here are some of the readings:

ICP Fluctuating between 600-1100 (operating range should be between 0-4,045, so getting a within parameters reading)

FLP 9.0 (operating range should be between 10.5-15.5, so I'm getting low reading here)

FMP 47.5 (operating range should be between 40-52, so getting a within parameters reading)

MAP Fluctuating between 20.4 to 22.4

After being home about an hour I wanted to fire the truck back up and get some other readings (like ECT and EOT) but the truck now won't turn over. It just clicks repetitively.

Any ideas where to start troubleshooting this?
 

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Check battery connections , that’s a start . Possibly the alternator is on the way out too ...


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Sounds like a wire has shorted out somewhere in your harness. Check the obvious stuff first: battery cables, alternator wires, starter wiring, then start running your eyes along the harness. Look for chafing, breaks, and scorch marks.

Good luck!


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Discussion Starter #6
Check the connections , do you have a scan tool ?


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Connections are all good. Just checked voltage on both batteries; reading ~10.95 volts each. Not good since these batteries were replaced when I replaced the alternator a few hundred miles ago. And yes, I have the Scanguage II XGauge. Suggestions on what I scan for?
 

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Think I just confirmed that my starter is dead. I disconnected the wire to the starter solenoid and connected (the male connector end) of it directly to the positive terminal on the passenger side battery. Wouldn't crank, just clicked repeatedly and rapidly.
 

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Doesn't sound like a starter to me, sounds like low voltage, which we already knew because they're 10.9 with no load. Charge em up and get it started, then start checking the charging system.

I believe this system uses a signal from the cluster to turn on.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Doesn't sound like a starter to me, sounds like low voltage, which we already knew because they're 10.9 with no load. Charge em up and get it started, then start checking the charging system.

I believe this system uses a signal from the cluster to turn on.
You are correct, its not the starter or starter solenoid. I charged the batters and then connected the starter solenoid (male) wire directly to the positive battery terminal and it started right up. How should I go about checking the charging system?
 

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You are correct, its not the starter or starter solenoid. I charged the batters and then connected the starter solenoid (male) wire directly to the positive battery terminal and it started right up. How should I go about checking the charging system?
Get a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) and put the leads on the pos and neg of 1 battery, volts dc setting. With it running you should be seeing 13.4vdc to 14.2vdc on avg.


~DW
 

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You’ve most certainly got a charging system issue. Whether that new alternator failed, a blown fuseable link, or an issue with the alternator control.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Get a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) and put the leads on the pos and neg of 1 battery, volts dc setting. With it running you should be seeing 13.4vdc to 14.2vdc on avg.


~DW
Will check tomorrow after I get a new 250 amp fuse installed and hopefully the truck starts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You’ve most certainly got a charging system issue. Whether that new alternator failed, a blown fuseable link, or an issue with the alternator control.
Would anyone one, or more, of those issues cause what I was initially experiencing with the radio, then ABS light and electronic throttle control light coming on, then the truck entering into limp-home mode?
 

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Would anyone one, or more, of those issues cause what I was initially experiencing with the radio, then ABS light and electronic throttle control light coming on, then the truck entering into limp-home mode?


Low voltage causes all kinds of weird issues . It’s designed for use in a 12.6 to 14.5 voltage range . The time before this issue did you notice any unusual issues ? Or did it just all of a sudden do this ?


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Would anyone one, or more, of those issues cause what I was initially experiencing with the radio, then ABS light and electronic throttle control light coming on, then the truck entering into limp-home mode?
Yes. AC ripple could also explain some of the issues.

In any event, check voltage at the battery with it running. If it's low, check it at the post at the alternator. If it's still low check the signal to turn on. If that's good, check the number three pin I think it is, that's the feed for it. If that's good, replace the alternator.

Does the battery light come on with the key?

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If the alt is bad, you likely have some voltage drop somewhere. That's the number one reason these trucks go through alternators like they do. Seen it many times.

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A bad battery can certainly cause alternator failures. IMO new doesn't necessarily mean good.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Low voltage causes all kinds of weird issues . It’s designed for use in a 12.6 to 14.5 voltage range . The time before this issue did you notice any unusual issues ? Or did it just all of a sudden do this ?


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Over the past few years there have been a few intermittent (like 2-3 times per year) incidents where the truck is started and everything starts up fine, but the electronic climate control dash doesn't come on and you get no heat/AC/fan. Usually if you turn the truck off, then restart it, it fixes the problem. But that specific issue hasn't happened in probably 6+ months. The stuff that happened today just suddenly happened after starting the truck (had gone to the gym, so it was driven there with no issues and only sat for about an hour).
 

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I replaced my Alternator on my 05 Xcursion and noticed I was still getting low voltage and a few electrical issues. So I exchanged the Alternator and bought 2 Duracell AGMs and was still getting low voltage. I replaced the Alternator a 3rd time and after a year I have no issues. Upon the 3rd Alternator exchange company who built it tested it and claimed it had a Bad/Wrong Regulator on it. I bought from that shop per a friends recommendation won’t do that again. Lesson learned “do your homework”
 

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Discussion Starter #20
UPDATE - I replaced the in-line fuse#but it didn't change anything. Batteries had discharged some after sitting for a week and were down to around 9 volts#so I charged them up to 12.5 volts, but truck wouldn't start. With the key in on the On position all the instrument panel lights flicker and I hear a clicking noise. Trying to turn it over it just makes a rapid clicking noise (heard around 22 seconds in the video linked below.


Any ideas what might be causing this and where to start looking?
 
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