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Hello everyone, im new here to PSN and im joining to share my experiences and get some help with my recent purchase of a 1996 f-350 crew cab PSD. this particular truck i just bought was my buddys he bought brand new back in 99 with 4000 miles on it. it now has 550,000 miles on it. he is not known to take care of bodys very well but he always was strick about taking care of it mechanically. with 550,000 it has almost no blow by. my plan for the truck is to rebuild it from the ground up and make it a king ranch tribute truck. (always loved the king ranches) i have already done alot of research and have a huge parts list and great ideas for it. long story short im going with a sky mfg reverse shackle w/sd springs at 4in, all body parts are being replace except cab, changing from 4.10 to 3.73 ring and pinion, putting a torson carrier in the rear ford sterling and a e-locker in the front D60 (not going off roading much but i live in florida and it dont take much to get stuck in sand or mud in the pasture and ive learned my torson in my 1500 chevy has been a life saver), the motor is being replaced with a ccp long block blueprint 7.3 headstudded, im putting stage 2 dynomite 160cc 40% injectors, adrenaline HPOP, Driven diesel fuel system, TS Performance 6 Pos switch, banks power pack turbo system w/intercooler (i want to turn this truck up a bit to close to where the new trucks are and make about 400hp-450hp nothing crazy just mostly for when im towing), im puting Grand rock power flow dual curved 5in matte black stacks on it, im replacing all the body bushings, switching to mishimoto trans inter-cooler for a 6.0 and and a mishimoto radiator, orignally it had an E4OD trans that got stolen when the truck was parked at his buddy house so im gonna try to cram a ZF6 behind it with a new process 271 transfer case, (i prefer a manual when towing plus the ZF6 is alot more HD than the E4OD especially since im turning the motor up), im getting it painted the King Ranch Brown and Gold metallic, im also putting the original 16in aluminum SWB wheels back on it and gonna run 33in Ironman M/T tires unless it looks like too small of a tire then i will go with a 35in ( ive had great experience with these on road. they do get noisy but they have always been a smooth ride on my chevy), im going to repaint all the interior plastic with the same color code brown paint and put 2016 king ranch seats inside it, im gonna be doing alot of my own personal custom home made interior designing with lots of wood trim. there might be some things i missed or forgot to mention but the goal is to have a relatively stock looking truck on the outside with a decked out interior and a motor tuned up to be close to the power of the new trucks. this truck i plan on making me last the next 30 years if i can. if yall have any questions for me please ask away ;) i have a pretty good idea where im going with it and know how to do most of it myself but i do have a few questions regarding the build that i will post in the other thread pages. other than that im happy to meet you all and i thank you all before hand for having me on your fourm. hope people enjoy following my build. btw i have a youtube channel that i will be posting videos on of my progress as it comes. my youtube channel is CowboyNation1977. im uploading the first video on the truck today but it pretty much explains everything i just mentioned on this fourm but feel free to check the channel out and please subscribe and hit the notification bell to know when i make new updates. thank you
 

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Welcome to the nation from WNC
 
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Cowboy,

Welcome to the Nation... one thought for you as you are thinking about a ZF6 speed. That box has a pretty deep overdrive gear. As it looks like you wish to do some towing with the truck you may want to consider sticking with the 4.10 with the 35 inches tires.

Cj
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Cowboy,

Welcome to the Nation... one thought for you as you are thinking about a ZF6 speed. That box has a pretty deep overdrive gear. As it looks like you wish to do some towing with the truck you may want to consider sticking with the 4.10 with the 35 inches tires.

Cj
why do you say that? when ive done my reasearch with the gear ratios it doesnt come out too bad. i will do some towing but it mostly will be once a month and about 10,000-15,000lbs. the only reason i figured 3.73 was for better highway mpg unloaded.
 

