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Discussion Starter #1
So my truck pukes coolant with studs no egr valve and a blocker plate. It runs good and there are no drips or leaks underneath it. Is it possible that my gaskets are blown?
 

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Oil anyone?
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Yep, did you have the heads re-decked when you did the stud install?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well hell... so where to go from here? Anyone knows what it costs to machine them?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What do i need to do for the oil cooler? If theres more than a 15* difference then its the oil cooler?
 

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I agree with Brentos, I'd check the oil cooler before I made the leap straight to headgaskets.
 

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Pulling sled for hire
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Depending on how warped the heads are, it could be a little more pricey. Mine were warped enough that after milling they had to do a valve job and recess them into the head to keep them from hitting the pistons. That pushed the price up a few hundred IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oil and coolant temps are perfect... so heads then. Anything special i should go with for gaskets? Is there any chance my heads dont need machining?
 

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Pulling sled for hire
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Is there any chance my heads dont need machining?
No...just because if they were flat and sealing good, just putting the studs in should have kept them from blowing.
 

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If you put your headstuds in 1 at a time instead of pulling the heads, one of the headgaskets could have lost it's seal. The only way to know is to pull and check the heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ya... because it doesnt really run any different and its had 5 or 6k on the clock since this started. Pulling racing and daily driving so that gives me some hope haha
 

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Damnkids Motorsports
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Well if you have to pull the heads to do the gaskets, then definitely get the heads machined either way. Dont go over .010". That's the absolute MAX from what I understand. If you have to machine them so far that the valves have to be sunk farther into the head, I'd trash em and get new heads.
 
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