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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the guy im thinking about having rebuild my motor said he strongly recommends i have it balanced before its reasembled with new bearings and rings but the balance work will be $1500+ does this sound right for a 7.3? the machine shop says every ford 7.3 and 6.0 asembly hes balanced has been way out..

im thinking about having him take a forged rod 97 block and doing

balance the rotating assembly
heat treat the rods
new coated bearings
hone the block
.10 over rings
freshen the heads up
head studs
comp 910 springs
pushrods
 

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i would for sure get it balanced but 1500 for just balanceing seems a really high i paid 850 for balance,magnafluxing the block,boreing and checking the line bore then an extra 175 to have it line bored and that was at empire
 

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$1500.00 is totally outrageous unless the crank needs tons of Mallory.
 

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PSN Pretender
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I think that price was for the short block machine work and assembly.

Defiantly have it balanced, worth the money for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
what would be a reasonable price for everything listed with the core engine being $700?
 

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If you don't balance it, don't build it. Just my $.02
$1500 for balance alone is out of line. You sure that didn't include the short block work as well?
 

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your mom
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to balance my 6.0 it was 300 thats it
 

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Dumb question but I'm asking anyway. What's involved in balancing the motor a what affect will it have not being balanced?
 

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Why not just buy a low mileage short block and run the piss out of it?
 

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Dumb question but I'm asking anyway. What's involved in balancing the motor a what affect will it have not being balanced?
They go thru and weigh every thing and make sure it all weighs the same rods and such. Than they spin balance the crank kinda like yo tires and make sure it runs true. They do this with the entire rotating assembaly it gretly cuts back on vibration and any inconsitancies from the factory. A well balced rotating assembaly will put less stress on parts thus making the engine more reliable in the higher RPM and HP ranges.
 

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They go thru and weigh every thing and make sure it all weighs the same rods and such. Than they spin balance the crank kinda like yo tires and make sure it runs true. They do this with the entire rotating assembaly it gretly cuts back on vibration and any inconsitancies from the factory. A well balced rotating assembaly will put less stress on parts thus making the engine more reliable in the higher RPM and HP ranges.
Interesting, thanks for the explaination.
 

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Village Idiot
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better yes
but for a sub 400 hp turning less then 3200 rpm it is not near the big of a deal..

now if your looking to build it more , and that price covers some assembly.
maybe...but see what kind of labor that covers, and make sure they are balancing both ends of the rod, which i am sure they are, but ya never know.
 

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A few grams is pretty intense at even 2000RPM... Ruination? Probably not. Decrease in potential life? I'd say so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok so im getting it fully internally ballanced , everything checked, rods tested for strait , cryoed and heat treated , .20 over mahle pistons, arp main and head studs, coated bearings, dual valve springs, hardened pushrods, stage 1 gearhead cam, fully ported heads, 250/100 injectors, gt42r turbo, modded term 17*, itp RR with dual SD pumps should be good for around 600hp :D

btw about $6000 for the long block done. i dont think thats too bad
 

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All that work and no girdle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
oh forgot about you cota i think im gonna pick that up from you and my engine builder might want one too.. can you send me pics?
 
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