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Discussion Starter #1
Hello! This might be my first post on the forums as i've had this account for years i believe. Anyways I recently came to own my mothers 2000 7.3L Lariat 4x4. I've built/rebuilt several gas vehicles such as my srt8 Jeep, LS swapped trucks, and bikes galore, but this is my first diesel build. My father is a soon to be retired Senior Master Ford Mechanic, so i'm hoping to get this build done quick as to get any parts needed to at cost. About the truck: Its got 160K on it, has been sitting for most of its recent life. I'll be stripping down the interior and replacing seat covers/foams and what not as well as removing any rust followed by coating these areas. While i'm doing this i'm just going to do a complete overhaul of the entire truck since i know it was having shifting problems, according to my mother, before it was more or less parked. The truck does start but does run pretty sluggish compared to how it was when she bought it. Could be injector related? Just thinking to myself. My question is what recommendations do you, the 7.3 experts haha, have for me for each of the areas i'm rebuilding. At the end of the day i'm wanting a super reliable truck that i can take on road trips, camping and the occasional towing. I don't need a 10 second diesel, although i would like a tuner to get a little more pep in its step.

A) Engine Rebuild (Seems there's a ford OEM kit for about $1200 on many websites)
B) Fuel System Upgrade?
C) Turbo Upgrade
D) Transmission Rebuilt/Upgrade
E) Differentials
F) Tuning
G) HPOP?
H) Not Rebuild Related but i'm also going to do a 4" lift
I) Fluids

Here's a little breakdown that i've done so far, in which I have links to each in my excel. Keep in mind this is just a first pass at items that will/might be needed.

Seats $618.00
Console Pad $66.95
Driver Seat Foam $98.50
Pass. Seat Foam $97.25
Linex $900.00
engine Oil $85.00
Oil FIlter $9.99
Tranny Fluid $27.99X2
Batteries $199.99 X 2
Full Brake Job $329.00
Differential Fluid $12.99 X 15
Air Intake w/ Filter $299.00
Coolant $16.99X9
Injectors $995.00
ARP Head Studs $338.00
Head Gasket Set $162.00
HPOP $689.00
diff Cover $259.00
Garret Turbo $1,538.00
Exhaust $349.99
4” Lift $1079.00
Wheels $237.00
Tires $200 X4
Ford Overhall Kit $1253.00
Transmission $3100.00
Chip/Tuner $460.00
Hose Clamp Kit 32

Engine Rebuild $4198
Interior $880.70
Lift/Wheels/Tires $2497
Perf Upgrades $2905.99
Fluids $498.73
Paint/Linex $900.00
Tranny (New) $3100
Total: $14980.42

Any advice you have for would be much appreciated!!!

Thanks,
Jerod
 

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First off I would do a compression test first. If it passes I would not rebuild the motor. No need for studs unless you go over 500hp and from your list you won’t. Skip redoing the seats and buy take out seats from a 11+ f250. They are more comfortable and in my opinion look better. As for the trans, talk to same wyse and get a trans cooler from a 6.0 powerstroke. For the injectors send them off to rosewood and have them rebuilt into some 160/30's. Then you will need a chip to run them. I personally would buy the php hydra and then buy some custom tunes. For the turbo get the kc turbos ball bearing turbo. Fuel system I would do the hutch/harpoon mods to the tank and the frx from riff raff. You need gauges so either isspro or autometer. Or get the cts2. You will want egt and trans temp. Then a full turbo back exhaust and a s&b intake. That should be it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First off I would do a compression test first. If it passes I would not rebuild the motor. No need for studs unless you go over 500hp and from your list you won’t. Skip redoing the seats and buy take out seats from a 11+ f250. They are more comfortable and in my opinion look better. As for the trans, talk to same wyse and get a trans cooler from a 6.0 powerstroke. For the injectors send them off to rosewood and have them rebuilt into some 160/30's. Then you will need a chip to run them. I personally would buy the php hydra and then buy some custom tunes. For the turbo get the kc turbos ball bearing turbo. Fuel system I would do the hutch/harpoon mods to the tank and the frx from riff raff. You need gauges so either isspro or autometer. Or get the cts2. You will want egt and trans temp. Then a full turbo back exhaust and a s&b intake. That should be it.
Thank you for your reply!

A) "First off I would do a compression test first. If it passes I would not rebuild the motor. No need for studs unless you go over 500hp and from your list you won’t."
-If the motor passes the compression test fine then I wont touch the internals. Just a question though: How many miles are people typically getting before seeing compression loss in the 7.3?

B)"Skip redoing the seats and buy take out seats from a 11+ f250. They are more comfortable and in my opinion look better."
-Awesome! Is it a direct mount? I agree on the comfort notion on that, they are not very good since its the bench seat with jumpseat setup.

