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Hey, I'm in Australia, and have bought myself a 'stolen and recovered' 2003 7.3 f250 manual. I was told the engine was buggered, however I got it running. It has a miss when cold, which seemed to clear up once up to operating temperature. You can hear the miss when cranking it over. A compression test confirmed no.3 with 0 compression. (90psi after some oil was put down there)

The compression for the engine was-
1 340psi
2 250psi
3 0 psi
4 280psi
5 220psi
6 230psi
7 240psi
8 300psi

definately rebuild time I guess, engine has 400,000 kms.

I don't know the size of the injectors, but they are not stock, it has a large custom intake, large custom exhaust. I tracked down the previous owner, and he told me the injectors were 30%.

I figure I should get them tested, and then work out the build from there. In Australia, a rebuilt short block is $17000. This is why I want to build it myself. I don't want to spend that kind of money for a stock bottom end.

I would like to have some input on how to build a reliable 500 hp engine. I have seen plenty of power strokes in Australia with around 400 hp on stock bottom ends. 500 hp is my number, I will do this entire build in this thread, so hopefully the input I can get, will get me through!!
 

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Project Shamu
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Get rid of the PMRs that are in it if you wanna make 500hp reliably. That should be first step, or high up on the list atleast
 

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Get rid of the PMRs that are in it if you wanna make 500hp reliably. That should be first step, or high up on the list atleast
What's a PMR?
 

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I figure I should get them tested, and then work out the build from there. In Australia, a rebuilt short block is $17000. This is why I want to build it myself. I don't want to spend that kind of money for a stock bottom end.

I would like to have some input on how to build a reliable 500 hp engine. I have seen plenty of power strokes in Australia with around 400 hp on stock bottom ends. 500 hp is my number, I will do this entire build in this thread, so hopefully the input I can get, will get me through!!
Do you have the tools and measuring devices necessary for rebuilding the engine?
I was faced with rebuilding mine, and I gave it to the machine shop to short-block.
 

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PMR: Powdered Metal connecting Rods
 

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PMR: Powdered Metal connecting Rods
Thanks, Tom!

I did not think they had the Powdered Metal Rods in the 99 - 2003 . . . Did they start putting them in, in 2003?
 

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Project Shamu
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They started in 01 as a test run, then when they figured out they worked fine, they put all the forged rods that they had into trucks, just to use up the rest of the inventory, then they were PMRs from there on out. There some more info out there stating what build numbers had PMRs and which had forged.
 

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Set of feeler gauges, straight edge, big and small torque wrench (ft/lb and in/lb to us non metric folks), the reassembly specs and don't be in a rush. The 7.3 is an interference engine, so If you're not changing deck height, compression ratio, stroke length, cam profile and you're using OEM forged rods (from the '97 and older motors), you don't need plasti-gauge. If they have to take more than .010" off the head, you MIGHT need custom length push rods and will have to reverify valve-to-piston clearance. However, you will need to rebalance the rotating assembly as the rod weight between PMR and forged is significantly different. You can get around this by running an OBS crank. If you've rebuilt an engine before, this one is no different, just a little tighter specs. Don't cheap out on a cherry picker, you will need minimum of 1000lb at full extension, but a cheapo harbor freight 2000lb engine stand works fine. Engine weighs ~1250 dressed. I did mine in my garage, and took my son and I a weekend for reassembly at a very comfortable pace. Including the tuning, new injectors, misc. upgrades, mistakes and a used set of heads, I rebuilt mine for $6200. Then grenaded the 4r100 a month later.
 
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