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Discussion Starter #1
To start with, thank you for all the information! I have read and read pages and pages of posts, and appreciate the cumulative knowledge. With that said, before I post my 'issue' I want to let everyone know that when I get it fixed, I will come back and post the results so that it can help someone else. There is not much more annoying than looking at suggestions of solutions and then going to the n'th page only to find there was no conclusion.

Ok, get some popcorn, :popcorn: here goes:

2007 6.0L Econoline 14 passenge minibus. I bought it from a transportation company for my large family(caravans weren't cutting it!). It was Ford dealer serviced, I was the third owner(the first only very low km before selling). I bought it at just over 300k. I have the service history. We only drove it for about 2k/3k before there as trouble. After a rigorous day of driving we blew the EGR cooler. White 'sweet' smoke (lots of it). Turned off the engine had it towed home. Ouch, towing expenses on a minibus!

I mulled over various approaches to getting it "fixed".

- Factory EGR Cooler
- Factory EGR Cooler + Oil Cooler
- Bulletproof EGR Cooler
- EGR Delete (not illegal where I live)
--Bypass delete, partial delete, software delete(wouldn't help the leak)

--------------------

This is where you may start to groan.... In my defense, I had never worked with a HEUI system, I didn't even know what it was. Steep learning curve. I had had multiple small VW engines over the years and never even considered that oil could be used in this way.

--------Part A-----------

I went with the partial delete, replaced the egr valve with a plug, and plugged and sealed the exhaust inlet. This effectively, as far as I know, negated the leaky egr cooler, and prevented rad fluid from entering the intake manifold or exhaust.

For better or worse, this was my logic:

- I didn't know if there was head gasket damage. Did the rad fluid come from a gasket or the egr? I would know soon enough when I refilled the engine.
- It's an econoline. Have you seen what it takes to get the intake manifold out without lifting the whole cab(not to mention heads)?
- This isn't a 2019!
- If the engine was toast(some people have had bent connecting rods after EGR cooler failures) did I want to sink $350+ into an egr cooler that would probably not be returnable?

I knew:
- The oil cooler could be plugged. Perhaps that's why my EGR cooler failed.
- There was no rad in the oil(it sinks right? , I drained some oil out to see)
- The engine would start. I turned it off immediately(dumb, possibly)

Results:
After an oil and filter change(Rotella T4<<<<----Did this cause my trouble), I started it up.
Everything seemed fine! There was some smoke when the exhaust heated up. I did a test drive up a steep hill and the smoke went away! It started and stopped normally. Checked fluids, all ok. As a family we drove it to an outing and then home again. About 40km round trip. I turned off the engine that evening no issue. The next morning it wouldn't start.

---------Part B-----------
At present, there is no injector clatter. Nothing. During a KOEO injector test, there are no errors, but no noise. All you can hear is the low pressure inline fuel pump spinning up.

Here is what I have done so far:
- Two new batteries
- $700 brand new stock FORD FICM.
- Checked, and in some cases replaced or added ground straps
- Checked for fuel in the bowl(there is, fills right up again)
- Checked FICM fuses and relays
- Got ahold of a code reader that would work with FORScan

IPR(%)
65.23 - 51.95(and holds)

ICP(PSI)
2139.79 - 1636.72(and holds)


ICP(Volt)
2.42 - 1.94(and holds)

RPM(rev/min)
121 - 117

FICMSYNC
Yes

FICM_LPWR(Volt)
9.52

FICM_MPWR(Volt)
48.46 - 48.5

FICM_VPWR(Volt)
9.57 - slowly drops as I crank

SYNC
Yes

FUELPW(ms)
2.11 - 3.14(and holds)


Notes:
- Once, there was injector clatter that started slow and got faster. I didn't try to start because I had the rad fluid out to get a the ECM and FICM(remember econoline, FICM under Air Box, Fuses on Passenger side, front). The next day, no clatter, I changed nothing.
- It's a minibus. There are some mystery relays(see above steering column in gallery) and a Girdardin fuse and relay center that goes to the bus lighting etc. by the kick panel by the bus entrance. There is a rollover reset switch, but it doesn't seem to be tripped.

Questions:
- How would the bus behave if the rollover switch WAS tripped?
- Would T4 have caused/contributed to simultaneous stiction in 8 injectors(if that's what's wrong)?
- Is there another 'kill' system on these rigs that would be causing this issue?
- Would 'part A' have damaged something to cause 'part B' issues?
- If it IS stiction, could I use something like WD40 to get it started, add some stiction cleaner, then change the oil out again?
- What do you think of those ForSCAN numbers?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Anyone :nerd:?

Just to summarize:
no start, no injector clatter, new FICM, stats listed above. Ran without issue but wouldn't start the next morning.

The rest is backstory.
 

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Ask this question in tech info no one will likely see it here. So, you started it once after the tow? I am a bit lost in your explanation of everything.
 

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Welcome to the nation from WNC,

You IPR numbers are quite high, not sure if that is normal for a cranking engine or not, definitely not for a runnin engine. I'm thinkin you have a high pressure oil leak with that high of a reading, but symptoms sound more like an electrical issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ask this question in tech info no one will likely see it here. So, you started it once after the tow? I am a bit lost in your explanation of everything.
Yes, started it after the tow, turned off immediately. Did EGR delete, started and drove 40 km, turned off, then wouldn't start again.
 
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