C) "As for the trans, talk to same wyse and get a trans cooler from a 6.0 powerstroke."
-Ok awesome, i'll get my pops to pick one up from work. As far as rebuilding it, powerstroke magic is actually right down the street from me. Would it be worth it to take it there? I'm not sure what services they offer or how respected they are in the 7.3 community.

D)"For the injectors send them off to rosewood and have them rebuilt into some 160/30's. Then you will need a chip to run them."
10-4

E)"I personally would buy the php hydra and then buy some custom tunes."
The PHP Hydra is actually what i have noted so far. It seems gearhead is a good tuner?

F)"For the turbo get the kc turbos ball bearing turbo. "
10-4

G)"Fuel system I would do the hutch/harpoon mods to the tank and the frx from riff raff. You need gauges so either isspro or autometer. Or get the cts2. You will want egt and trans temp."
10-4

H)" Then a full turbo back exhaust and a s&b intake."
10-4

Thank you for all the help! Please see my questions, thank you.
 

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7.3 are not even broken in until 250K+ miles or so they can run forever, one tough SOB of an oil burner
 

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Ford Man
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Hello and welcome to PSN. From your list and SBluke55, sounds like you have literally everything covered. Welcome and post a pic or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks! I'll post some pics here shortly of the before state of the truck.

Just ordered 2010 seats for it, new seatbelts, and new carpet. Let the $$$ spending start haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update, just ordered the following:

PHP Hydra
FRX from Rift Raft
KC 38r Dual Ball Bearing Turbo (.84)
S&B Intake

Getting quotes for Line-X Materials.

Does anyone have any ideas on the best way to remove rust of the frame/metal components w/o having to strip the entire frame down?

Thanks,
Jerod
 

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Nice looking truck. I have never heard of powerstroke magic. 160k miles is nothing, 400k+ if properly maintained. Don’t forget bellowed up pipes and a delete pedestal for the turbo. How bad is the rust? Just surface rust or are you in the rust belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nice looking truck. I have never heard of powerstroke magic. 160k miles is nothing, 400k+ if properly maintained. Don’t forget bellowed up pipes and a delete pedestal for the turbo. How bad is the rust? Just surface rust or are you in the rust belt.
I made sure to get the Delete Option. What exactly is the pedestal delete doing for me?

Just ordered the bellowed up pipes as well.

I'll have to get more pictures, but i remember it being mainly surface rust with some scaling on the frame portion. I'll attach some pictures this week and see what you think about it.

Thanks,
Jerod
 

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It removes a very potential oil leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update:

Parts are slowly starting to tickle in! I've also decided to do the 2015 front end conversion as well as a newer style tailgate. I picked up a 2010 Tailgate off of craigslist for $200 and going to pickup a take-off 2015 front bumper (with Fogs) on Sunday for $300. Does anyone have any experience with the 2015 conversion? I'm handy in the shop, but was curious how well the McNasty Conversion Kit takes care of most of the fab work? Going to be ordering the fenders, headlights, grill, and miscellaneous pieces needed for the front end.

Things still needing to order/send off:
Transmission
Injectors
Body Components for Front End Conversion
Leveling/Lift Kit
Wheels/Tires
4" Exhaust

So far my plan paint wise is to paint the entire truck in pearl white that the new f250's come in. I can get the paint through my pops at the ford stealership. The lines the bed in black and keep all the badging black.

I also found some really sweet badges:
Tailgate Cap Molding:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-2016-Ford-F250-F350-F450-F550-Super-Duty-Black-Top-Tailgate-Cap-Molding-OEM/321797573973?fits=Year:2010|Model:F-250+Super+Duty&epid=1222653125&hash=item4aeca14d55:g:U1EAAOSwUwFZ74Vi

Oval Tailgate Emblem in Black:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Black-Silver-FORD-04-14-F150-Front-Grille-tailgate-Oval-Emblem-Decal-Badge/323109681270?hash=item4b3ad67876

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-OEM-Red-7-3L-POWER-STROKE-International-Fender-Emblems-F-Ford-F250-F350-Black/163138555960?hash=item25fbd0d038:g:c-4AAOSwlzdbQHVy

Black 7.3 Badge:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-MATTE-BLACK-FORD-CUSTOM-7-3-F250-F350-POWERSTROKE-INTERNATIONAL-BADGES-SET/152057780930?hash=item2367599ac2:g:2wwAAOSwstxVd2WO

Decal:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mountain-Camping-Mountain-Graphic-Truck-VR-Car-Automotive-Decal-Vinyl-Sticker/142897652077?hash=item21455d216d:m:mY8KE8q8sZUpH-oHbbQ3ThA&var=441879209732

Seven Three Bed Emblem:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-CUSTOM-MATTE-BLACK-FORD-7-3L-F250-F350-POWERSTROKE-BED-BADGES-EMBLEMS-PAIR/161958024467?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=1&asc=53209&meid=ea81db20709d4e3ab0256b4f8832da80&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=12&mehot=pp&sd=151962424071&itm=161958024467&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Disassembly starts in two weeks!
 

