You will save money if you build it yourself and have a way to get cheap parts. Locate the nearest Parker Hydraulic store, they will have all the brass fittings you will need to pull everything off, as well as the hose and hose ends.
First off, quick lesson in hose sizing. Hose is measure in "dash" sizes and is broken down into 16ths of an inch as follows:
-10 hose (pronounced "dash ten hose") is the same as 5/8" hose (or 10/16" hence -10)
Second quick lesson. You will want to use "push lock" or "socketless connectors" on the end of the hose. These are very nice barbed ends that will insert into the hose and not require hose clamps to stay located. These do require special hose as well, which can be purchased at Parker as well. To install these fittings in the hose you will need to lubricate them w/a solution of dishsoap water. Do not use oil because it will not dry and the fitting will come apart when under pressure.
Third lesson. You will need to use 37* flare connectors. These are also known as JIC or AN fittings. Do not confuse these with the standard 45* flare parts you can buy at the hardware store, the two will not seal if you try to use them together. Parker will know these as JIC or 37* flare, AN is what they are know as to the race car mechanics.
With that out of the way, here is a run down of what you will need.
Tank:
You will need a pick up and a return. You can either modify the sending unit to use a -10 chunk of solid line in place of the factor pick up, or you can install a bulk head fitting in the bottom of the tank. Remember that this needs to clear debris and what not if you ever plan to go off road, so take that into account. The return can either go through the sending unit to a line that will dump it in the tank away from the pickup or through a bulk head fitting into the bottom of the tank.
Filtration:
You will need a pre pump filter. The Dahl 100 and 150 are both good options, but more expensive. If you do some searching you can get a couple generic filter bases and use standard over the road truck and heavy equipment filters. If you don't go w/the Dahl as youre only filter before the pump, you will need a couple filters. A 30micron or so filter/water seperator before the pump, and then a 4micron or less filter after the pump. The generic bases are usually around $20 or so, and the filters are around $15 a piece. The dahl runs $150ish depending on where you buy it.
Pump:
The aeromotive A1000 is the big dawg, they have a specific diesel rated one (it's black, and a lot about $100 more than the standard red). Supposedly after september of 06 they upgraded the standard red pump to also be diesel compatable. . .they just don't advertise it cause they make so much more on the deisel specific one. A set of super duty pumps in series is a cheaper alternative and is what Brian Thompson is using on his daily driver and making 540+- RWHP
Hose Needs:
You will need -10 supply to the pump. -8 from the pump to the engine works good. -6 works good for the routing on the engine as well as the return back to the tank. Some will say you need -8 for return to cut back on restriction, this is my thought: You put in a regulator to maintain the desired pressure, if the -6 line was too restrictive the pressure would be too high, but even w/-6line you need a pressure regulator. . .so the -6 return works just fine. You will also need some steel line to feed the rear passenger side fuel port. It's very close to the turbo and I didn't dare risk it w/rubber hose.
Regulator:
You need a regulator w/2 inlet ports and 1 outlet port for a fuel injected car so you can achieve youre 60-70psi fuel pressures.
Fittings:
This will depend on what all you run. The fuel ports in the heads are 1/8" pipe. Make sure you pay attention to the lines going into the heads, straight fittings will not work for all of them 45* fittings work very well in a lot of the locations. If you run hard lines to feed the rear ports on the head standard compression fittings work well to connect to the hard line, or you can get a 37* flaring tool and make the connections that way. You will also need a "wye" to split the fuel to each head.
System set up:
-You will run from the pick up of the tank to the prefilter/water seperator.
-From the filter/seperator to the fuel pump.
-From the fuel pump to the final filter.
-From the final filter to the distribution block (wye) to the motor.
-One line from the wye to the front (or rear) of each head.
-Lines from the other end of the heads to the fuel pressure regulator
-Line from the regulator all the way back to wherever you plan to return on the fuel tank.
Extra thoughts: The fuel will get warm from cycling through the head and being pumped so much. You will also be moveing a lot more fuel through the filters. Some prefer a fuel cooler on the return to help keep fuel temps down, its an added cost the performance benefits will be negligable but fuel pump life may be increased. Also, there is no baffle in the tank, so don't let the fuel tank get below 1/4 tank to keep from sucking air (this will also help keep fuel temps down).
For good pricing, contact The Nott Company (309) 699-4673. They are located in Peoria Il if you don't have a good source local to you. Get a list of the parts together that you'll need and let them know. Shoot me a PM if you have any questions.
