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Discussion Starter #1
Well, like all other 6.0 owners...my HG's finally failed (or they could have been bad since I bought the truck 2 months ago). I noticed a little coolant around the coolant cap...checked the pressure with a gauge, and I'm hitting 16psi just cruising around with no load. I guess with 217K miles on the truck, it was bound to happen.

So while I've got the heads off...anything else I should do while I'm in there? I've heard that the 6.4 push rods are something you should really do while you are in there. What about new lifters? I've heard that sometimes they will fail on you...or is that not really an issue?

Here are the things that I've already done to the truck in the last few months since I have owned it.

*EGR Delete
*New oil cooler
*Updated stainless steel screen under oil cooler
*Blue Spring Mod
*Updated SCT fitting
*Updated Dummy Plugs
*Updated Standpipes
*Coolant flush
*Cat EC1 coolant
*Coolant filter
*Cleaned Turbo

Anything else I should do while I'm in there replacing the heads gaskets and installing the ARP studs?

Any tips, trips, or advice would be a huge help. I'm so tires of working on this motor...it seems like it's never ending :surprise:
 

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Pushrods and lifters for sure. I dropped a lifter in mine at less than 190k and am in the build process now. Are you doing the work? Cab on?

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Pushrods and lifters for sure. I dropped a lifter in mine at less than 190k and am in the build process now. Are you doing the work? Cab on?

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Oh yea, make sure you take the heads to a reputable machine shop. I would personally oring them if you plan to run a tune.

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They machince an o ring groove in the head and install and o ring for extra sealing. Usually used on big hp engines.

I personally would use mahle head gaskets. They are identical to oem except sealant color. They can be bought separately from head bolts. Also known as black diamond.

Only way to do all the lifters is to pull rear cover and branch tubes. . Engine comes out for that
 

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Please explain the "O-Ring" process. Unfamiliar to this.

Thanks !!

Dan
An O-ringed head means a#groove is cut onto the head, the whole way around the combustion chamber. #Then a ring is inserted into the groove so that just the rounded edge protrudes from the surface. A#receiver#groove is then milled into the head.#When a pliable material is used, the ring's protrusion pushes the softer copper gasket into the#receiver#groove#cupping the combustion chamber and completely sealing it off.#


This is used to change the geometry of the seal. Instead of two flat surfaces being held together by the bolts, you are actually pushing material beyond the flat sealing surface, cutting the chamber off entirely.#

It has been used in high performance, high compression, high boost gas engines for along time. It's cheap insurance IMO. Others have their own opinions.

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Discussion Starter #7
Will I need to get some new copper crush washers for the fuel fittings that go into the cylinder heads? I'm assuming I'm going to need to take those off before I send the heads to the machine shop...right?
 

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You dont have to but why wouldn't you I guess. You can purchase Mahle/Victor Reinz 6.0 gasket kits for $400ish. All the gaskets, o-rings, and other seals you will need for the whole engine (minus bottom end).

Also, o-ringing your heads for a tune?? Completely ridiculous and a waste of money unless you're gonna push competition level hp.

At those miles I would do lifters too, you can either pull engine and take off rear cover or leave engine in and remove trans and do the same thing.

Up pipes as well if you havent yet. Originals will crack after awhile, not super expensive, couple hundred for mbrp pipes, why not do it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was going to replace all of the roller lifters while I was into the motor that deep.....but now I'm a little confused. I've seen some posts where people say they are hard to get to, and some where people have said that they are impossible to get to because you have to pull the back motor plate off to get to them.

What's the real story on the roller lifters? How hard are they to get to? I would like to replace them...but if there is a risk of dropping them down into the motor while I'm attempting to pull them out with a magnet or some other way...not sure it's worth the risk.
 

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The rear 8 lifters (back 4 on both banks) will not come out unless you remove the branch tubes. In order to do that, you have to remove the rear engine cover. In order for the rear cover to come off, you need to pull the engine or the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Crap..... I didn't want to hear that. Is it worth it to replace the 8 that I can get to? Or just leave them all alone?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If it was my truck, I’d pull the engine and replace them all if I was keeping it for a while.
The problem is that eventually I have to draw the line somewhere. These things are like an endless rabbit hole. If you pull the motor to do the lifters, might as well pull the cam out and change it also. If you pull the cam, you have to pull the crank.....so might as well replace all of the rod and main bearings. If you are in it that far, might as well hone the cylinders and put new rings in.....on and on.

Aren't these motors supposed to go 500K miles before they need a rebuild if well taken care of? I've already dumped $2,000+ in parts into this thing since I bought it a few months ago. With heads, studs, gaskets....it could be another $3,000+ on top of that. I think heads, studs, and gaskets will do just fine. Maybe some time in the next couple of years I will plan on pulling the motor to go through it.

At this point in time, I just want it to actually tow something with the thing for once.
 

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The problem is that eventually I have to draw the line somewhere. These things are like an endless rabbit hole. If you pull the motor to do the lifters, might as well pull the cam out and change it also. If you pull the cam, you have to pull the crank.....so might as well replace all of the rod and main bearings. If you are in it that far, might as well hone the cylinders and put new rings in.....on and on.

Aren't these motors supposed to go 500K miles before they need a rebuild if well taken care of? I've already dumped $2,000+ in parts into this thing since I bought it a few months ago. With heads, studs, gaskets....it could be another $3,000+ on top of that. I think heads, studs, and gaskets will do just fine. Maybe some time in the next couple of years I will plan on pulling the motor to go through it.

At this point in time, I just want it to actually tow something with the thing for once.
Not sure where you heard that but that is simply not true. You replace the lifters because they're a pretty high wear item. You don't even have to touch the lifters if you don't want. Certainly don't need to check bearings or anything unless it was knocking or had low oil pressure.

It's more like doing a water pump when replacing a timing chain. It's just a good idea.

If you've decided on leaving the engine in the truck, then just pull the heads and be done with it.
 

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You draw the line at lifters unless you see a damaged cam lobe. Plain and simple. You replace the lifters for cheap insurance.

As stated you don’t have to change them, it’s just a good idea. The only other parts you’ll need are a rear cover gasket, and a rear main seal. You’ll probably need a seal installer for that.
 

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The seal has a wear sleeve that needs to be pressed onto the crankshaft simultaneously. You can rent them for a couple hundred bucks. It sets the depth of the seal and wear sleeve correctly.
 
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