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Discussion Starter #1
just bought the truck knowing that it grinds from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. every other gear is fine. now i checked the bushing at the clutch pedal as i searched on here and found the plastic bushing gone. replaced the bushing, the metal bracket and had to replace the master cyl because the eye on the rod was broken also. it has gotten better but i still grind. i changed the fluid to synth atf and no much help. i changed the fluid again to synth MTL and now when the trans is cold it shifts fine with 3rd to 4th a small grind. my question is can i add something so it wont grind? clutch is good. i believe i have the DMF and i do not know the condition of it. also i do not know the condition of the pressure plate.
 

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When you let the clutch pedal out, How soon off the floor does it start to grab and drive????

Sometimes if the bushing is left go to long it can wear the synchronizers out quicker, and that will make them grind to..
 

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yeah, likely the only thing that you will be able to put in it to fix the grinding if its been like that for a while is synchros
 

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Sponge
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powerstroke cowboy said:
Sometimes if the bushing is left go to long it can wear the synchronizers out quicker, and that will make them grind to..
I believe this theory as well. I don't think it is a coincidence that these trucks have a crappy plastic shift linkage bushing and consistently wear out syncros.

I overhauled my zf on my own. It's really nice having one that shifts like new. One transmission doesn't make me an expert, but I learned a bunch in the process. I'm not on here all the time, but drop me a line if you have specific questions that aren't being answered. I might be nearby too, depending on where in PA you live.
 

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I believe this theory as well. I don't think it is a coincidence that these trucks have a crappy plastic shift linkage bushing and consistently wear out syncros.

I overhauled my zf on my own. It's really nice having one that shifts like new. One transmission doesn't make me an expert, but I learned a bunch in the process. I'm not on here all the time, but drop me a line if you have specific questions that aren't being answered. I might be nearby too, depending on where in PA you live.
How hard was it to rebuild. need any special tools?
 

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i agree, my synchros are prob gone. i hope it will last until spring so i dont freeze outside pulling the trans out. how hard is it to do them? thanks Sling. i am in stroudsburg area.
 

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i agree, my synchros are prob gone. i hope it will last until spring so i dont freeze outside pulling the trans out. how hard is it to do them? thanks Sling. i am in stroudsburg area.
I am right around the corner
 

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Sponge
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How hard was it to rebuild. need any special tools?
I'm not going to lie, it was pretty hard. But only because a couple steps in the manual, as far as I can tell, are not possible. Like it says to put a bearing separator in the groove of the shift ring between first and second. Then pull the ring, syncro, and gear off together. With heat and a hydraulic puller, it might be possible, but you will ruin all three parts. So you have to be creative.

As for tools, there is nothing specific to the zf you would need. You do need a press, a few standard pullers including one on a slide hammer, and I got away with a depth mic and a dial indicator with a magnetic base for the necessary measuring. I had to modify a pitman arm puller to get under one bearing. Also, I fought with the sleeve under third gear on and off for days until I realized the replacement is only $18. The proper OTC tools to remove it are about $250 and I'm skeptical they would work. So I carefully ground a groove in it and cracked it with a chisel. Took me about 10 minutes once I figured that out.

So there are some tricks and a part or two that you are better off buying than worrying about removing in one piece. Overall though, the job is bigger, but not really much harder than overhauling an axle.
 
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