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Cowboy,

Unfortunately, pictures on this site are a bugger.. I'm not able to read your thumbnail. Is that a web calculator? Looks pretty slick. One way to get around the link thing... type it in like powerstrokenation-dot-com. My recommendation is based on a towing speed of 65 MPH keeping the engine speed above 1800 rpm. Perhaps with your planned upgrades it won't be an issue. My truck is stock motor-wise so towing with 35 inch tires (I have 32 inch tires) would lug the engine (I have 3.55s) in 6th gear. The fuel mapping does not seem to allow for much turbo spool up at that rpm (trying to keep smoke down?). Playing with a spread sheet:
3.73, 35 inch tires, [email protected] rpm in 6th gear
3.73, 35 inch tires, [email protected] rpm in 5th gear

4.10, 35 inch tires, [email protected] rpm in 6th gear
4.10, 35 inch tires, [email protected] rpm in 5th gear

I guess it depends on whether on not you want to tow in 6th gear. But then I may be up in the night. Best of Luck. I'll be interested to see how everything shakes out on your truck.

Cj
 

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I have 4.10s on 35s and tow about 13,000, and I actually want to go to 4.30s. I would definitely not want to go to a taller gearset.
 

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I've got 3.73 in my 02 and hate it. I want 4.10 and it will tow much better. But I am on 235/85 R16
 
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Cowboy,

Unfortunately, pictures on this site are a bugger.. I'm not able to read your thumbnail. Is that a web calculator? Looks pretty slick. One way to get around the link thing... type it in like powerstrokenation-dot-com. My recommendation is based on a towing speed of 65 MPH keeping the engine speed above 1800 rpm. Perhaps with your planned upgrades it won't be an issue. My truck is stock motor-wise so towing with 35 inch tires (I have 32 inch tires) would lug the engine (I have 3.55s) in 6th gear. The fuel mapping does not seem to allow for much turbo spool up at that rpm (trying to keep smoke down?). Playing with a spread sheet:
3.73, 35 inch tires, [email protected] rpm in 6th gear
3.73, 35 inch tires, [email protected] rpm in 5th gear

4.10, 35 inch tires, [email protected] rpm in 6th gear
4.10, 35 inch tires, [email protected] rpm in 5th gear

I guess it depends on whether on not you want to tow in 6th gear. But then I may be up in the night. Best of Luck. I'll be interested to see how everything shakes out on your truck.

Cj
yes this is a calculator i used its pretty nifty. it is usually used to calculate how to set up shift points for a auto but i used it to find out my gear ratios and speeds relative to rpm and gear. i also used another website to determine my actual ration late the other night but now looking over it again i think i see what yall mean. i know the pics dont look too good but it lays out something like this.

The Diesel ZF6
Low: 5.79:1
1st: 3.30:1
2nd: 2.10:1
3rd: 1.31:1
4th: 1:1
OD: 0.72:1
@2000RPM here is my speeds relitive to gear with 3.73 ratio
Low: 10mph
1st: 17mph
2nd: 27mph
3rd: 43mph
4th: 56mph
OD: 78mph

With a 3.73 ring and pinion and 35in tires my actual ratio is 3.41 the recommended ratio for the ring and pinion is a 4.08.

my inputs into the calc at the time were:
New tire dia 35in
Old tire dia 32 (original tire size ive read from forums)
Current gear ratio 3.73

this gives me an actual ratio of 3.41.
my recommended to keep it stock would be a 4.08 ring and pinion.
if i wanted a higher ratio they say 3.71 ring and pinion.
if i want a lower ratio they recommend 4.45

this is where i got my idea of keeping the 3.73 ring and pinion.
i wanted my highway speeds up unloaded.
i dont mind only going 60-65mph when loaded (i think its safer anyways) and didnt think i would use OD cause you dont use that anyways in an auto loaded.
plus i didnt think i would lug out much since i planned on turning up the motor to over twice what it came from the factory and as far as i knew (i could be wrong) i was pretty sure the new diesels were 3.73 ring and pinion with the option for 4.11 if you did alot of towing.

please lmk if my logic is wrong and im missing something. im always open to learning. and again thank you all for your comments and help.
 

