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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I need some help here as I cannot get this truck figured out. It's a 96 F250 with a TS6 chip, Full Force Diesel 350HP injectors, wicked wheel, intake and exhaust. 196K miles.

Ever since I bought this truck it has been very hard to start when the motor is at ambient temperature, easier in the warm weather but still not starting like it should. Now with it being in the mid 50's I have to crank it five times for about 10 seconds each time and use the throttle to get it to start. If I shut it off hot and start it back up ten minutes later it will romp 5-6 times then smooth out. It does not idle smooth like other 7.3's do though, you can hear and feel that it is idling rougher than it should. I have white smoke coming out of the exhaust at all times, a lot when the motor is cold. It also feels like it is low on power in the lower RPM's, feels good though after 1500 RPM or so. The following parts have been replaced:

Full Force Diesel 350HP injectors
Motorcraft GP's
White Rogers GPR
Motorcraft IPR
Motorcraft ICP
Fuel Filter
Fuel screen cleaned

A friend of mine has a Snap On scan tool that I can use to take readings and try to diagnose this. If you guys could tell me what tests need performed I will gladly report back with the results. This truck has always started rough but the low power and white smoke just started happening in the last few weeks. Please help as I'm about to pull this behind the barn and burn it.
 

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See if theres any codes. Start there. Do a buzz test cold. Do a contribution test warmed up. Check you icp reading. Id start with a buzz test. Did you completely drain the fuel bowl when you did the filter
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I did scan it yesterday and had codes for the EBP sensor and the CPS. Those codes could of been 10 years old though for all I know. It does have a new Motorcraft CPS so I would like to think that isn't it. He cleared the codes so I will be able to see if they come back when I hook it back up next week.

A cold buzz test isn't an immediate option due to me having to drive there, I can arrange for that to be possible though. Can I do a warm buzz test in the meantime to verify anything?

I will do a contribution test, what parameters do I look for?

I will do an ICP reading, what parameters do I look for? It does have a new Motorcraft ICP.

Yes I completely drained the fuel bowl and cleaned it out when I removed it to change the IPR.

Any other thoughts or info is greatly appreciated.
 

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Did you cover up the supply and return lines when you removed the fuel bowl.? Or did you not remove it. Check your ebpv on turbo outlet and make sure the valve isnt stuck half closed. Its on passenger sid below the downpipe on turbo. Turned toward the passenger side is open. Icp shouldnt be below 400 at idle and get the numbers on duty cylce.
 

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The contibution test is pass or fail.and will tell you what cylinder. The buzz test warm could possibly verify if its totally broken wire somewhere. When the wires heat up they could make a better connection. So best to do that cold.
 
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