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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I talked to Bean last week. I am trying to get an idea of others experience as well. As I understand it around 450-480hp is where head studs are needed. I am going to limit my turbo to under 40psi for competition and 33-35psi the rest of the time to help make it last, it is Beans D66.

When I do put in head studs, can I do it with the engine in the truck? Or do I have to pull the engine or cab?

When the head gasket blows, is there any other damage that usually occures? What was your carnage? Or was it just the head gasket. I am trying to prepare myself for the next thing.


Keep Strokin',
Howard
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I do put in head studs, can I do it with the engine in the truck? Or do I have to pull the engine or cab?

What head gaskets are best to use?

Thanks,
 

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Laces Out
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lift the cab..its too easy ....get studs in it now...dont risk it...and use the H-11 studs from ***.
 

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The ARP's(DI version)work well if installed correctly.
Elmo makes mucho power with them on stock head gaskets.
They also seem to be much more detonation proof than the H-11's as well.
Anyone at DPC that knows anything can vouch that they withstood some serious abuse.
I have seen H-11's let loose at a lot less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just out of curiosity has anyone ever tried raising the transmission up in the truck like you do on a Dmax to get the drivers rear studs in?
The rear one must have an angle of attack issue(or the angle of the dangle). Is it to get the stud in or the head over the stud? What about lifting the engine off the mount, taking the mount off and lowering the block to the frame? I don't know, just throwing ideas around.
 

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It's a pain in the rear, but ya you can get them in while the engine is still in the truck. I used stock headgaskets, heads were never off.
ive never heard of this. Is this what you mean......you take a head bolt out and then replace a stud/nut one of a time ? Then do the rest one of a time until all done?


is this ok to do?
 

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Detuned
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Thats what I'm thinking also. Lowering the motor has got to give ya at least 2 inches. Ben
 

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ive never heard of this. Is this what you mean......you take a head bolt out and then replace a stud/nut one of a time ? Then do the rest one of a time until all done?


is this ok to do?
Ya thats what thay do and it seems to work just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: Head stud questions

The ARP's(DI version)work well if installed correctly.
Elmo makes mucho power with them on stock head gaskets.
They also seem to be much more detonation proof than the H-11's as well.
Anyone at DPC that knows anything can vouch that they withstood some serious abuse.
I have seen H-11's let loose at a lot less.
What is the difference between your ARP's and ARP #4201? And what do you mean by "installed correctly"?


Thanks,
 

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Laces Out
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coming from the guy that a couplemonths ago said arp's are junk , all hail the A-1 studs, now changing his mind.....hmm....arp still uses the same material as before. i would go h-11
 

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ive never heard of this. Is this what you mean......you take a head bolt out and then replace a stud/nut one of a time ? Then do the rest one of a time until all done?


is this ok to do?
Yup, that's how we did mine. 2 guys, 10 hours. We lifted the body one side at a time.

Ben, your right. Lowering the engine should get you the room you need. I think KicknY2K did his that way.
 
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