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Cowboy,

You have had me thinking about your build (and I don't wish to dissuade you in your plans - just more food for thought)... I'm by no means an expert on the 7.3 - there are fellows here at PSN that are far more knowledgeable than I. The 7.3 in the 96 Fords was rated at a nominal 425 ft-lbs of torque. To get closer to a modern Ford and double your torque to let say 800 ft-lbs will, I think, considerably shorten the life of your motor. I have read several posts here on PSN stating that the 7.3 won't get you anywhere fast, but it will run all day long and not let you down. I see a couple of places that you may be pushing the limits of the drivetrain. The 7.3 is a great motor no doubt about it, but it is several generations behind. The new 6.7 engine uses a compacted graphite iron block and 6 bolt mains (2 of which go though the skirt) compared to our cast iron block with 4 bolt mains. The ZF6 speed is rated to around 530 ft-lbs of torque (ZF S6-650, S6-750 Transmission Specs & Ratios). Though, I have read that the "650" in the ZF6 part number is the nominal input torque for the transmission. International’s version of the 7.3 was rated to 620 ft-lb whereas Ford maxed out at 525 ft-lbs to possibly protect it from us end users (7.3L Power Stroke Diesel Specs & Info and International T444E Specs & Info). Sorry - you probably know all this (what can I say - I like to hear myself talk :grin:). My own experience in my 97 with a ZF5 and a 3.55 rear end towing a 15000# load through Wyoming is that the shifts were too deep trying to move load over the hills (granted my truck at that point was completely stock and I have since swapped out the ZF5 for a road ranger 10 speed). I really had to rev the motor before the next shift in order to keep the engine in its power band for the next gear down. The ZF6 speed would have been a little better, but I would imagine that it will like higher rpms to keep the load moving down the road. Now with power upgrades it will be easier. Personally, I think a tune similar to the 620 ft-lb International version would be best (perhaps with a slightly higher rpm limit). I'm considering swapping over to 3.73s (maybe I can talk Heavydoc out of his for cheap) as it would only raise my cruising rpms by 100 or so. I'll be following your posts closely as I'm considering similar future upgrades to my truck. My thoughts have been intercooler, 160/30 or 180/30 injectors, better HPOP, hydra chip, and possibly finding a Dana 80 for the rearend.

Cj
 

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I apreciate your food for thought and definitely has me thinking more on this. And i apreciate it ill definitely keep everyone updated on the truck. Not really trying to go fast or make a winning 1/4 mile. Just trying to be a bit better than stock. Mostly in towing but also in highway. Like this 6 pos switch. Ill prob run the mid tune or 60 more hp most of the time unless im loaded. Your comment has definitely got me thinking. Ill lyk what comes of all this brewing with another reply.
 

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Btw this is the general recipe i have found and was following to get my power. This seems close to what everyone has been saying. I would post the screenshot but pics suck?.
400-450hp: 180cc to 205cc injectors with 80 percent or 100 percent larger nozzles
Custom tuning via TS Performance six-position chip or Hydra chip
Drop in turbo (Dominator 66 on ’94.5-‘97, GTP38R on ’99-‘03) or T4 mount
Electric fuel system (required on ’94.5-’97 trucks, Walbro drop-in pump on ’99-’03 trucks)
Regulated return fuel system
Valve body and triple disc torque converter
 

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Btw this is the general recipe i have found and was following to get my power. This seems close to what everyone has been saying. I would post the screenshot but pics suck?.
400-450hp: 180cc to 205cc injectors with 80 percent or 100 percent larger nozzles
Custom tuning via TS Performance six-position chip or Hydra chip
Drop in turbo (Dominator 66 on ’94.5-‘97, GTP38R on ’99-‘03) or T4 mount
Electric fuel system (required on ’94.5-’97 trucks, Walbro drop-in pump on ’99-’03 trucks)
Regulated return fuel system
Valve body and triple disc torque converter
A couple things I would like to note about your list. Now this is just me, others will have their input as well, im sure.

