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Hanger Lift

4K views 26 replies 17 participants last post by  davey99ps 
#1 ·
Anyone used this to lift their truck? Any opinions?


5" hanger lift
 
#2 ·
I have a 3" Hangar kit from IKON Vehicle Dynamics and am very satisfied with the fit, finish and ride quality. There is no more body roll and the ride quality is still a stock ride because I did not change the spring rate. The spring rate will change for you by using the add-a-leaf which would make for a more stiffer ride.
After I received my kit I went to my local 4x4 shop to set up an appointment for the install and he tried to tell me to return my kit so he could sell me a Skyjacker Lift and I said no way. After he installed my kit he was very satisfied with the stout quality of the hangars and drop brackets and told me it was a nice kit.
With the kit you are looking at I would be concerned with the gauge of steel and the lack of extra steel supports if any. And a better quality of shocks. Those shocks are gonna rust in a few years. I would be concerned with ride quality and not price. I know it is a truck but it still should have a nice ride. Your kit will look nice but will it ride nice. I have been researching this hit since 2000 and i finally made the purchase in 2009. Thy also have a 4.5" hangar kit or a 4" spring kit and up. The shocks that come in this kit are made by Bilstein.
Here is the IKON kit.
http://www.trucktoyzstore.com/realm/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=100&idcategory=110
 
#3 ·
I have seen that lift also but im kinda eying the 3in top gun customz hangar lift rather than the 5in. I would love to hear input on this topic as well
 
#4 ·
hangers are a good, cheap way to lift, but will eventually flatten and weaken your springs. your truck will eventually start to sag again, and then you have to buy springs anyway. so why not just spend the dough and get the springs in the first place? just my opinion.
 
#14 ·
because of the added stress of the hanger pushing down on the spring, in order to hold the weight of the truck up. if you think about it, it makes sense. you wanna go up with your truck right? then you have to push down on the springs with the hanger. it will take time, but they will flatten out. my buddy had them on his truck and the actually went past the point of flat and started to arch the other way or invert. that's not good. by the time he took his 4.5 hangers off his truck was the same height as my sd when it was stock. also hangers will rotate your frontend and change your pinion angle. probably not enough to noticed, but i thought i'd throw that out there. if you wann go 4 inches in the front, just buy some springs, a drop pitman arm, and a trac bar drop bracket. you will have more money in it this way, but it will last. usually if you buy a 4" lift they come with 6" springs in the front and a 4" block or springs in the rear. this way you level the truck after the springs settle. let me know what size tires you want to put on and i'll tell you what to do. i've lift a lot of trucks, jeeps, ect. i have a '94 wrangler on 39.5s, a '91 rockcrawler wrangler on 42s, a '79 bronco competition mudder on 39.5, s-10 on 35s, i know a little bit about lifting vehicles.
so how do you put hangers on the back, unless you do a flip? if you put hangers on it will change pinion angles. i'm not gonna argue that point, cause it is a proven fact. i have had set of springs invert on me with stock springs and just driven on the street. lowering bumstop doesn't do sh** against downward force on a spring from a hanger. you are thinking of limiting straps. they keep the axle from drooping to far and possibly causing damage to driveline and suspension components. thats what rockcrawlers use and i would know that.bumpstops are made to keep your wheel and axle from entering your wheel well. i can also name all these lifts that have 2" higher springs in the front than the back to level the truck out. bds, skyjacker, tuff country, rough country, superlift, pro-comp, fabtech. they must all be junk liftsLOL. lets see some of your lifted stuff!

Hey know it all, think about this...

the spring mounts to the same exact spot in the same exact way, just how ever many inches lower than before. same amount of weight still on them...how is it any different than stock? what would make them flatten out?
 
#5 ·
i did not know that actually. I figured there had to be a downfall of some sort to a hanger lift
 
#6 ·
New springs first. Hangers later. Most every SD has sagged springs as they are at least 6 years old if not older.
Now on to the big question. How big of a tire are you wanting to run? This will determin the best course of action.
 
#7 ·
Prob not going to run much more than a 35", maybe a36".
Why would the spring flatten any more than the stock setup?
 
#9 ·
WrongLOL....hangers are always done in pairs front and rear unless your foolish and get ebay crap. no Pinion or Castor change will happen.

Springs do not care that the hangers are longer as on the street..we lower the bump stops not like rock crawlers. This keeps the spring from be pushed past its limits..like rock crawlers do..

