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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 97 was cold starting with no problems this fall but now it is taking several cranks to get it to light. Usually it will almost catch on the first crank. When I continue to turn it over, white smoke comes out the exhaust. It also spews white smoke when it starts going. It doesn't run rough once it starts. I was going to ohm test the glow plugs and see if jumping the GPR would help out. Is there anything else that could be the culprit?
 

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Old guy from the old days
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Start when the engine is cold by using a set of jumper cables (well, one cable actually) to jump from one big to the other big terminal on the glowplug relay for 60 seconds (it will probably arc a bit so be prepared for that). Disconnect after 60 seconds and try starting. If it starts like it should you have (most likely) a failed glow plug relay or what controls the relay is at fault. If you will send me an email at [email protected] with GLOW PLUG INFORMATION in the subject line, let me know what site you saw this on and where to email I will reply with three attachments - a write-up I did several years on the glow plug relay testing and operation, a write-up by another gentleman who went by Carpentractor back in the day on the glow plug system and glow plug replacement and information on parts to repair the wiring harnesses that plug into the valve cover gaskets from the outside.

Dave / Believer45
 

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I would check the GPR... Also you could ohm out the glow plug pins at the uvcg... They are the outside pins for each plug.
 

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Old guy from the old days
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I completely forgot - two of the attachments I send out are available here in the LIBRARY section, link HERE for anyone who needs the information.
 

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I completely forgot - two of the attachments I send out are available here in the LIBRARY section, link HERE for anyone who needs the information.
Great writeup....thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm having better luck now that I'm leaving the key on for more time after the WTS light goes off. May be just masking the problem, we'll see.
 

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One Stroke @ a Time
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Sounds like you have a few bad glow plugs. Please take into consideration that the WTS light isn't directly connected to the glow plugs. The computer considers air temp and eng temp and gives a "best case" of how long to wait to start and signals the light for that period of time. Even though the light is off the glow plugs can remain on for up to 2 mins after the engine is running to achieve desired results. Good luck!
 

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powerStroker66, I assume you have, but make sure you check all of your battery cables really well! The higher amp draw of the cold weather may be only the symptom, not necessarily the problem. I have seen many of these positive battery cables break down and look exactly like a starter going bad, also check all your grounds and make sure both ends of the cables have a good connection.

Just my $.02 good luck
 

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i think you have a point there, my only argument is that it never started acting like this until i did the injectors, i think all that cranking did some damage to the starter even though i let it cool down between cycles...is there a way to test just the starter without having to pull it and bench test it?
 

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i think you have a point there, my only argument is that it never started acting like this until i did the injectors, i think all that cranking did some damage to the starter even though i let it cool down between cycles...is there a way to test just the starter without having to pull it and bench test it?

Not that I know of. Check and make sure you're getting power to it when you're having the problems.

I do have another idea but it will depend on how you are set up for diagnostic and electrical equipment if you can do it or not.... Do you have good multi meter with an inductive amp clip? I can check the amp draw on my starter when its cranking and tell you what mine is if you have the ability to check yours. If you're drawing much higher amps while its cranking then you are having an internal failure of the motor. Let me know if you have the ability to check yours and we'll go from there.
 

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you can certainly ohm all your connections to see if there's a bad one. It won't tell you the condition of the starter though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
K, I found 2 bad glow plugs, both on the same side thankfully. But the main thing is when I cycle the glow plugs, I'm not reading any voltage on the left post (standing at the front of the truck) of the GPR. There should be voltage transferring from the always hot post to that one for the first minute, so it appears to be completely trashed.

Do you guys have an opinion on buying a napa,kragen,vato zone gpr or a motorcraft one?
 

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ive herd of a stand-core one...i beilive that's the name, but basically its what they use in airplanes, now, it doesn't have traditional style contacts inside so there supposed to last alot longer..maybe do some research see what you can find.
 

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X2 on the Stancor 586-902. If you want to have a cheap interim unit, get a NAPA GPR 109 or a Sorensen MR99 from AutoZone. Order these by these part numbers only, don't tell them the application otherwise they will try to sell you something else (more $$). Either will work OK, but probably not for the long term (Stancor). Cheers!
 
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