180-205cc injectors I think are a waste, after talking with dozens of people with them, and 160cc inj, and 238cc inj, including tuners, and injector manufactures, it seems that if you arent going with a mild "bump" (ie the 160cc injector), then you need to just step up to a 238c/80% combo. Hundreds, if not thousands of people have done this, and still tow well with a good turbo setup. Again, just my opinion. I plan on going to a 238cc or 250cc and still tow my 13,000lbs trailer.

Hydra chip hands down. Theyre not that different in price, and you can load tunes yourself instead of shipping them to someone to do it for you. Not to mention the 15 positions instead of 6.

The drop in turbo has been talked about lately, see Turbo Options thread and we eventually came to the conclusion that if you already have everything that comes in a T4 kit (ie, intercooler piping, bellowed up pipes etc) then to go with a KC drop in turbo. the D66 and 38R are old news now and they've been problematic in the past (ie, smokey, hard to get lit)

Everything else you have is good. A homebrew E-Fuel kit can be relatively cheap, and with a stock 99-03 pump, can support quite a bit of power with some very good reliability. See My E-fuel build thread and how I did mine.
 

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Update: it looks like im buying a blueprinted and headstuded ccp long block. I also have another question. I want to 05 superduty axle swap but the RYD buckets looks weak on the bolt. There is only 4 little bolts that hold the bucket on. Please let me know what yall think about the RYD setup strength and reliability wise.
 

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If you're worried, bolt it on and then weld it to the frame.

I personally would not just bolt it on...
 

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If you're worried, bolt it on and then weld it to the frame.

I personally would not just bolt it on...
Thats what i was thinking. I was just conserned about weling to the frame in case for some weird reason i had to remove them. But id say 60,000lbs tensel strength welding rods should do the trick.
 

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A couple things I would like to note about your list. Now this is just me, others will have their input as well, im sure.

180-205cc injectors I think are a waste, after talking with dozens of people with them, and 160cc inj, and 238cc inj, including tuners, and injector manufactures, it seems that if you arent going with a mild "bump" (ie the 160cc injector), then you need to just step up to a 238c/80% combo. Hundreds, if not thousands of people have done this, and still tow well with a good turbo setup. Again, just my opinion. I plan on going to a 238cc or 250cc and still tow my 13,000lbs trailer.

Hydra chip hands down. Theyre not that different in price, and you can load tunes yourself instead of shipping them to someone to do it for you. Not to mention the 15 positions instead of 6.

The drop in turbo has been talked about lately, see Turbo Options thread and we eventually came to the conclusion that if you already have everything that comes in a T4 kit (ie, intercooler piping, bellowed up pipes etc) then to go with a KC drop in turbo. the D66 and 38R are old news now and they've been problematic in the past (ie, smokey, hard to get lit)

Everything else you have is good. A homebrew E-Fuel kit can be relatively cheap, and with a stock 99-03 pump, can support quite a bit of power with some very good reliability. See My E-fuel build thread and how I did mine.
I believe imma take your advice on the injectors. It makes sense. But tbh my knowlage on turbos is quite slim. Its prob the only thing i dont know much about on this truck. Do you have a recommendation to a t4 turbo kit w/turbo? Links? Also this truck has none of the intercooler pipes or anything else. Just a 3.5in turbo back down pipe. Will a banks intercooler setup be a good choice?
 

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I believe imma take your advice on the injectors. It makes sense. But tbh my knowlage on turbos is quite slim. Its prob the only thing i dont know much about on this truck. Do you have a recommendation to a t4 turbo kit w/turbo? Links? Also this truck has none of the intercooler pipes or anything else. Just a 3.5in turbo back down pipe. Will a banks intercooler setup be a good choice?
CSD https://www.carsonstaufferdiesel.com/collections/turbo-1994-1997-7-3l/products/t4-turbo-kitand Irate Diesel are the first 2 that come to mind for me. A sxe366 or sxe364.5 would be good for 238/80s. Do some research on what other people run with those injectors, or call a few vendors (ie, CSD, Swamps, Irate, etc) and they will point you in the right direction.
 
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