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wowee now that is one way to build a truck, do it all at once.

Good luck and thanks for sharing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thought I would give an update on the build. Took me about 2 months longer than I expected to start since starting a new job, building a new shop, and buying a new house... you could say i've been busy. Always to the nitty gritty.

1) Started off by cutting the bed bolts off of the truck, disconnecting all necessary wires and removing the bed.
2) Gutted the Cab completely to inspect all wiring and get ready for painting/prep.
3) Then continued to remove a majority of the front clip followed by picking the cab off of the truck.
4) Pulled out the driveshaft, fuel tank, transfer case, transmission, front driveshaft.
5) The transmission has been palleted up and waiting for the shipping label to be sent over in order to send it over to Corey as I purchased the Stage 2 Transmission Setup.
6) The last two weeks have been basically tearing down the motor, cleaning it, removing all lines and replacing more or less all o-rings as they are usually dried out. Removed the engine wiring harness and repaired any wiring that mice have chewed on along with replacing all the cloth tape with new cloth tape. Cleaned and changed out all the Oil Cooler O-rings tonight followed by replacing the water pump, thermostat, and thermostat cap. Pulled the heads off and started to clean up the sealing surfaces between the heads and motors. Too some up a lot of work, just replacing anything considered a consumable along with replacing sensors that needing replacing.
7) Going to press on the new AC bearing/wheel here this week along with finish up with the heads/gaskets/ARP Studs.
8) Now is the time that i'll be sending out the injectors to rosewood to be converted over to 160/30's.

Thing I purchased that I planned on buying:
KC38r Turbo and Pedestal Kit
Stage 2 Transmission
PHP hydra with Mount
Bellowed Pipes
Riffraff Fuel Cross Over
RiffRaff Oil Cross Over
S&B Intake
Full Brake Job Kit
Leveling Kit for the Front
New Bilstein Shocks all the way around
Hutch Upgrade
4" Turbo Back Exhaust
Third Brake Light
Glow Plugs for Peace of Mind
Seven Three Emblems that look like the 6.4 style
Seven Three Emblem that looks like the Tailgate Platinum Letters.
Mishimoto Transmission Cooler
LED Taillights
LED Headlights (2016 Style)
LED's for the Headlights
McNasty 2016 Front End Conversion
McNasty Bumper Bracket Kit
New Fuel Pump
New Belt
Like New Interior out of a 2012
Take off Front (w/ fogs) and Rear Bumpers from a 2016
Frame Coat
Wire Brushes, rags, brake clean and other various cleaning products.


Things I purchased that I did not plan on buying:
Coolant Filtration Kit
Fuel Filtration Kit
Tons of O-ring Kits
Replacement Lines
All new heater hoses, fuel tank filler hoses and any others i'm forgetting
New Bed Bolts
ARP Bed Bolts (thought to myself might as well while i'm at it)
OEM Fuel Filter
OEM Fuel Bowl Cap
Various Sensors that looked pretty weathered
Head Gaskets
New Seat Belts as the others were worn pretty badly in the front.
New Upper Console (on the roof) since i broke the tabs removing it.

Things still needing purchasing:
Injector Upgrades
Wheels/tires (going to grab some takeoffs more than likely)
Front Clip excluding the bumper
All materials for painting of the truck
Monitoring Device with Probes, still thinking about what i'm going to do here.
I'm sure there will be more things that pop up.

Questions for you:

1) The biggest issue at hand is the vacuum lines inside the cab were chewed by mice it looks like. Which means i'll have to function test to see where all the white/red/yellow/black lines run to. Theres a little block/manifold that connects them to the AC panel on the dash. Does anyone have a diagram of this? I did some intense google searching and found one like that had some images but nothing concrete.

2) Is it worth tearing apart the HPOP?

3) Any other suggestions you might have?

Thanks!
Jerod
 

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Project Shamu
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This sounds like a kick ass build! It must be very nice to be able to do it all at once, instead of pieces at a time spread over years like most of us on here lol.

:nopics:

1) I dont own a 99-03 so im not sure about the vacuum block, sorry

2) I wouldn't open it yourself, I would buy one from either Terminator (can be purchased through RiffRaff), or one from DieselSite. They are reasonably priced, and will help even stock injectors make a ton more power.

3) I can't think of anything, sounds like you got it all! Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Finally started the 7.3 this weekend! To my surprise it only took 2 minutes of cranking for it to finally turn over haha. After it warmed up some it turned over just fine. See the youtube link below for a short clip.

 
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