No kit thats quality gives you 6" springs so they can settle...thats nuts

Stock springs will always ride better than ANY lift spring including Icons..which I'm a dealer for. If you don't need the capacity of the rear springs then Icons 5" rears will ride better.

Cary
 
#10 ·
so how do you put hangers on the back, unless you do a flip? if you put hangers on it will change pinion angles. i'm not gonna argue that point, cause it is a proven fact. i have had set of springs invert on me with stock springs and just driven on the street. lowering bumstop doesn't do sh** against downward force on a spring from a hanger. you are thinking of limiting straps. they keep the axle from drooping to far and possibly causing damage to driveline and suspension components. thats what rockcrawlers use and i would know that.bumpstops are made to keep your wheel and axle from entering your wheel well. i can also name all these lifts that have 2" higher springs in the front than the back to level the truck out. bds, skyjacker, tuff country, rough country, superlift, pro-comp, fabtech. they must all be junk liftsLOL. lets see some of your lifted stuff!
 
#12 ·
Fabtech has a full hanger drop for the rear also.
Fabtech
Scroll down and look at the rear spring and hanger system. Also a longer shackle on a front kit will lessen the spring rate (soften) due to the longer shackle creating more leverage. If you have a weak spring a hanger lift MAY make the spring sag more due to the added leverage exerted on the spring.
 
#13 ·
OBSWIZ is the guy that has given me faith that an OBS truck doesn't have to ride like a log wagon. I've ridden in trucks with his recommended setup and have been impressed enough to go buy a truck to install it on. What does that tell you?

I don't know all the details on these drop hanger kits - but if you drop the front and the back of the spring equally then you wont change you pinion angles and you won't add any stress to your springs other than the couple of extra pounds that the brackets add.
 
#15 ·
Food for thought. If you lenghten the shackel you add leverage. The same principal applies to using a longer breaker bar. The longer the bar the easier it is to turn the bolt. This is why hanger kits ride better, It also makes a 6 or 8" spring ride better bt allowing it to have a greater radius and more distance to move
 
#16 ·
Who said put hangers on the back. :pointlaugh: I don't sell those brands..but I do sell Icon, Rize, Pure performance etc..their's a reason. Done.
 
#17 ·
I had to post so I can say that for once I can one-up HRT. I have actually ridden in OBSwiz's ride and its way smoother than any lifted truck I've ridden in. He knows his stuff for sure . TAte
 
#20 ·
I think there is come confusion here. The hanger kit I'm referring moves the front and rear mounting points on the front spring. The ebay ones do only mount hangers on the rear of the spring, changing all of the angles. That will lower spring life. But springs that are mounted by two points stock and you move both those points equally downward, shoudn't effect the life of the spring. The spring has the same weight on it, same pinion angles and flexes in the same motion. I could see moving one of the mounts changing the motion and adding stress, but if you move both equally, shouldn't it work the same giving a stock ride????
 
#22 ·
The longer shackel will not physically change the spring rate. It will allow the spring to flex more due to the longer swing of the shackel. This does change the springs ride quality as it will soften the feel.
 
#23 ·
Well I don't have the pics on obswiz photes but I have seen one bad ass rock crawler he built and the last time I checked his obs rides on 08 coils. And my obs truck rides on his old lift.
 
#24 ·
Cary it sharp on this suspension stuff. He is one of the first guys I would go to for advice on my truck suspension.
 
#25 ·
I would be willing to wager that Cary has cured or otherwise greatly improved the handling, tracking, steering of more Excursions and their abortion of a suspension setup than any one else out there. I know from the forums alone there are literally hundreds of Excursions that his knowledge and direct assistance has fixed their issues. His knowledge turned these wandering boats bouncing and bottoming out going down the road into very well handling, tracking, and smooth riding vehicles. So much so that its rather hard to beleive they are leaf sprung.

The one way a hanger/shackle lift can cause more stress to the springs is from to much increased travel the longer hanger and shackles would now permit. That travel is limited by the use of taller bump stops or spacers which should/would be part of a quality kit such as those by ICON, RIZE as Cary has mentioned.
 
#27 ·
The one way a hanger/shackle lift can cause more stress to the springs is from to much increased travel the longer hanger and shackles would now permit. That travel is limited by the use of taller bump stops or spacers which should/would be part of a quality kit such as those by ICON, RIZE as Cary has mentioned.
Exactly
 
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