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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
It looks like a piece of casting dripped in the regulator from the factory and was never removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Whats the best way to prime the low pressure oil pump? Been cranking and cranking and still no base pressure...
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Unfortunately the best way was to pack the LPOP gears with some assembly lube. Other than that, I don't know of any easy way to assist it. Rigging up some tubing (to a container) off of the pressure regulator port might help.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Unfortunately the best way was to pack the LPOP gears with some assembly lube. Other than that, I don't know of any easy way to assist it. Rigging up some tubing (to a container) off of the pressure regulator port might help.
Thank you!
Got it started and it drove great! Put about 50 miles on it and it seems to be fine! but it did develop a leak on the o'ring to the intake, looks like I'm going to loosen the intake tomorrow and put a new o'ring. Thanks for all the help!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I'm back!!! LOL! So I loosened the intake and wedged up the intake to replace the bad o'ring, got everything together and now it won't start. It acted like it wanted to and also threw black smoke but but wouldn't start. It has plenty of low oil pressure and it started up perfectly before I changed the o'ring. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
VGT solenoid wire connected (sometimes if it is disconnected it is a rough start and rough idle, but every so often it can cause a no-start)?

FICM connectors connected?

All injector connectors on tight?

I believe pulling codes would probably point to your issue.
These are the codes I was able to pull:
P0282
P0279
P0276
P0273
P0270
P0267
P0261
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I agree. Check:
C1388A (X-1) Connector: Injector Control, Cyl. 1,4,6,7 (end plug)
C1388B (X-2) Connector: Injector Control, Cyl. 2,3,5,8 (Middle plug)

If the "catch" isn't broken on the connectors, they should snap in.
Thank you!
 

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It was just the center and end plug completely out. Those things are a task to put back in! But she runs.....
I've dealt with a few which kept falling out. Once, and only once, I replaced the whole connector by splicing a new pigtail into the harness....for all three FICM connectors. That wasn't fun. After that, I decided zip ties are the way to go! If yours don't click and lock into place, get some good, high-quality zip ties and secure them in place that way. It will save you some frustration down the road.
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I've dealt with a few which kept falling out. Once, and only once, I replaced the whole connector by splicing a new pigtail into the harness....for all three FICM connectors. That wasn't fun. After that, I decided zip ties are the way to go! If yours don't click and lock into place, get some good, high-quality zip ties and secure them in place that way. It will save you some frustration down the road.
Thank You!
 

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You can buy new connectors that can be installed by "re-pinning" the bad connector (not cut and splice).

I don't like zip ties very much because of the potential to rub and wear through wiring insulation.

I'm with you on the rubbing issue which is why I always put a rubber hose around em if they're near wiring. And you know, as many times as I have tried repinning a connector you'd think I'd be decent at it. Nope. I suck so bad I would prefer to re-wire half the time. lol I don't know what it is, but I usually wind up with half the pins not wanting to stay in place anymore.
 
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